I’ve got a nice turntable and an outboard phono section which takes me to line level, then what? Do I need special software? I figured I would take an rca to stereo mini to analog in on the pc.
This is a good program to record and edit any music from
your computer sound card. You may have to play with your line-in
level to get the best recording. The program has a level meter to
help you set the level properly. The program is good and is FREE.
You will need to output your turntable’s signal into an amplifier, unless you have one of those turntables that have a built-in amp…and make sure you GROUND your turntable. I have a tuner/amp which has a section at the back for grounding your turntable (to avoid the “humming”). Use the LINE INPUT of your soundcard.
I have converted a lot of vynils using my Audigy 2 + Cool Edit Pro with excellent results… Audacity is a good program as well, and it’s free.
I will recommend Wave Repair, a freeware/shareware program. The freeware mode supports the function of direct-to-hard-drive recording with accurate meters and clipping detection and the ability to split tracks in preparation for CDR burning. In the shareware mode, you have a great declicker and .wav editor which can zoom down to the sample level of a wave file… Unfortunately shareware Cool Edit is no longer available (now an expensive Adobe Audition program). Audacity is workable, but I much prefer Wave Repair… cheers, gamma1
And if you want to go wild hardwarewise, you can look at some m-audio sound card products. www.m-audio.com The 2496 Audiophile PCI card, the Firewire Audiophile interface or the USB Audiophile interface. These are upgrades to the common sound cards and are aimed at high-quality stereo sound. Another consideration is a new product from Behringer http://www.behringer.com/UCA202/index.cfm?lang=ENG the UCA202. Looks like a promising and cheap solution for a laptop. These products are available from sources such as Sam Ash, zzsounds, bhphoto, j&r, amazon, etc… I am considering one of the m-audio interfaces. Right now I use a Pioneer consumer CD recorder in my stereo system, drawback only records on “music” or “audio” CDs. the CD-RW disk it creates make for some really ugly quality scans, though they sound great!.. cheers, gamma1
Another interesting piece of hardware is the ART USB phono plus, http://www.artproaudio.com/ , look up under ARTcessories on home page. This looks like it would fill the bill and is now on my list of candidates to replace a standalone CD recorder. Available for about $90 shipped from several USA sources. Check out musiciansfriend, zzsounds, sweetwater, etc. Or do a google, dogpile or clusty search…
Turntable systems have to feed a good RIAA de-enfasis pre-amplifier before analog to digital coversion. Some soundcards provide built-in phono pre-amps. You can even find all kinds of DIY in the web, (like http://sound.westhost.com/project25.htm). If you’re planning to rip pre 1950 records (specially 78 rpm) you may have to aquire a special pre-amp that deals with other de-enfasis specifications, like ffrr, nartb, hmv, blumlein, etc. See http://www.rfwilmut.clara.net/repro78/repro.html#eq on the subject.
i learned how to do the conversion from this site 4 years ago…I still use the same method…i would imagine you would have to have a decent turntable w/ a preamp built in or somethin…i just use the basic…turntable-stereo(home)amp-to soundcard…w/ cool edit pro…voila!!!..
I just ordered this for $66.95 plus shipping from bhphotovideo.com, a reliable source (I have ordered camera stuff from them before). Before this, the cheapest price I’ve seen is $89.99 with free shipping from a couple of other sources…There is a difference though, compared to other sources. Most of the musicians’ gear websites offer a 30-60 day return policy whereas BH Photo offers only 14 days.
I have Xitel INport hardware that connects into my turntable amp and is a USB connection into the pc. I’ve then been using CFB software to rip. I’ve been running this for a couple of years to convert vinyl collection - before joining this forum and reading some of the other methods available.
Does anyone know how this method compares to the soundcard method for conversion?
That piece of hardware is similar in operation to the ART USB Phono plus, the M-Audio Firewire and USB Audiophile units, the Edirol USB stereo interface, and the Behringer interface (still unavailable in the US). I chose the ART USB unit because it’s portable (can use it with my desktop or laptop) it seems to be a quality unit and has an input volume control that can attenuate or add gain, which I believe (I’m still waiting to receive the unit) will interface with a wide variety of sources. I used to have a desktop “Soundblaster-compatible” sound card that overloaded with some sources coming from my stereo system. Instant clipping. I had to use an attenuator at the input to get it to work.
One good desktop PCI sound card is the M-Audio 2496. That would give you a first-class stereo input. A card like that used to cost several hundred dollars, now is less than one hundred.
I still find Wave Repair an unbeatable program for converting vinyl to digital. It has a nice recorder, a great .wav editor and an easy-to-use track splitter/cue sheet generator. cheers, gamma1
Thanks for suggestions - The Wave Repair sounds interesting as my current CFB software is a bit of a pain for track splitting at times. It tends to split tracks in a way that appears almost random and requires a bit of fiddling around
Wave Repair is a shareware with some limitations but the recording feature is fully operational in the freeware mode. See my decription and get the site link from one of my previous posts in this thread. If you do a lot of vinyl recording you might prefer this program – I have the fully enabled registered version (around $30??). Excellent declicker, manual or automatic. Easy .wav editing. BTW, I manually split the tracks by locating the song breaks and inserting “cue points” and later either split the tracks or create a .cue sheet and add CD text information. Then I load the .cue sheet into Burrrn, the CD text appears, and I BURRRN. cheers, gamma1
Just received this unit. Brief preview:
Unit is plug ‘n’ play with WinXP. Plug it in and windows detects 3 items. I plug the unit into the USB port of my laptop and connect the RCA In jacks to my stereo receiver Tape Out jacks. I start Wave Repair (my recording program, though many will use Audacity or something else). The Windows volume control is deactivated and the input volume is controlled by the volume control knob on the ART Phono Plus. I monitor levels from an LP record on my turntable, set the record level by viewing the meters in Wave Repair, start the record from the beginning and RECORD. I record the file directly to a USB thumb drive plugged into the other USB port on my laptop. After recording a large .wav file from the LP, I take the USB thumb drive to my desktop and in less than two minutes, I copy the .wav to the hard drive, ready for processing and then burning.
The ART unit has a “clipping” light on the front. It seems it is actually a clip warning light, flashing from green to red when the levels are close to or actually clipping. It flashes red sometimes when the Wave Repair meters measure less than zero Db.
My initial impression is positive (I do not use the phono equalizer on the ART unit so I won’t comment on that). It looks like this will take the place of my standalone Pioneer PDR-609 CD recorder. I will have more portability also. The unit itself is compact, with a metal case and rubber side and foot pieces which will not scratch anything. It also has optical in and out, and SPDIF digital audio in. I will probably try the optical out to connect to an optical in jack on my receiver, but I haven’t tried it yet.
Powered from USB port or external wall wart power supply (included).
It works. And it has a built-in mm phono section for those who may not have a phono section on their audio preamp/receiver.
Sound like it operates almost exactly the same as the Xitel INport USB system. Have fun playing around with it!
I just downloaded the Wave Repair trial software this weekend and have been using the crackle and noise reduction, equaliser and declicking functions on some old Ska recordings from 50s and 60, plus original (read low quality ) punk recordings from 1970s. Good results so far, although I am still learning the software. Many thanks for recommendation - it is better than my previous for wav files that need some work.
Also, the guy who wrote the software has a lot of info on his web page about recording from vinyl, and is really fair about giving you a proper free trial (rather that a limiter function trial). It is very likely that I wil buy the full version of this at the end of the trial.
This doesn’t seem like such a good idea after I got a few glitches in the .wav file – aaargh! I now record directly to the laptop hard drive and use the USB thumb drive only for transferring the file to the desktop. This adds a few minutes to the routine… Regards, gamma1
If you want to preserve the sound quality that comes from the turntable I would go with a Terratec, M-Audio,or another sound card with a built in phone circuit. eliminating the need for a external preamp. I use a Terratec DMX6 Fire with a flat frequency response built in preamp. Turntable grounded to the computer, and use DC Millenium software from www.enhancedaudio.com .
There are some very good tutorials on vinyl restoration at the EnhancedAudio web site also.
I have a laptop and just bought the Behringer UCA202, and want to record from my turntable through an amp. I have discovered that the Windows input level control is disabled, which means that I have no way of controlling recording level.
Does anyone else have one of these? Do you have the same problem?
Looks like you need to contact Behringer tech support to see if any of their software programs provide a solution–strange that one of their selling points is that “…There is no setup or special drivers neededâ€”simply plug the interface in a free USB port on your computer and get into the groove…” Obviously, they thought that you would have an external volume control. :a
One reason I chose the ART Phono Plus USB is that it has a nice volume control knob on the front of the unit that controls the input signal level. You can use the ART as a standalone phono section or just a line input if you have your own phono section. See my mini-review of the ART in this forum thread. The Windows volume control is also disabled with the ART.
Also, I highly recommend Wave Repair Shareware. It’s free to try and can be used as recording software in the FREEWARE mode.
If you can’t find a solution you should return the Behringer and try something else.
Maybe Prof. Honeydew will comment on the Xitel INport USB interface that he uses. Professor?
Also, this is about as cheap as you will find the ART: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=381598&is=REG&addedTroughType=search