How long do burners last? In the dvd days, a friend said they're only good for about 200 discs


#6

Why 200? With my current Samsung drive I have burned more than 2000.


#7

It saddens me to see the end of the DVD era. I have two Blu-Ray burners in each of my 3 machines and for the most part they are LG drives. I use them to create semi-permanent backups of the machines, backups of movies, or anything else that I decide to store on them. Back in the IDE days you were on top of the hill if you had Plextor drives in your box. Then Plextor along with everyone else started re-branding Lite-on or Pioneer drives and calling them their own. Now there are only one or two manufacturers left and who knows how long they will be around. Do you think that flash drives are going to be the replacement media?


#8

I remember back around 2008 or 2009, I was looking to buy a new Plextor drive for my then-new desktop computer. At the time, I learned that Plextor had already started rebadging LiteOn drives and that the old Sanyo chipset drives were no longer being manufactured. When I went shopping at nearby offline computer stores, I found that most of the non-LiteOn original Plextor drives were ones with the old IDE (PATA) inteface. At the time, I was unable to find a Sanyo chipset Plextor drive which had a SATA interface, at local offline computer shops.

My then-new desktop computer only had a SATA interface and the built in dvd drive turned out to already be a LiteOn rebadge. So I didn’t see any point in paying preminum Plextor prices for a LiteOn drive in disguise, when I already had a LiteON SATA drive.


#9

I have had several Lite-On drives too, but those are virtually non-existent now as well. On NewEgg all I see are LG, Pioneer, and ASUS Blu-Ray burners available. I think that the ASUS burner is a re-bandaged Lite-On drive, but I am not sure.

When I download software I generally burn it to a CD or DVD and put it in a jewell case in addition to storing it on my hard drive. That way I feel somewhat secure knowing that I have it readily available should I want to re-install the software. I know that I could put it on a flash drive, but it is too easy to erase the flash drive and too expensive to store on that media.

I guess I better stock up on Blu-Ray burners before they disappear or get so expensive that you can’t afford to buy them.


#10

Until this year or so, the Asus drw-24f1st dvd drives were LiteOn iHAS124 F drives in disguise. (IIRC, this was the “c” revision of drw-24f1st, over the past few years).

More recently, the “d” revision of the Asus drw-24f1st turns out to be an LG GH24NSD0 rebadge. I recently purchased one and noticed it was an LG and not a LiteOn rebadge. I discussed this briefly in the drw-24f1st thread on here.


#11

Hm, what was the advantage of last Sanyo-chipsets?

Sanyo were in the earlest 2000s state of the art, but later Sanyo gets beaten by many (Cheaper) chipset-manufacturers. SD2 was also a reason to buy non-Sanyo-writers.

MTK learned fast and was cheap, Renesas had the biggest customer in ODD-business, LG, so they beat many competitors. OTI and ALi disappeared at end of CD-RW-area, Panasonic was a short time competitor because of chipsets with LS-support. But my drives with Panasonic-chipsets were not good in writing-quality, especially the Benq 1670. Nexperia also disappeared, maybe becaus eof price? Good old Benq 1640/165x still are very good with lots of media


#12

I don’t know much about the final Sanyo chipset models of Plextor dvd drives.

I mainly used the classic Sanyo chipset Plextor drives for reading heavily scratched/damaged audio cd discs. They seemed to be very good at doing that.

LiteOn and other Mediatek chipset drives in those days, weren’t as good for dealing with scratched up audio cd discs.


#13

Fast forward to 2009-2010 or so, the subsequent LiteOn dvd drives seem to be almost just as good as the old Sanyo chipset Plextor drives for handling scratched/damaged audio cd discs.

For example, LiteOn drives could easily handle EMI released audio cds from the early->mid 2000s which had “copy control” drm which used deliberate bad sectors.


#14

I don´t know much about audio-protections, only remember that the Yamaha F1 and some Plextors were long time the best for ripping CD

Later on Liteon also do a good job, IIRC some tests of c´t-magazine. Found a test, the LH-20A1L was able to rip all protections which were tested. But the Asus 2014B1LT had same chipset and was the worst in this section


#15

At times I wonder if LiteOn has become the exclusive manufacturer/supplier of dvd drives for VinPower, where Vinpower has been writing their own custom firmwares and marketing them under brand names like “Plextor”, “Optiarc” , “PioData”, etc … for the copier/duplicator dvd drive market.

https://www.vinpowerdigital.com/main/CategoryList.aspx?SuperCategoryID=31&Keyword=Optical_Drives


#16

Interesting. I never came across Yamaha cd (or dvd) drives.

Looking through the drive offset database, it appears the Yamaha specific cd drives either have an offset of +733 or +117.

http://www.accuraterip.com/driveoffsets.htm

Not much else shows up for +117 offset, though quite a bit shows up for +733 offset which appear to be generic oem cd drives. Not obvious who was the manufacturer of these cdr drives with non-descript drive strings, nor what chipset was used.

The few dvd drives which show up with a +733 offset, were some models by LG and QSI:

LG -> GCC-4080N, GCC-4120B
QSI -> SBW-081, SBW-161, SBW-241

Doing some googling and examining ebay photos, these LG and QSI dvd +733 offset drives appear to slim internal drives (for a laptop) with 2002 manufacturing dates.

Anybody know what chipset was used for these ^ and Yamaha drives ?


#17

Huh, in this review it´s a Yamaha-chipset?


#18

Found an old thread from early February 2003, which discussed Yamaha officially exiting the cd drive market.

http://www.cdrlabs.com/forums/yamaha-discontinues-recorder-product-line-t9085.html

I get the impression some folks thought the quality of Yamaha cd drives were almost on par with then-current Plextor models.

This was way before my time. In those days, I had very little to no interest in computer cd/dvd drives.


#19

OK :wink:

The F1 (still own it) was not a perfect drive, the lack of writing speeds were disappointing, also the 44x-speed which was more <40x.

But burned over 50 CD-R in a row, over 1000 CD-Rs total. Drive still is in good shape, heavy, high build quality. AFAIK it was the first drive which beat all Audio-CD-protections for long time, even Plextor wasn´t able to do that at that time.

Special features like Advanced Audio Master Quality Recording, Disc@2, first with Mount Rainier

It was expensive, but I never thought it was not worth the price :slight_smile:

Yamaha had fans, that´s right. And it isn´t surprising, Yamahas old SCSI-drives were also known for good quality and were extreme reliable. I know ppl who burned more than 2000 CD-Rs with it, and because the writer were slow that means a big power on hours

The reason why Yamaha gave up was they won´t to decrease the quality to much like others did. And they know, only a few ppl want to spend more money for more quality.


#20

The only time I was ever really hardcore into computer cd drives, was briefly sometime around y2k or so when I tried ripping my entire audio cd collection into mp3 files. (I don’t remember which cd drive model it was in my then-curren computer, but I’m guessing it was probably a cheapo oem LiteOn or LG rebadge).

Though after ripping 100 or so cds, I came to the realization that I was largely wasting my time. It turned out I was hardly ever listening to any of my mp3s, and was still listening to my cds using a standalone cd player on my stereo system.

Most of my cds I hardly ever listened to in the first place. (ie. Too many lousy marginal albums from the 80s and 90s, which were largely forgettable). I didn’t really listen to any then-current pop/rock artists at the time in the early-2000s. So I didn’t buy many new cd titles, which might have potentially had extra drm. (It was only years later when I came to the realization that I had a few EMI released titles which had basketcase “copy control” drm, such as The Beatles “Let It Be … Naked” remix album, Iron Maiden “Dance of Death”, etc …).

So I didn’t see any point anymore with ripping/burning cds, after 2001 or so.


#21

Never wasted much time with Audio-CD-ripping :wink:

But the good thing is you could use a good MP3-codec and a good bitrate. Some ppl use 128kbit CBR :\


#22

Nowadays I couldn’t even be bothered anymore with encoding music to mp3. The few times I do rip some audio cds on the computer, I just leave them in the *.wav file format (ie. 16 bit stereo with 44.1 kHz sampling with no compression at all). If I don’t listen to these *.wav files often, I end up deleting them shortly thereafter.

Most of the time music doesn’t sound very good on my tiny cheapo computer speakers. For example, most of my Iron Maiden and Metallica cds sound really bad on them. So I end up playing these cds on my large standalone stereo system, which sounds a lot better than on the computer.


#23

When it comes to movie dvd discs, I only really rip dvds so that I can play many episodes/movies one after another on a computer conntected to my large tv screen in the background when I’m at home.

When it comes to tv shows, it gets somewhat annoying having to change discs after every four or five episodes.

For lousy sci-fi or action movies where I don’t have to pay close attention to scene/dialog details, it is easier to just let multiple movies play one another another on the computer in the background, than having to change discs between movies.

As far as I’m concerned, tv shows and movies are largely “background noise” when I’m at home. One day I’ll probably eventually move on to streaming.


#24

I never thought to keep track, but if I add up the CD-R’s, DVD-R’s, and BD-R’s I have used up from purchases over the years since I bought my Pioneer BDR-208D I have well exceeded 200 burns, and I am using them for data files, backups, etc. Perhaps your friend was referring to Movies burned to DVD-R or just low quality burners. My only problem with the 208 is I am going to have to replace the drawer belt sometime soon.


#25

Hell, if I only got 200 burns that would be a crap burner as while I don’t know exactly how many burns I got I am sure some of my burners are beyond that figure by a comfortable amount.

I basically have the following burners…

-HP CD Burner 8x4x32x - mfg date May 2000 (this does not like CD-RW discs but seems okay with CD-R the last I knew)
-Liteon 24102b CD-RW (IDE) - Mfg Date Dec 2001
-Liteon 1673s DVD (IDE) - Mfg date March 2005
-Liteon iHAS-324b - Mfg date May 2011 (this has special firmware on it for burning XBox360 backups but I have not used it much in years now)

those are currently not inside of my PC as I got a Sony Optiarc 7240s which is installed inside my main PC which, without checking, I would guess is roughly 2009 mfg date. this likely has more use than the iHAS-324B drive listed above.

with that said… I kind of assume the Liteon 24102b and the 1673s have the most use of those drives (with the 7240s in my 3rd spot) and both still work great as I just use them once in a while connected to a external adapter that converts to USB 3 interface.

for lossy audio… AAC (Apple using QAAC with Foobar2000) or Opus is where it’s at. MP3 is simply outdated given it requires noticeably more bit rate to achieve a certain level of quality.

plus, unless for some rare reason you device requires CBR, there is no reason to use CBR over the default VBR. some people use 320kbps CBR which is a waste of storage space as when it comes to MP3, v2 (190kbps) or v0 (245kbps) should be pretty safe and helps cut back on wasted space. but AAC or Opus @ 96kbps or 128kbps (tops) is all that’s needed for the majority of people as Opus is rated ‘very close to transparency’ at 128kbps and even 96kbps is ‘approaching transparency’ as I basically see 96kbps as the sweet spot when it comes to AAC/Opus since it’s quite efficient on bit rate and still offers quality sound. hell, with Opus I think going as low as 64kbps is usable for music although with AAC I would avoid going lower than 96kbps. for speech, with Opus, I can go as low as 13kbps with v1.3RC (with v1.2.1 I would avoid going lower than 14kbps).

basically AAC @ 96kbps beats MP3 (LAME) at noticeably higher bit rates and Opus is even better than AAC @ 96kbps based on hydrogenaud.io listening tests. plus, when someone is listening to music on-the-go with your typical set of headphones I am confident 96kbps is a solid all around choice for sound quality vs storage space as I think going beyond 128kbps with AAC/Opus is largely a waste of storage space where as with MP3, 128kbps (or so) is about the minimum I would consider using.

so unless someone must use MP3, it’s simply not worth using at this point in time.