How do Imation CD-Rs compare to other brands?

Hi there. I recently bought some Imation CDr’s. Can anyone tell me how this brand compares to the rest. Or can anyone direct me to a site where they do comparisons between the different brands of CDr’s?


I think you should read this thread:

and probably you can find more information in our CD-R(W) Media Forum

Thanx. I’ll check I was checking it out allready, but they don’t seem to mention Imation there. I’ll re-ask it there though. Thanx again

Originally posted by BlinC
Thanx. I’ll check I was checking it out allready, but they don’t seem to mention Imation there. I’ll re-ask it there though. Thanx again

That would be crossposting and against our rules.
Deleted the crosspost and moved this one to CD-R(W) Media Forum.

Most of the Imations I have gotten through CD-R trading the last 2 years have been made by CMC (Cheaply made Crap!) Magnetics.

I would really stay away from them for burning music or data you want to keep for a long, long time.

Like a year ago I bought two 24x 80min 100-cd spindles for 15 bux each from a local Microcenter. I like Imation with its surface, but evey once in every…um…20 cdrs burnt in, lets say CloneCD, it would have that medium error. Then I bought another hundred spindle from K-Hypermedia, no problems at all. Then bought some, which I am still using and have a large amount of, unbranded light-green dyed 80min cdrs that are suppose to be 32x for about the same $15 price, not one wasted cd. Maybe its because of the upgrade from 1.03 to 1.04 firmware for my Plextor but I’d rather not risk it unless its really cheap, like 20 or below.

Hope this helps

Imation = CMC Magnetics = crap.

My opinion at least.

For me I use these cheap media for temporary audio, mp3, or data only. I have a MD, and since I don’t have NetMD, 1x is really too long to record, so I use my 10x CDRW to burn either audio or mp3 cds, however not all CD, especially car audio, players can read it and its a pain to record, erase, record. So that’s where these cds come in, even if they last only a month, which I really doubt, I’m pretty sure I would have moved on, since my taste in music changes between hip-hop and techno and etc. Also ppl are always asking me for programs, games, apps, music, n etc, I don’t mind burning em CDs, but I don’t wanna use my expensive ones, so I use these cheap ones, which they probably will lose before they become defective. You see what I’m trying to say, even if the CDs are crap, they still have practical use. Still I don’t recommend Imation unless you get it really cheap.


imation or should i say CMC magnetics suck balls badly.
verbatim are the best when you record slowly eg. 4x 8x. never had a prob with em.:wink:

Yes, verbatim may be good for slow writing…but they are not good for high speed writing. :Z

Originally posted by OC-Freak
Yes, verbatim may be good for slow writing…but they are not good for high speed writing. :Z

whoever writes at really high speeds like 40x and above are morons. it thrashes the cd writer. whats the big rush anyway?

I never had good luck with Imation, they make my writer fall back to 20x (its minimum) near the end of the disc and even so comes out FULL of damaged sectors. Didn’t care to test for durability after this… This was 24x certified, I had bad luck with the 16x on my older 16x writer too.

Also, I hate to say even one off-topic word, but…
god of burning, do you underclock your processor? Same reasoning… Nowadays writers are made to work at top speeds and are discarding the slower speeds, my minimum speed is 8x.

i wouldnt have a clue if my processor is over or under clocked but i do know that overclocking drains the life out it.

LOL you don’t kill your processor if you know what you’re doing, which it appears you don’t. In many cases an overclocked processor runs @ the same temp or cooler than @ its rated speed with the stock heatsink and fan that comes in a retail CPU package.

If you use decent media that’s rated to burn at the speed your drive burns at… things work quite well and you don’t get errors most of the time. It also helps to have a drive that is compatible with a fair amount of media. Folks that OC their drives, overburn and burn at speeds faster than the rated speed shouldn’t be surprised that they get errors more often than not. If you play it by the book, things generally work out fine.

The internals in drives change as they get faster to allow for greater accuracy @ faster speed when it makes financial sense (greater number of failures, returns based on performance, increased number of contacts to support, product longevity etc…). In addition, in most cases, these components have to be beefed up to handle the additional stresses of the faster speeds and heat produced.

Imation, CMC = :Z
Taiyo Yuden, Ritek, Mitsui = :bow:

Morons huh? You up past your bedtime all cranky-like, typing by flashlight or has Mommy not put you to bed yet? Guess I’d rather be a moron than an ignorant kid.

Overclocking doesn’t really matter if you only do it by increasing the multiplier. But its completely different if you do it by increasing the FSB. For my old P3 533mhz Intel 810e pc, since the multiplier was locked, I tried to overclock the FSB from 133 to 147, hardly much improvement in speed rite? Well as it turns out, thank god I only had a USB CDRW, but I killed two CD-ROM drives over a short time span. The lesson is overclocking your FSB will also overclock also EVERY device on your pc, it kills IDE drives.

Hope y’all heed my warnings

Again getting back to my comments of folks not knowing that they’re doing, there is a perfect example.

Your AGP and PCI buses operate on a divider of the FSB that allows the AGP bus to work @ 66MHZ and PCI @ 33MHZ. If you have a 133MHZ bus, the AGP divider is 1/2 and the PCI divider is 1/4.

When you increase the front side bus speed and your motherboard has limited multipliers available, you run the AGP and PCI bus faster than spec. AGP components are generally more resilient to a higher bus speed than PCI components. The majority of PCI components don’t like being run faster than spec, siince they were designed to operate @ 33MHZ, and you can burn them out or get back a large number of errors. Even running 2MHZ over the bus speed might not work for some components. This isn’t the fault of the components, its the ignorance of the user.

The trick is to buy a motherboard with a chipset that supports a fair number of multipliers. When you do, you can overclock the FSB fairly high and not worry about much because at a couple key overclocks the buses will be in spec or very near (+1mhz)… it can even be under depending on the multiplier and FSB.

Several motherbard manufacturers indicate the PCI and in many cases the AGP bus speeds when you manually select the FSB… so for example you will see 145/38/76 (FSB/PCI/AGP). My only advice if you are amazed that you burn stuff out after selecting a FSB that provides you with the information above… don’t breed.

Or you can do as horsey-boy says and unlock your chip if you’re able to. That allows you to increase the multiplier but still run the FSB @ spec, which determines the chip speed. For example, Athlon XP1800 = 1.53GHZ. 133MHZ FSB * 11.5 multiplier). If I unlock the CPU and bump the multiplier up to 13 with a 133MHZ bus, I get a clockspeed of 1.73GHZ, but I don’t have to worry about running my bus speeds out of spec since I only messed with the multiplier, not the FSB.

The only performance issue when playing with the multiplier is that it does not yield as great of a performance improvement as changing the FSB.

hey poof, i mean tazdevl,
stop getting off the subject, this is a cdrw media forum, not a furom to overclock your processor.

by the way, you ARE taking risks by overclocking your processor!

Wee poofer, just wake up from your nappie-poo? Or did mommy wake you up?

I actually did address the question and also spent time correcting an ignorant kid and another guy that have no idea what they are talking about.

If I remember correctly, you were the one that made an incorrect statement about overclocking in the first place. Secondly, if you want to make statements about something, make sure you know what you’re talking about.

Perhaps you should stay off the forums unless you need to ask a question… you don’t seem to add any value and your lack of knowledge is rather apparent.

FYI these days, yields on most processors manufactured are good enough that if you slowly ramp up your speeds, you wont blow your chip out.

If you want to remain ignorant, I can’t help you.

It’s the idiots that go for a 500MHZ increase without properly burning in their system, checking bus speeds, using a stock coolers and in general just being a fool that risk their system. Enough information is out there that if someone wanted to learn how, they could find the information rather easily.

Oh, my, now a discussion about overclocking suddenly pops up…

GoB: Um, I meant “underclocking” as opposed to “nominal-speed” and not to “overclocking”. I don’t overclock as it does heat up more in my case, and I’m pretty marginal temperature-wise, but I run mine at the speed it is rated at, I compared running, say, your 1GHz and 1GHz and not 800MHz, to running a 32x writer at 32x and not, say, 16x.

By the way, underclocked PCI/AGP buses are also less stable than within spec, 150/30/60 is much less stable than 166/33/66, but that’s outside the range of this forum, so let’s return to the media discussion, please.

Could both of you please be a little bit more polite? Thanks.

Nope, he doesn’t deserve it. Too many dumb kids running around that need to be corrected.

He’s more than welcome to PM me and I can further his education since it seems he has a lot to learn.

Those are pretty low bus speeds and you are correct, many components would be unstable @ that speed. Funny though, some components have no problem being OC’d or underC’d, others don’t like it if you go +/-1MHZ out of spec. Kind of like OCing CPUs. But if you’re smart about it, there’s always a way to work things out.