How can i tell i need to reburn my DVDs?

i recently started a thread about how fast i should burn some of my DVDS at until i found out that my dvd-r labelled TTH02 suck :

so now i am stuck with a lot of burnt data on these DVDs(MAINLY video and some data) and i need to buy some better discs to reburn them to

how do i do a scan? and what are the MAIN things i should look for?

i am willing to provide scans of this TTH02 from discs that were burnt a year or 2 ago and those that were burnt a few days ago and am looking for assistance in differentiating them and whether they are of good quality or i need to reburn them ASAP

im so paranoid that a lot of video discs my dad used to backup his VHS and miniDV tapes are screwed.
^^ will they appear any different visually if they start to degrade??


Use nero cdspeed to scan the disks, its a free program, just google it. I’ve never heard of those media but, most CDFreaks only use Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden media.

Learning to read/understand the CD/DVD Speed output is the harder bit. Its taken me a while to learn what are problems and when trends are starting.
What I do now with every disk I make (that is important to me) is that I take a CDSpeed capture of the burn and then a 4x and 12/16x (my Lite0n has stopped working at 16x ??? in the last few days but that is another thing) quality test, I also do a TRT but it is only kept if there is a problem.

This gives me a point to work from in the future. As for the media you have and want to test you cant see what the quality of the burn was so a disk that could ‘look’ bad (has got high numbers) could just be like that from the start. Dont get me wrong the aim is for low numbers, but there will always be [I]numbers or errors[/I], I have some disks that dont look so good but were like that from the off and have no problems and work in everything I have.

You need to start in the read first threads in the Media Testing/Identifying Software sub forum, its not like there is a magic tool that will say ‘that is good’, or @this disk has rot replace in 6 weeks’ :smiley: its something you need to learn to read from your testing drive[s] and the tools that give you the info.

To use CDSpeed, I need to have a burner which is capable of giving scan results, right ? I’ve been trying to scan with my GSA H42N but some of the tabe (Start button) are grey out. In this case, what is the next best option to ascertain the quality of the scan ? Thanks !

You have the asus 1814BL right? I have this too and it can scan. Before anyone acts like an idiot and says it’s not reliable, shut up because it uses the liteon mediatek chipset, so it should be fairly reliable. Set your scan speed to 8x so you are not waiting all day and do some scans and post here - we can give you hints on what to look at and what the general idea is about your scans :slight_smile:

Do you really think it’s necessary to insult people in advance, just in case anyone want’s to contradict you?!? :eek: :disagree:

Should I say it after they contradict me instead? :flower:

One thing to note about the ASUS is that it may show higher errors. No need to worry though, they don’t show that high on liteons. Post results here, if you have a liteon, you could use that instead but asus is ok if thats all you have.

in cd speed there are a lot of options. i set the read speed to 8x , but which mode do i use, scanDisc or Disc Quality?

Disc quality is the one you want, but it’s not really an [I]actual[/I] measure of quality so don’t take any of the results too seriously.

ok so i jsut did 2 scans. both have the same contents, one my friend burned for me with his SONY drive and the other with my older Pio 107. Can you tell me what differences i should look for?

ps. both are on SAME media TDK 8x TTG02 around 1 - 1.5 years ago?


Wow, [I]assuming[/I] your Asus drive is reporting in a useful manner, that is quite a difference in results! :bigsmile:

Are the TTG02 from exactly the same batch of discs? The scans are either showing extreme variability of TTG02 [I][B]or[/B][/I] the difference optimal writing strategy can make to results IMO.

Asus reports with higher PIE in my short experiences with the drive - so that disc is not so bad as it looks - the clumps of PIF are worrying though.

My opinion is that Pioneer drives are superior to many other drives, your scan of the pioneer burn shows it’s a better burn than the sony. The PIF clumps even on the pioneer are still a tiny bit worrying though. Is there any sign of unburnt spots on the disc, usually caused by dust on the disc prior to burning? You can see if there is by holding the disc under a very strong light source.

not sure if in same batch :stuck_out_tongue:

but which is better?

anyone explain the PI errors and PO errors briefly?

and what should be the MAIN factor, ie i see both have a quality score of 99 but the PI/PO errors of that burnt by the Sony drive are vastly different

ok which graph shows the PIF clumps and what do “clumps” look like?

i inspected the pioneer disc and yes i see a few spots, like 3. they look like dust, but cant be rubbed off so its inside the disc. im assuming they are waht u are talking about.

so any conclusion drawn between these discs?

which is better and why?

I guess the Sony U14A is an old 4x drive with NO support for 8x or newer media unless crossflashed to 8x?

The Pio seems to love these though, except for the PIF clump at the end that could well be caused by dust or scratches… :frowning:

Don’t trust quality scores. Nero CD-DVD Speed has a bug because it misunderstands PIF reported by ASUS drives as POE and therefore does not have a quality score scale for it.

Well, PIE is the top blue coloured errors. PIF is the bottom green coloured errors.

It’s better to have low errors of both but PIF is worse to have than PIE. So your first burn with the Sony done by your friend is worse in every way, both PIE and PIF. However, do not take this super seriously and start throwing discs out just based on scans, the scan of the sony burn may still work perfectly in your players, thus there is no need to bin it.

The pioneer as you can see is lower for all types of errors. The clumps I talk about with both scans are when there’s a group of PIF (see the green chunks in the graphs). Near the end of the Pioneer burn you can see a couple chunks of PIF. This is usually caused by dust. Now the sony burn has PIf clumps throughout most of the disc, this is more likely to be caused from a poor burn.

The pioneer burn is better.

EDIT: oops forgot about the asus reporting POE like KG said. Either way, you want to see less of them and that’s what the pioneer has :iagree:

EDIT2: Also, since your drive does not report jitter, I doubt there’s any harm to scanning @ the max speed of 12x. Save yourself some time :wink:

The Pioneer scan is excellent upto ~3.7GB, the clumping of PIF reported being most likely caused by the spots mentioned (assuming they occur on the disc’s outer edge).

The Sony scan by comparison is horrible, but if it works in your drives for now, it does not practically matter at this point.

Unfortunate that you were not able to scan these 2 discs when they were originally written, as the Sony scan would have been interesting to see :slight_smile:

sweet. so i now am qutie confident that my dvds arent TOOO bad…

yeh both discs still read fine in my computer, no worries at all.

what about the quality rating? should i take taht into account

also WHEN should i reburn a dvd? like what signs(errors/scores) show that i should reburn it?

I doubt there could be much variance between when it was written and now since TTG02 is said be to pretty stable over time.

Here’s a scan of my MCC03RG20 verbatim 16X DVD-R. It’s a fine burn, ASUS shows higher PIE errors, but nothing to worry about since the disc plays fine and TRTs good and also scans well in my liteon. So it might not matter if you get high PIE errors, as long as the PIF stays reasonably low.

does quality score mean anything?