Help Finding a Dvd/cd Burner

vbimport

#1

Hello ! I hope this is right place to post this i have been having problems trying to burn some backups on my modded ps1.

My ps1 seems to be very picky about how the disks get burned, i have very old backups from the 90’s they still read flawlessly , i bought verbatim branded disks hoping that would fix the problem but seems like my ps1 doesn’t read at all :frowning: (disk reads fine on pc)

I’m using a disk burner included in my old acer laptop…i was thinking maybe thats the issue? is there a good burner for these kinda things?

I also have a old lg cd burner from 2003 on my midtower pc…i can read disks no problem but i cant burn them so maybe its dead? or maybe driver issues ? help me please ahah im desperated ahah i’ve wasted a couple disks :o

Thanks in advance


#2

Are you sure its related to the burn quality? Verbatim AZO CD-R’s quality varies depending on batch and country of manufacture, however their burn quality should be similar on most modern desktop burners. Laptop burners are generally bad, as are old 2003 burners on modern media, and that may be your problem. Try any modern CD/DVD burner you can find.

But in my opinion this is an issue with the disk type. Those 1990s disks you have are probably cyanine and your PS1 was made during a time when mostly cyanine CD-R’s were used so its laser works best with recordable media with this dye type. Verbatim uses Azo or Phthalocyanine dyes depending on the type you purchased. The only current manufacturer of cyanine CD-R media is (was) Taiyo Yuden/JVC. Their CD-R’s are also the highest quality you can buy right now. You should purchase and try their CD-R’s, if you can’t find real TY (they ceased production last year), CMC Magnetics manufactures disks with that same dye under the CMC pro brand.

If you’re in the US Rima.com has CMC pro’s for a decent price: http://www.rima.com/prod/1162.html

It could however also be a problem with the PS1 being unable to read 80min CD-R’s, as the standard discs in the 1990s were 74min, however I’ve heard of people using 80min CD-R’s without issues on PS1’s. I can’t recall now if I’ve ever tried CD-R’s on my original (1995) PS1 so unfortunately I can’t speak from personal experience.

As an alternative, if you can’t get it to work. You could simply avoid using the old modded PS1, and use an emulator on a PC. PS1 emulators (epsxe, pcsx1 etc.) run easily on any decent PC or laptop. And you’ll save about $70 on buying TY/CMCpro CD-R’s + a modern burner as well.


#3

Thanks for the quick reply :slight_smile:

Well…The verbatim i bough it don’t mention any azo so maybe not the right ones? Hmm i took the time to look at the actual old disks , that work fine on my ps1 most of them are 74min disks as you mention , lots of them are teac or kodac branded , but i also have 800min disks that work fine on it…such as emtec, phillips brand so i don’t think 800 min disks is the issue…

Either way i think im gonna try to buy a new dvd burner , but which brand i should go? asus? lg? i used to have lite on…they were great , but not sure if they still sell those ?

Yeah i could go emulation route i guess, i actually have some ps1 games that i bought for my psp they are great but some games requires r2 and l2 buttons so it’s kinda not playable :frowning: , and after i hooked up my ps1 with rgb/scart cable to my big led tv i was amused:P looks so clear and sharp , yeah i could hook up a computer to my tv and have superior image quality but i don’t feel like bring the whole big tower just to play, also i don’t have a controller for pc :rolleyes:

Edit: i live in europe so if i could find those disks in a european store would be great

Again Thanks for the reply!


#4

[QUOTE=bernaxl;2780057]Thanks for the quick reply

Well…The verbatim i bough it don’t mention any azo so maybe not the right ones? Hmm i took the time to look at the actual old disks , that work fine on my ps1 most of them are 74min disks as you mention , lots of them are teac or kodac branded , but i also have 800min disks that work fine on it…such as emtec, phillips brand so i don’t think 800 min disks is the issue…[/QUOTE]

Check the data side of the disks. Is it green/blue or gold/light green? If it’s the latter then they are Phthalocyanine and if they worked in your PS1 then the problem isn’t the dye, or at least not the basic dye type (there are variations of P-Cyanine eg. Ultragreen MX but that’s going beyond this topic).

If the Verbatim discs you bought don’t say AZO on the package (and data side is light green vs light blue) then its a rebranded CMC or Ritek if its made in Taiwan/China or MBIL if its made in India. The former 2 are pretty decent by the way, the Indian ones vary in quality, some batches are good, others not so much.

Also have you tried burning a simple Audio CD and testing it on the PS1? Does it not play either or does this problem occur only when trying to play a game? You should certainly try this, if it doesn’t work I can see if I have time to burn a few Audio CD-R’s and test them on my PS1, maybe my discs will work and I can recommend you some media type. But I don’t have a modchip so has to be Audio CD.

[QUOTE=bernaxl;2780057]
Either way i think im gonna try to buy a new dvd burner , but which brand i should go? asus? lg? i used to have lite on…they were great , but not sure if they still sell those ?[/QUOTE]

I’ve used LG burners and I have had pretty good results with them however I’m a bit hesitant to recommend you them as a whole since there is so much variation in models. But if you can find LG GH82N (HP OEM) that’s what I use on my main PC with good results atm. Optiarcs used to be really good but they aren’t manufactured anymore and most of the old stock has vanished as well (well I could tell you stores in USA that still have some new old stock, but it’ll cost you $100+ with shipping/import tax… you could get a used one though?).

Lite-On is probably your best option if you wanna buy a current off-the-shelve drive for a decent price. Order an iHAS124, its like $10 and it’s a pretty good burner and easy to find anywhere. Also a good scanning drive. And if you’re (really) lucky you may even get shipped a new old stock W model which is actually an Optiarc inside, although 99% chance you will get the newer F/FU models which are Lite-On and are good.

[QUOTE=bernaxl;2780057]
Edit: i live in europe so if i could find those disks in a european store would be great [/QUOTE]

Where in Europe are you? If there are stores that specialize in optical media storage in your country then those will usually have a wide selection of TY media. I don’t really know stores in continental Europe, I can help you if you’re in UK or Northern Europe.

P.S. A bit offtopic but if you wanna resurrect your old 2003 CD burner it may be as simple as opening it up and wiping the laser with some isopropyl alcohol (or just water/cloth if you’re careful). Usually that will solve hardware issues, although it could also have to do with driver/software compatibility if you’re on a system newer than XP. Doesn’t make much sense as it probably won’t burn any new media very well but may be a fun thing to do if you’re bored/on a budget. Before you do it google the burn error your software gives you so know what the issue is. And don’t turn it on without the cover on unless you wanna lose your eyesight!


#5

Check the data side of the disks. Is it green/blue or gold/light green? If it’s the latter then they are Phthalocyanine and if they worked in your PS1 then the problem isn’t the dye, or at least not the basic dye type (there are variations of P-Cyanine eg. Ultragreen MX but that’s going beyond this topic).

It’s kinda green i think.

If the Verbatim discs you bought don’t say AZO on the package (and data side is light green vs light blue) then its a rebranded CMC or Ritek if its made in Taiwan/China or MBIL if its made in India. The former 2 are pretty decent by the way, the Indian ones vary in quality, some batches are good, others not so much.

On imgburn they report being from india

Also have you tried burning a simple Audio CD and testing it on the PS1? Does it not play either or does this problem occur only when trying to play a game? You should certainly try this, if it doesn’t work I can see if I have time to burn a few Audio CD-R’s and test them on my PS1, maybe my discs will work and I can recommend you some media type. But I don’t have a modchip so has to be Audio CD.

I need more disks but i can try out later :slight_smile:

I’ve used LG burners and I have had pretty good results with them however I’m a bit hesitant to recommend you them as a whole since there is so much variation in models. But if you can find LG GH82N (HP OEM) that’s what I use on my main PC with good results atm. Optiarcs used to be really good but they aren’t manufactured anymore and most of the old stock has vanished as well (well I could tell you stores in USA that still have some new old stock, but it’ll cost you $100+ with shipping/import tax… you could get a used one though?).

Lite-On is probably your best option if you wanna buy a current off-the-shelve drive for a decent price. Order an iHAS124, its like $10 and it’s a pretty good burner and easy to find anywhere. Also a good scanning drive. And if you’re (really) lucky you may even get shipped a new old stock W model which is actually an Optiarc inside, although 99% chance you will get the newer F/FU models which are Lite-On and are good.

I prolly i will go for a lite on since i had one in the past , they cost a bit more here in europe but that’s the usual thing where comes to pc hardware, european prices are always jacked up :expressionless:

Where in Europe are you? If there are stores that specialize in optical media storage in your country then those will usually have a wide selection of TY media. I don’t really know stores in continental Europe, I can help you if you’re in UK or Northern Europe.

Portugal, when i mean European stores it could be online stores, i have no problem buying online…i just want to buy inside of EU to avoid custom strikes :rolleyes:

P.S. A bit offtopic but if you wanna resurrect your old 2003 CD burner it may be as simple as opening it up and wiping the laser with some isopropyl alcohol (or just water/cloth if you’re careful). Usually that will solve hardware issues, although it could also have to do with driver/software compatibility if you’re on a system newer than XP. Doesn’t make much sense as it probably won’t burn any new media very well but may be a fun thing to do if you’re bored/on a budget. Before you do it google the burn error your software gives you so know what the issue is. And don’t turn it on without the cover on unless you wanna lose your eyesight!

Actually already did that before creating this thread , the drive outside was pretty yellowed but inside was super clean looked like new somehow…anyways i tried to clean it…but the problem was still there…the jumper was set to slave (its a old ATA drive, luckily my motherboard still supports ata and sata) and i tried to set it to master didn’t do anything different, i still think could be a software issue maybe …because when i was burning buffer wouldn’t go up…and after burning the disks any device couldn’t read the disk in fact my computer explorer froze it because of that


#6

It’s possible that your Moser Baer (aka Moser Baer India, abbreviated to MBI) discs are not quite right for the PS1. As aztekk said, when it comes to general use, they can be good & they can be bad.

The closest I think you can get is some of the remaining JVC Taiyo Yuden CD-R (or maybe new CMC Pro powered by TY CD-R). You might still have issues, in which case trying to find Verbatim AZO CD-R (maybe finding Verbatim DataLifePlus CD-R), or old stock of older, slow-speed 74 minute media, will help.

And as you said, maybe a different drive will help, too.


#7

[QUOTE=bernaxl;2780081]the drive outside was pretty yellowed but inside was super clean looked like new somehow…anyways i tried to clean it…but the problem was still there…the jumper was set to slave (its a old ATA drive, luckily my motherboard still supports ata and sata) and i tried to set it to master didn’t do anything different, i still think could be a software issue maybe …because when i was burning buffer wouldn’t go up…and after burning the disks any device couldn’t read the disk in fact my computer explorer froze it because of that[/QUOTE]
Have you tried using another 80-conductor IDE cable to root out the cable itself? Is the PATA channel in IDE mode?

I’m still using a motherboard with native PATA (as well as SATA) support. :slight_smile: