[QUOTE=bernaxl;2780057]Thanks for the quick reply
Well…The verbatim i bough it don’t mention any azo so maybe not the right ones? Hmm i took the time to look at the actual old disks , that work fine on my ps1 most of them are 74min disks as you mention , lots of them are teac or kodac branded , but i also have 800min disks that work fine on it…such as emtec, phillips brand so i don’t think 800 min disks is the issue…[/QUOTE]
Check the data side of the disks. Is it green/blue or gold/light green? If it’s the latter then they are Phthalocyanine and if they worked in your PS1 then the problem isn’t the dye, or at least not the basic dye type (there are variations of P-Cyanine eg. Ultragreen MX but that’s going beyond this topic).
If the Verbatim discs you bought don’t say AZO on the package (and data side is light green vs light blue) then its a rebranded CMC or Ritek if its made in Taiwan/China or MBIL if its made in India. The former 2 are pretty decent by the way, the Indian ones vary in quality, some batches are good, others not so much.
Also have you tried burning a simple Audio CD and testing it on the PS1? Does it not play either or does this problem occur only when trying to play a game? You should certainly try this, if it doesn’t work I can see if I have time to burn a few Audio CD-R’s and test them on my PS1, maybe my discs will work and I can recommend you some media type. But I don’t have a modchip so has to be Audio CD.
Either way i think im gonna try to buy a new dvd burner , but which brand i should go? asus? lg? i used to have lite on…they were great , but not sure if they still sell those ?[/QUOTE]
I’ve used LG burners and I have had pretty good results with them however I’m a bit hesitant to recommend you them as a whole since there is so much variation in models. But if you can find LG GH82N (HP OEM) that’s what I use on my main PC with good results atm. Optiarcs used to be really good but they aren’t manufactured anymore and most of the old stock has vanished as well (well I could tell you stores in USA that still have some new old stock, but it’ll cost you $100+ with shipping/import tax… you could get a used one though?).
Lite-On is probably your best option if you wanna buy a current off-the-shelve drive for a decent price. Order an iHAS124, its like $10 and it’s a pretty good burner and easy to find anywhere. Also a good scanning drive. And if you’re (really) lucky you may even get shipped a new old stock W model which is actually an Optiarc inside, although 99% chance you will get the newer F/FU models which are Lite-On and are good.
Edit: i live in europe so if i could find those disks in a european store would be great [/QUOTE]
Where in Europe are you? If there are stores that specialize in optical media storage in your country then those will usually have a wide selection of TY media. I don’t really know stores in continental Europe, I can help you if you’re in UK or Northern Europe.
P.S. A bit offtopic but if you wanna resurrect your old 2003 CD burner it may be as simple as opening it up and wiping the laser with some isopropyl alcohol (or just water/cloth if you’re careful). Usually that will solve hardware issues, although it could also have to do with driver/software compatibility if you’re on a system newer than XP. Doesn’t make much sense as it probably won’t burn any new media very well but may be a fun thing to do if you’re bored/on a budget. Before you do it google the burn error your software gives you so know what the issue is. And don’t turn it on without the cover on unless you wanna lose your eyesight!