Hard drive constant spin up/down

came back to my pc (2nd in sig) after a couple of hours or so (left it burning an image on the external 108) moved the mouse to turn the monitor back on (this machine is set not to go into standby mode or to turn off the hard disks all ive done is set it to turn the monitor off after 20mins if i forget) and the cursor moved then got stuck then moved then got stuck then i heard the hard drive spin up and down constantly until i turned it off, turned it back on and it started doing the same so i pulled the machine out took the side off and tried again and all was fine, the machines running ok now, this hard drive never holds important data i just use it as a burning/ripping machine tbh, also S.M.A.R.T. monitor doesnt appear to show anything odd and the drive doesnt make any odd noises.

anybody had a similair experience? how long did the drive last for afterwards?

i believe you meant your heard a single click each time most hard drives make a single click when being turned on/off its possible the hard drive isnt at fault , when having unstable psu voltages it may cause it get speedfan from here take a screenshot and use “manage attachments” button or upload to imageshack and ill see if all good , also check the hard drive with data lifeguard diagnostic burn it as image with nero and dont worry when the screen will go blank after youll boot from it its normal youll see the license agrement after about 10 seconds

heres info on the options of dlg diagnostic
* SELECT DRIVE - Always choose this option first, as it determines which drive you will be working on.
* QUICK TEST - This option tests your drive quickly for any major physical problems. (Please note: Although this option is safe and does not alter the data on your hard drive, Western Digital recommends that you have a current backup of your data).
* EXTENDED TEST - This option checks your drive thoroughly and it can repair any correctable errors. (Please note: Although this option is safe and does not alter the data on your hard drive, some data loss may occur, depending on the errors found and the errors corrected. Western Digital recommends that you have a current backup of your data).
* WRITE ZEROS TO DRIVE - The Write Zeros option, wipes any and all data off your drive. This option used when your data is no longer usable or recoverable. If you no longer need any data from your drive and would like to start over, run this option to set your drive to an as new condition. NOTE: Please make sure that you have selected the correct drive to perform this function on as once ran, no data will be recoverable.
* VIEW TEST RESULTS - You can see the results of the test you just performed
* PRINT TEST RESULTS - Test results can be printed with this option. USB printers are not supported
* LOG FILE OPEN/CLOSE - You can access the log file which is generated automatically
* ENTER AND PRINT RMA INFORMATION - Information pertaining to each drive tested can be customized and printed with this option.
* HELP - Brief descriptions of each option in addition to explanations of error codes are available in this option.
* QUIT - Reboot your system once you have completed the selected tasks

edit dlg diagnostic link fixed

Hey Mr Brownstone Look Here. Not exactly the same, but close and the drive only lasted long enough for me to pull the data off of it. I tried every test and every remedy but it was screwed. After a short while it did the constant spin up/down.

I use mbm5 and all voltages seem within normal limits except the +12v seems to fluctuate between 12.46v and 12.56v but the others are stable, the noise sounded like one of those electric shock heart things where it spins up then you hear a click then down again then up and a click something like that, im just gonna run this drive until it dies as i say theres nothing important on here just an OS, some backup files that are also backed up elsewhere and thats about it, i will try that data lifeguard out tonight thanks.

considering upto 5% higher is allowed that 12v doesnt look so bad , anyway motherboard sensors arent 100% accurate and its possible that the reported voltage is somewhat higher then it really is you might be surprised if youll check with a multimeter , you said they they seem to be at “normal limits” but im curious whats the +3.3/+5 voltages?

+3.3v = +3.34v
+5.00v = +4.90/+4.93v

this is according to mbm5, everest is showing an exact +5.00v and +12.22v/+12.29v

ill see if i can borrow a multimeter from college next week :slight_smile:

those looks fine , i tend to believe everest cuz its newer mbm is preety much history wasnt updated for about a year , anyway in my opinion speedfan is the most reliable software for temperature/voltages it supports tons of sensors and it gets updated alot (about every 2 months) , heres guides on how to test psu with multimeter just incase you dont know Guide1 Guide2

just ran the quick test found no errors so running the extended test now gonna take 40 mins :frowning: no worries as im finished with this machine for today anyway :slight_smile:

i reckon it might be linked to the controller card somehow, a few weeks ago after i came back from a week away i turned the machine on and it couldnt detect the drive until the third reboot.

thanks for that, next time i re-install ill try that speedfan out

Crap, this just started happening with my 200GB Maxtor DiamondMax 10 HD and its only 13 months old :a

Well, I think it still could be the PSU. A lot of mobos measure the 12v rail from the CPU 12v rail, and if the PSU has dual 12v rails (dunno about Hiper 580w), it’s possible that the 12v rail that powers the drives is crapping out. :doh: So, I’d measure one of the molex plugs just to be sure that’s not the problem. It could be the controller card, or the drive itself, especially if it’s not crashing. Usually, power problems bad enough to cause a drive to spin up and down, will crash the machine. Especially considering that usually the second 12v rail only powers the CPU on the P4 12v plug. They might have that running both the mobo and the CPU though, and the PCI-E graphics plug, and the molexes on the other 12v rail. This is all assuming that this PSU has dual 12v rails. I dunno, you’ll have to figure out which plugs go to what rail. If it’s not a PSU problem, make sure that the molex plug on the circuit board on the drive doesn’t have a cold solder joint. I had a hard drive that spun up and down like you’re describing (but the machine would BSOD), and it was a bad solder joint @ the molex plug on the drive. I touched it up with a little solder, and it ran PERFECT ever since. Good luck, hope that helps. :iagree:

oh dear should have amended this! i sorted it it out ages ago, turns out it was similair to your dodgy sodler joint, in my case it was a dodgy molex adapter that came with the psu!, changed it and its all sorted now and working fine :slight_smile: