GSA-H11N flashing to H10N or H12N?

vbimport

#1

Hi there,

having up until now always been a user of a Pioneer writer, I have just bought myself a new computer.

This computer has an LG writer in it, my first LG. I was considering moving my pioneer over to it however for now I’d rather leave it out ideally, plus it would ruin the overall look of the nice new case I have until I switch faceplaces.

Anywayssssss…

I’ve been doing a fair bit of reading up on this writer, about bitsetting, reliability etc.

This LG writer I’ve found is the H11N model on firmware JG03. I know that its basically a varient of the H10N. There is unfortunately very little information about this writer, but I did read that someone went from a H10 to a H12 to the H11 and back to the H10 :slight_smile:

Now firstly, other than DVD-RAM (which I dont intend to use anyway), is there any benefit going from my H11N to the H10N or 12N? I see that the H10N is at firmware JL11 which is a higher number than my JG03. Would I be right in presuming the main difference is basically disc compatability for newer dyes updated…so therefore worthwhile doing this upgrade?

The H12N is UJ12 also which is even higher? What is the benefit of the H12N? 16x writing speed? So I would presume that out of all of them I’d be best flashing it over to the H12N if that is possible?

So…in this case…can I check with you that I’d be taking the correct steps to flash.

  1. Flash my H11N JG03, with TDBs own H11N firmware JG03 in order to remove the flash protection the Lg drives have?

  2. Reset

  3. Flash with either the TDBs H10Ns latest or H12Ns latest

  4. Reset.

I presume that the above would work fine?

At the moment I’ve only test burned a few discs on the LG. In the past on my pioneer 108 I’ve always burned dvd-rs at 4x and no faster as 8x would quite often give errors if tried to verify back some discs, and 6x would give the odd error once in a while. 4x seemed to be the magic number for a perfect burn 99.99% of the time for me. I’ve done a few at 4x on this writer, and just tried one at 8x which went through the verify perfectly fine - so I may perhaps be tempted to use 8x more in the future.

I presume that neither the H10 or H12 will auto bitset so I will need to use Alexnoe bitset tool. My old pioneer was auto bitsetting so its the first time I’ve really needed to check into how to bitset. This only affects me primarily for xbox 360 discs, which I dont burn too often so not much of an issue if I need to manually set the booktype.

Thanks for your time,
Tuck


#2

H10N/H11N do 16x on +/-R while H12N does 18x. :slight_smile:
I usually burn media at its rated speed or one step lower. But 4x on 16x media with a 16x burner will usually not give good results. Use 8x or 12x instead. :slight_smile:


#3

aah so this H11N does do 16x then - the only discs I currently have tested were 8x max…forgot to actually look at its max burn speed :slight_smile:

Max burn speed usually doesnt bother me as I prefer a reliable burn rather than a fast burn, just a force of habit that I have always stuck with 4x…I’m sure media reliability is probably a bit better these days…but for example with my pioneer writer in the past…burning at 8x and the failure rate out of 100 discs would prob be about 10%. Burning at 6x would normally have dropped that rate to about 2-3%…but going to 4x and I never have a fail, not counting those rare few with physical defects (this is going by the disc verifying back - not whether it just said burn complete)…so I decided to stick with trusting the good old 4x and not spend the time verifying and have never had a problem since. At that point 8xs were the norm, and I generally buy 8x discs but sometimes do get 16x (when the price is actually cheaper than the 8x) but still had done them at 4x, but true - am sure 8x would likely be perfectly safe.

So regarding the updating then…I presume that the main advantage if I go to H10N is that it has been updated more frequently than the H11 to include more media codes, and therefore will be more reliable long term? Other than that there is no need for me to go to the H12 as I would not burn that fast anyway? Until of course new firmwares stop coming out for the H10 but continue on the H12 beyond that.

cheers,
Tuck


#4

There is no firmware flash protection, so this step make so sense.

  1. Flash with either the TDBs H10Ns latest or H12Ns latest

You can directly use TDB H10N JJ11 firmware.

I presume that neither the H10 or H12 will auto bitset
I presume you did not read the FAQ thead :slight_smile:


#5

heh.

I did read the faq thread (well ok admittedly ‘most’ of it) :slight_smile: I was partially through reading the area about bitsetting, where it said that one particular model firmware ‘could’ be made to auto bitset (not counting putting the bitsetting tool in windows startup) but I never saved that thread so was going to look it up again later. I dont think it was either of them 2 firmwares however.

as to step 1. again, I dont have the thread to hand, but I believe it was a post made by TDB who referred to the firmware having some sort of ‘protection’ to stop people from cross flashing to make it a different model. So in effect my thinking was by flashing it to TDBs own version for same model, it would now be unlocked to allow the cross flashing to take place :slight_smile: guess I was wrong there :smiley:


#6

The protection is implemented in the flasher, not in the firmware. Seach this post for bitsetting.


#7

thanks,

I’ve just been fully reading the thread this time instead of parts of it :slight_smile:

soooooo…the TDB firmwares do autobitset :smiley: yayyy thats a bit of a timesaver at least

I’ve noticed however that noone seems to have gone from a genuine H11N to the H10N or H12N before. Only in the case of the person trying to flash back his original 10N from going to 12N and back to 11N.

It makes me a bit wary :slight_smile: but I’m tempted to try flashing mine to the H12N - I cant see there being any physical problems going by this touch wood…then again I might just play it safe and go to the H10N :slight_smile:

Can I ask however, the RPC1 site shows for the H10N both “JJ11 Windows (RPC1 and Auto-Reset), and JL11 Windows (RPC1 and Auto-Reset)”

I see that the JJ uses the hitachi buffalo version of the firmware which therefore has the auto bitsetting. Presumaby this will be the one I need to use. What make is the JL11 for as the FAQ only seems to refer to the J and N types in its question 24?

once this other HD has finished defragging I’ll dl either the 10N or 12N’s to give it a try :slight_smile:


#8

I updated anyways :slight_smile:

I used the H12N firmware, choosing the RPC1.exe . Flashing worked fine.

For some reason nero infotool didn’t show up the new writer at first, but then after loading up nero and quitting, it showed it up fine. Presumably my pc was just catching up.

Time to do a few burns…heres hoping that alls good :slight_smile:

cheers for the advice