[QUOTE=MrMoody;1975562]Unfortunately, I don’t think any MKM001s have been made in Singapore in 8-9 months or more. Any you get lucky and find are old stock and disappearing fast. If you want Singapore product, you’ll have to pay the price for MKM003 (the ones marked as 8X-10X). For me, the latest MIIs seem to work well enough to be worth the savings.[/QUOTE]
Actually, I’ve seen plenty of new style (meaning they are within a year old) MKM001 DL around and they’re all MIS around here and they all burn nicely
Now as for the comments others made about wearing the laser out - here’s some info for you all -
Some model PS2’s were known to blow fuses and have lasers die and do all these weird things if you used a scratched disc, or one that was basically hard to read. A poor burn is hard to read, isn’t it
Who’s to say that the Xbox couldn’t have some of the same issues. I also believe it will wear the laser out quicker because it’s stressing more to read and sometimes re read bad spots, possibly using more laser power to do so, focusing closer etc.
It’s a fact that a console using all original games will quite often outlast one that’s been playing burns all it’s life. So yes, I personally believe good burns should be used at all times.
[B]@ THE.C[/B] - how is the burn garbage? Did you stop to think how the hell the PIF could exceed 900 in one spot but not have any rise in PIE? Looks like a false result to me. A TRT will tell the truth though.
To find out if this is a bad burn, do not use quality scanning with a pioneer. Either get a liteon, or use cdspeed with the Pioneer to do a Transfer Rate Test.
TRT is a real world reading test. If the disc actually has those errors, the pioneer will almost certainly stop and give a read error message. If it goes through beautifully, you have a fully readable burn and the next step to gathering more info is getting a liteon drive.