DVD Media VERY important! #1 tip

Keep in mind that to do good quality backups with DVD2one here are a few of my favorite things… :bigsmile:

1st> CLEAN the original disk…no fingerprints!

2nd> CREATE a directory first called “moviename_burn”

3rd> CREATE 2 new folders in “moviename_burn” VIDEO_TS and if you like AUDIO_TS (although I burned a movie with just the all caps VIDEO_TS in the compilation and plays fine. S)

4th > DVD Decrypter… File mode works very good. Get a few of the other ‘beginning’ files, such as VIDEO_TS.IFO and such DVD2ONE will use what it needs.

5th > Use the DVD2ONE and now point the “destination” to your above created VIDEO_TS.

6th> BURN in UDF or UDF/ISO mode, Level 1, ISO 9660 NO Joliet, UDF vers 2.01 and just click and drop the VIDEO_TS folder that has the files in it now that DVD2one created.

7th> MOST IMPORTANT !! Use very good media. I can’t stress this enough. I’ve used Maxell 2X, TDK 2X, Ritek 4X and have always had great success with them. I have used HYpermedia 1X (that’s all they are good for and not even that!) from CMC in Taiwan. Junk!! Crap!!! I threw away the remaing 5 of the 10 pack. Will skip, pause, pixelate, the end not show up good. etc etc. It (using poor media) will make you THINK you or your sofwater is doing poorly. the media can be so variable it’s a flip of the coin on cheap media if you get a good burn or another piece for a Mobile.

8th> SOLITUDE. …shhh burning DVD… I know this sounds odd, but when I burn I leave the room. a DVD burns to a track of 0.79 Micron… pretty small. That is why media is more expensive… and THAT is why DVD burners cost more… the tolerance has to be so much higher on DVD than on CD. 0.79 is really a small amount of space. a red blood cell is 9.0 micron… the smallest visible thing for a human to detect is somewhere in the neighborhood of 39 micron… so 0.79 is really a very small track. I can’t prove it,but can you imagine a laser burning it’s information and you ‘thump’ the side of the computer case and cause a vibration?

This last idea is just my quirk. so take it or leave it, but I know I walk away very softly and have excellent results from burns…

NERO version is the one I’m using and seems to burn a very compatible DVD. Rene’ has talked about a but I have not seen it crop up as yet. Perhaps it is really the “b”.??

Hello Vernon, I’ve got a couple of questions regarding you’re 6th tip:

Why do you you not select Joliet, and isn’t 1.02 supposed to be a more compatible UDF mode? I don’t mean to put you in the spotlight…I just want to get my info straight before I begin to archive some of my movies.

I can’t prove it,but can you imagine a laser burning it’s information and you ‘thump’ the side of the computer case and cause a vibration?

LOL! And I thought I was the only one meticulous enough to worry about that. :bigsmile:

#4 I use DVDDecrypter in ISO mode to create an ISO image and mount in Daemon tools. Use this as input to DVD2one. The ripping time is faster.

#6 What is UDF 2.01, the most compatible is 1.02

Hi Wapazoid! Nice to see you!

I’ve burned a lot of DVDs using the 1.02 UDF ver. and they play in my Apex, company’s Toshiba, an Aopen, another Toshiba, a Daewoo, an RCA. a movie that would not play in my cellar masters Sony DVD in UDF 1.02 WOULD play using 2.01 UDV version… so not sure about that one. It’s listed as an option in Nero so I gave it a go ahead to try. I have burned several copies of the same movie just to test compatibility for you guys… not for me… I have the original… grin

Joliet is more or less a MacIntosh file format compatible thing. Joliet explained here!

So I never check Joliet as I’m not really needing the compilation to be compatible with a Mac. :smiley:

NYPLAYER: I’m not disputing you about being faster with Daemon tools and ripping faster. Thing is most of these folks are still asking… HUH?? what’s a Daemon?? Most don’t realize that UDF stands for Unified Disc Format to begin with. S This keeps the software to 3 basics, DVD Decrypter, DVD2ONE and some favorite burning progam and does NOT have to be Nero… just I have Nero and as a friend of mine would say… " It’s paid fer ! " :bigsmile:

Just for your info… these are things I wondered about in the beginning and finally researched it out.

XXX.VOB is a Video OBject file

xxx.IFO is an InFOrmation file

XXX.BUP is a BackUP file

Not sure why, but the back up files are necessary. Aparently the DVD player looks to see if they are included. I noticed that on “pressed” store bought movies that all 3 things are in there, under the VIDEO_TS directory.

Some also have an AUDIO_TS folder (always empty) and some do not. I usually burn with one, but did one yesterday with just the VIDEO_TS and plays fine on set tops.

One of the most important files that is not automatically highlighted by DVD Decrypter when you have “select Main Movie” and that is the VIDEO_TS.IFO the ‘MOTHER’ of information files. Sort of tells everyone else where their place ought to be. I’ve read in www.doom9.org that you always, ALWAYS !! ALWAYS !!! inculde the VIDEO_TS.IFO file when you rip…:slight_smile:

How do I go about changing all these settings in NERO?

I usually just use the wizard. What setting does the wizard use as default?



you should be able to close the wizard. If you click on “HELP” you will see “Wizard” checked. click it and the wizard will go away.

in the far left if you choose “new” you will be give a choice. Pick DVD. choose what you desire to use to burn… such as UDF or ISO/UDF mode.

Fill in the blanks in the settings and then on the right of those setting click on the “new” again and you will be taken to compilation. just drag and drop like an explorer item the VIDEO_TS folder where you have put all the files. Once that is done the “BURN” icon at the top will be lit up and just click on that. rest is pretty self explanatory. S

Thanks for the help, I’ll give it a try.

I have been successful with wizard. Should I just carry on?
“if it aint broke dont fix it!”

Well guys,
I hate to be the ice on the pond, but I have had many problems with NERO. Seem any costers I have ever made I owe to NERO in one way or the other. I should rephrase that it is not only NERO but the fact NERO at this time CANNOT make 100% DVD compliant files. "Ya Ya I know it works for me every time " well your are lucky then.
I will give half the credit or blame to my 2 Panasonic players these out of the 6 I own are the only ones that NERO can not make DVDs for. That unfortunately is enough for me to not use NERO anymore. I am now using Record Now Max and have no problems on any of my sets. I will close in saying yes Media is important [ I use Ritek media ] but if any portion of your archive system is incompatible with another you are wasting time and money!!

“Strength and Honor”

dvd9to5 me


Thanks for sharing your dvd backup tips. They’re very helpful to those of us who are trying to understand this rather complex mass of information regarding DVD backup methods.

Hi All
I simply follow the great instructions from DVD2One. Grab a copy of DVD Decrypter. Highlight ALL files from the CD. Burn to a new folder (VIDEO_TS) w2hcih should be in a subfolder - choose any name - movie is probably a good idea, Also include an AUDIO_TS folder - this folder will always be empty though.

DVD Decrypter will strip the files into a new folder it create on your HD (you need about 12GB free at a min). Once it is stripped then point DVD2one to see the stripped files and tell it to put them in the empty VIDEO_TS folder you have just created.

Start DVD2one and let it do its thing - do not use the pc at all as you are doing this. The open record now and add the folders AUDIO_TS and VIDEO_TS you have just created to the DVD you plan to burn by creating a “data” DVD in record now. add these two folders on their own do not add the parent folder which contains these folders.

Once again do nothing else with your PC as you are doing this. Then just burn the DVD - should take about 56 mins.

I use bulkpaq purple 1 speed discs - work ever time at one speed. 70 discs working in 6 different DVD players so far.

Happy burning

Hello to all,

Very clear story, and that’s how I alsways do it.
Especially the cleaning !
Got a little electrical device over here with a special cleaning fluid to clean DVD’s.
Also as I have found out, your hardware setup is also important.
Bought a sever-casing for my hardware.
Not only DVD2One but also programs like Ifoedit and Vobedit will put a big strain on you HD’s.
They can run very hot during stripping or resizing.
Use high speed ATA cables (80 pins) that are not longer then 60 cm, and if you can afford it, use round-up cables for HD’s and floppy drive.
This will improve the air-flow in you computer casing so the hardware will be cooled better.
The server-case I bought has:

  • 2 80mm fan’s to cool directly the 4 HD’s
  • 1 80 mm fan in the front-bottom
  • 2 80 mm fan’s at the back near the CPU
  • 1 80 mm fan to the side
  • 2 80 mm fan’s in the power supply

Now some people will say that all those fan’s will create a lot of noise.
But to my own stunning suprise the computer is more quit in this casing then in my old big-tower !
Must have something to do with the quality of the fan’s (they are all ball bearing) and their RPM’s.
The RPM’s are controlled by the Gigabyte mobo and they don’t run all time time at max. RPM’s (even the 2 fan’s in the power supply) !
More heat -> the mobo increases the RPM’s -> when cooled down -> the mobo decreases RPM’s
After putting my ‘old’ Abit KG7-RAID mobo in this casing I tried to re-install Windows XP Pro.
And yes, the mobo died.
Bought a Gigabyte 7VAXP Ultra and build up:

  • 1 striping for preformance (2 HD’s) Primary and Secondary master.
  • 1 Striping for preformance (2 HD’s) Primary and Secondary slave.

I decrypt to the first and then use DVD2One to read from the 1st and write to the 2nd striping.
Needless to say this will shorten the DVD2One process and put less strain on a single set of HD’s.
Striping isn’t really necessary for this, you can also do this with 2 non-striped HD’s (connected to normal IDE controller).
I use Nero / UDFISO / UDF 1.02 and ISOLevel 2.
ISOLevel 2 so I can put more then 8 characters in the DVD Label for the title of the movie, works great, no problems and have have tested this on many set-top players.
Media used Princo 1 or 2 speed, and they never have let me down.
When writing, I don’t do anything else with the computer and I also disabled screensavers and energy savers !
If I don’t use the computer I turn it off so I don’t need any savers to do that for me.
Also, reduced the amount of back-round tasks to the absolute minimum as they can also mess up the writing process.
The Gigabyte also has 2 serial ATA connections and in the future I will build up a similar striping but then serial ATA.
Also check at the web sites of the manufac. of your hardware for new firmwares/bios or drivers !
Bought my LTD 165H 2 weeks ago and there was a newer firmware for it, also for my new mobo, bios from F3 to F4.
REMEMBER: Always follow the guides when flashing bios or firmware and make sure you have the RIGHT firmware/bios for your hardware.
If you don’t have a clue about that, then DON’T do it or ask someone who does !
If NOT done in the correct way it can run your device USELESS !


  1. The initial firmware of my Pioneer 104 didn’t support UDMA reading/writing.
    Found out on the Australian web-site of Pioneer that I had to put the drive in PIO4 in the Bios and in Windows.
    Then the writing went ok, and some firmware updates later this problem was also fixed and the drive could read/write in UDMA mode.
  2. My old mobo had a Via 686b southbridge chip.
    In combination with a Sounblaster Live this could give problems and on the Via site there was a PCI Latency Patch to solve this.
  3. My old mobo (KG7-RAID) had a Highpoint 370 Raid controller.
    When I used the Windows XP default drivers for this the transfer was more or less 35 MB per second.
    After I had installed the Highpiont drivers this went up to 72-75 MB per second.
    This driver has also been updated several times !

In the Bios check that UDMA is enabled or set to Auto for you reader/writer and HD’s.
This will also improve the process and don’t overclock anything !
It will only cause system instabillity !
Also check in the Bios (if present) that the option PnP Os is Enabled.
When set, not the bios but Windows XP will do the interrupt handling for the hardware for you.
Futher more, set the timing of your Dimm’s on Auto or controlled by SPD and disable any hardware you don’t use.
Example: Serial/Paralell ports or onboard audio etc.
This will free up interrups that Windows can use for other hardware !
All my hardware (scanner/printer/ mouse etc) are USB connected.
Also, if you have a lot of hardware in you computer, make sure that you power supply is big enough !
Below a small overview of my hardware:

  • Lite-On LTD 165H
  • Pioneer 104
  • Lite-On 52x/24x/52x writer
  • 4 IBM’s 40 GB each / ATA 100 / 7200 RPM / 2 MB cache on every drive - Configured RAID 0 for Preformance
  • AMD Athlon XP 2100+
  • 512 MB Brand/Brand PC2100 DDR from Samsung
  • Geforce4 TI4600
  • MOBO: Gigabyte 7VAXP Ultra
  • Casing: Antec Performance Plus 1000 Series
  • Power supply: Antec 430 Watt
  • Cable: 5 ATA round-up’s for HS’s/reader & writers and 1 for floppy all from Cooler Master.

Maybe some members don’t have a clue of what I wrote above.
I also had to find out the hard way and many reading on forums.
Have been busy for more then a year now with the whole DVD process and I also had my share of up’s and down’s.
And if it wasn’t for the help from other people (Derrow/Forums) I would be still walking in the dark.
TIP 1: If you are not sure, try first with a DVD±RW !
TIP 2: Don’t make your computer run at his toes, often it’s better to set everything a bit conservatif (slower) so you will gain more stability !
TIP 3: Check here if your set-top player can read ±R/RW.
TIP 4: Buy good media like Vljenewein typed.
It will cost a little bit more, but can save you the irritation of corrupted video or not running at set-top player !
Examples: TDK/Maxell/Ritek/Princo
To the Mod’s or Admins of CDFreaks: If you think that what I wrote goes to far or is not appropriate, then please delete or correct it !
Give you all my best,


In reference to the media, i am using datasafe Gen 3 classic Yellow top and it works pretty well for the majority of disks. Compatible with just about anything. Although I have noticed some pixilation/freezing towards the end of some disks which I am assuming is down to the quality of media used. but can’t really complain for 75p a disk i suppose.

Anyone know where in the UK it is possible to buy -RW media that will write at 2x speed in a Pioneer 105?


I think SVP Communications (www.121cdr.co.uk) have just started selling x2 DVD-RW’s…Tony

Thanks, Tony

If that ‘Mirror’ brand - aka Ritek - that they’re selling as being 2x speed, is the same as the one sold by Staples in identical packaging and labelling, then they’re wrong!
I got one from Staples and it’s only 1x in my 105 :frowning:



Also try cd-rmedia.co.uk - they are brilliant, cheap and deliver next day!

Yes, I know (thanks)

They don’t have any DVD-RW 2x speeds though…

As a matter of interest, I’ve now sourced some from Lynx (www.lynxdvd.co.uk) and they’re first class - the company and the discs :slight_smile:


Interesting, I’ve found cmc media in it’s Verbaitim form THE most reliable.

As for UDF, I used to always use udf 1.02, but decided to try 2.01 and found the disks “booted” quicker in my Sony davs 300.

I think it’s a case of what works for you…if you’re “backing up” for profit, then that’s a different story again.