DVD Media Question, Please Help!


I want to buy some DVD media for my Lite-On 451 Burner and I was wondering which media is best. I want to use it for Data Backup purposes, so it’s important that the media has a long life and that all data is burned reliably without errors.

Also, I did read other threads in this forum, but could not find an answer to these questions.

1.) What is better, DVD+R or DVD-R, these are my current options. I have heard that DVD-R is better especially for data. Is that correct?

2.) I love the FujiFilm Taiyo Yuden CD-R Media, I have been using it for a few years and I can attest that it is of the best quality; however is the same true for FujiFilm DVD-R Taiyo Yuden Media? (Yes I know not all FujiFilm DVD media is from TY, however the 50 spindle I saw from FujiFilm was made in Japan and therefore extremely likely to be made by Taiyo Yuden)

3.) I only care about reliability, is it as safe to use DVD media as it is to use CD-R media? (I am asking because DVD obviously has a higher density and should theoretically be therefore more easily corruptible) To be specific: Is it safe to use DVD-R (or +R) for data storage?

4.) What is a good price, I can buy a 50 spindle, retail from FujiFilm, Made in Japan (Taiyo Yuden) for $50. Is that an ok price? (I know there maybe some cheaper ones online, but I want to be sure it is high quality!)

5.) My burner can burn at 4x by default, with cracked firmware it can write at 8x, however what is the best yet fastest speed to write DVD-R media? (Is 4x ok, or should I use 2x?, what is the best ration between write quality and speed?)

6.) How can u compare write quality of DVD media with that of CD-R media? I mean is there some way I can judge how long one will last over the other?
I can use KProbe to test for C1 & C2 errors on CD-R and PI & PO on DVD’s, but can I compare them?

7.) Then my final question is: what marker is best to write on the CD/DVD Media, I know some markers discolor the Media (bleed out) and could reduce readability, but is there a safe marker to use?

Please let me know!

Thanks for any help!!!

  1. No, there is no ‘better’ format for data storage. Search the forum for more information on the format differences.

  2. Yes, If you saw a 50 spindle that says Made in Japan, it will be TY. Yes TY, still makes the best media, even in the DVD world. Highly recommended.

  3. Yes if you’re using Taiyo Yuden media. :smiley: There are many different and various quality discs in the market.

  4. Yep that’s a good price for Taiyo Yuden. Where did you see the 50 spindle that says made in Japan?

  5. Speed/Quality depends on the burner and the media. TY writes excellent even at 8X. Quality is usually not compromised. Some disc/burner combinations will burn with better quality at higher speeds!

  6. No, you can’t compare CD media to DVD media. It is completely different. Use Kprobe PI/PIF scanning to evaluate the relative quality of different DVD discs.

  7. Sharpies work fine! Read the Media FAQ.



Not sure if you are in the US or not but rima.com just dropped the price on their 4x Taiyo Yuden DVD-R discs (no worrying about where they are made). They are now $40+shipping for a 50 pack. So after shipping it will probably save you $5 or so over the price on the Fujifilm TY discs. www.rima.com

Dvd+r media is best. http://www.cdfreaks.com/article/113
Lite-on’s prefer +r media.http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=103664
TY is the best but by far the most expensive. 2nd best in my opinion is ricohjpn. I just bought a 100 pk from newwegg on sale for 34 cents per disc and have had no problems w/ them and although they are coded at 4x they burn very well at 8x. :bigsmile:

Also try MCC verbatim Made in Japan or Singapore (available usually at 8X) !

@Mort81, Really? Then why do burners have to offer booktype/bitsetting options to increase compatibility, when -R doesn’t need it. I recognize what they are saying about the burning process but the fact of the matter is that a quality -R disc simply offers the most compatibility without any adjustments. Also, you need to spend some time talking to videogame console owners. Just ask people with Samsung drives in their XBOXs or people with older version PS2s how well +R media gets along with their drives. :wink:

I’m just going by my personal experiences and from what I’ve read and researched on the subject. Everybody is entitled to their own opinion. How hard is it to set the booktype to dvd-rom? Do it once and your done. I have no experience w/ XBOX’s or PS2’s. I started haveing freezing problems w/ dvd-r media (even branded ritek ridata g04’s). Since switching to ritek dvd+r (media code ricohjpnr01 02) I have had absolutely no problems.

Well I am going off of my personal experience as well (which has included more applications than yours). For set-top DVD Players there isn’t much difference between a quality -R disc and a +R disc but for other applications there is a significant difference. I realize that it isn’t that hard to adjust the booktype/bitsetting options but they point is that with DVD-R, you never have to bother in the first place. As for the article above, while it does seem well written there are a number of good arguments against it. :wink:

Ok Jesterrace, tell me this. Since you’re saying that dvd-r’s are just as compatable as dvd+r’s booktyped dvd-rom, why do the last few rips/burns I have done useing branded ritek ridata g04’s (dvd-r) freeze when played on my standalone dvd player, even worse on my brothers, but when I copy the same g04 that was freezing, useing nero copy disc, to a ricohjpn (dvd+r) booktyped dvd-rom, the disc plays flawlessly on mine and my brothers and all other standalone dvd players I’ve tried?

Liteon uses a running OPC to adjust for wobble for -R media and its not very good. So it dont burn as well. +R is easier to burn at higher speeds. You can scratch the top of a DVD and it wont make any difference, In fact you can remove the top plastic and make it half as thick and the disk will still work :slight_smile: as long as you dont peel off the silver covering the dye (which is like the top silver on a CD). DVD also has better error correction so should last longer. But I also remember that I had 10 meg HD’s made in the 80’s that still seems to work, While 10 year old hard drives loose the prerecorded calibration data and can not be reformated. So the more data the easier it is to loose it. But then you should be using DAT tapes for backup if you are going for long term like that. With everything that goes with that. Once recorded the +R/-R should not be any different with the +R booksetting. But I notcied some +R disks will not show up while others do. While most all -R’s disks work… This seems to have to do more with media than anything else. Yes the mediaid is different but the disks look identical where one works and another dont. So guess even slight changes affect such things. Same as some pre-recorded dvd’s wont read in my liteon recorder but seems to work fine in the settop of the dvd-rom drives.

Thanks everyone for all the help!

Ok I ended up reading the article about DVD-R and DVD+R here on cdfreaks, it says that DVD+R has better parity protection then DVD-R. Also considering what most of you said about the LiteOn burners and DVD+R I decided to get some +R.

First I bought a 25 pack FujiFilm made in Taiwan from BestBuy, it ended up being RICOHJPNR01, but a KProbe scan revealed that my first burn was not very good, I thoughi it might help to upgrade my firmware, so I read up about it here on cdfreaks and decided to patch mine with the 451S->832S + Omnipatcher adjustments, afterwards the burns where much MUCH better. Now i’m quite happy with the RICOHJPNR01’s, I can now burn at way better at 8x then I could before at 4x.

Anyway then I wanted to buy some more medua, I had the chance to buy what i thing where a 100 pack of these (RICOHJPNR01) in BestBuy where they had a 100 pack of Fuji+R’s (Made in Taiwan) for $59.99 (not counting rebates).
But I missed it because I instead decided to get a 50 pack of Verbatims DVD+R (Made In Taiwan) which turned out to be MCC003. However my first 3 burns are not good at all, I get a huge mountain of PI and PIF at the end. I read that maybe I should use Omnipatcher to change my write strategy for the MCC003 to that of the PRODISCR03’s to get a better burn. Any other ideas on what to do to improve write quality with these disks?

Well I haven’t patched the firmware to that yet though because I am thinking about returning them to BestBuy and instead getting a 50 pack of FujiFilm DVD-R made in Japan (TY) that they have on sale this week (19th to 25th of September 2004) for $29.99 (not counting the $5 mail in rebate)

What do you guys think I should do, keep my MCC003’s or get some TY –R ones instead?

Also thanks for the backup related info, I like that the dvd’s have a plastic top and bottom layer so that they are less vulnerable to scratches (compared to the sensitive exposed top layer of regular CD-R’s)
Anyway I understand that nothing is a perfect backup solution, but I just hope that, without any extreme environmental conditions, the DVD±R’s won’t fade for at least 20+ years. I guess it also depends on the Media, but do is this a reasonable expectation?

Again, Thanks!

Try a burn on the mcc003 with the changed write strat and then decide. Although ty is probably the best media mcc is very good as well. I am tickled pink with my ricohjpnr01’s.