Do fuel ionizers work?



AGAIN!!! Grrr!!! My iq is going nowhere :frowning:

Anyway … Back on topic.


On one hand we have blokes selling devices which claim to increase performance of cars, by clipping magnetic doobylackers to your fuel lines, or by improving performance by mixing oxygen and fuel better before reaching your cylinders.
On the other hand, we have skeptics which claim there is no evidence that these work, and that there isn’t even a plausible explanation of how these work.

Can anyone verify that these have any effect on fuel consumption?

Also please do this, and post your results before commenting on the product you have personally used.

Please don’t post “My friends, uncles, wifes, nephews, step sisters, fathers uncle says they work fantastically!”

Do they work, or don’t they?



More supporting evidence :slight_smile:

I’m wondering where to get a replacement flux capacitor.
I accidentally swiped it with a magnetic screwdriver, and now the beams seem to be crossed, which of course we all know, can destroy the universe as we know it.


There is obviously only one correct answer. :iagree:


If cheap “solutions” like this would work then the worlds car manufacturers would have putten them on their cars ages ago. (note the 272) is another example of a thing that costs 2 quid (see Womble now I have stolen your currency too!) and claims it makes wonders.

I do think car engineers know a little more about what is good for saving fuel than some guy with a P.O-box.


Argh debro you’re one of them! You tried to fool me into doing some IQ-test (which of course I did not read and merely clicked the answers at random) that costs money!
Sneaky, the ways of the BORG is.


What a crock. Now I’m not saying there arent things out there that dont make a difference, but this ionizer…do these people really think were that stupid?

So in short it sends a charge that it picks up from the ‘Firing Cylinder’ down the leads to the ‘Non Firing Cylinders’. Hahaha if the charge goes to the ‘Non Firing Cylinders’ what good could it possibly do? These cylinders in firing order have either expelled all combusted gases or are in the process of intaking more gases or in the process of compression. In other words this product preys on those who may think they’re mehanically minded but realisticly have no idea short from a few technical terms. It also makes a mockery of the Theory of Corona Chemistry which looks to be a plausable Science - just not for the application of the combustion engine.

They’re called Leads Damn You!

Most people could improve their Mileage if they just looked after their cars - Regular Service, (Filters oils and injectors/Carby’s) use a Premium Fuel. Shop around til you find one that your car loves.

My two cents


Bwuhahahahahhaa!!! I fooled you, and have now devoured your brain(s)! I have Emailed the remainder of your Brain as I have no need of the content :wink:


:disagree: fuel ionisers/ conditioners dont work :disagree: this is the only answer (i wish they did at a couple of quid a pop) basically they are magnets and the whole earth is a magnet lolol if they did work at all i think they would be standard equipment on most cars if you drive your car without lights on or radio on it will use less fuel although i doubt you would notice the improvement :smiley:
sorry i missed the capacitor/corona thing it would be fairly simple to intergrate this into the existing ignition system at probibly little or no extra cost it suposidly causes a spark in non firing cylinders when it aint needed (which will cause problems in some engines) trying to ignite unburned hydrocarbons with valves open wont help lol so again no :disagree: most young people fancy giving there cars a bit more poke and fit a big bore exaust with claimed increase in power but after a session on the rolling road it only increases noise levels in most cases :confused:


What does sending sparks to the remaining cylinders have with Ionizing organics.

The components in petro are really quite happy and do not like being Ionized…They a largely not least bit polar.???

What does the ionization of gas have to with combustion?

Do you really want an out of sequence firing of a spark plug in another cylinder…what portion of the cycle is it in…

I have to agree with myke and polluson - it’s manure


Bah! Manure fosters growth … the explanations provided by these guys is the equivalent of toxic waste. Maybe they originated from New Jersey.

The way I see it, there may be a very small possibility that charged molecules, in particular carbon, may be attracted to oppositely charged terminals, and build up on the spark plugs, which could cause high resistance around much if the spark terminals, meaning that the spark would eventually come from only a single area, which would eventually erode from the sparkle always firing from the same point. Eventually it would wear down so far, it would cause misfires.

But if they said that, rather than the gobbledy gook they do, they might convince someone.

But that said … the last time I looked (1 week ago) fuel injection cleaner does exactly that (cleans carbon buildup from the fuel injection nozzles & the spark plug, and it only costs $12 for two (6 monthly) treatments. It’d take 4.5 years before the ($50) device would pay for itself, assuming it worked.


NO, that is a useless POS that does absolutely NOTHING for fuel economy, and might actually cause more HARM than good. First of all, that thing DOES NOT IONIZE the fuel, it magnetizes it, if that were even possible. It does JACK to the fuel, but any METAL contaminants in the fuel may build up into a gob in the fuel line where you have that thing clipped! Then when the fuel line is blocked from a clum of crap, it breaks loose, and goes up the fuel line as a big gob. THEN WHAT??? Now you have a gob of metal shavings, that may or may not plug something up, including fuel injectors, the fuel pressure regulator, or the fuel filter! Not good, a stupid idea if you ask me! It COULD theoretically cause damage to your fuel system, if that happened.

Now if you did happen to find a way to IONIZE the fuel, that DOES make for more power, and better fuel economy. Seen as how that involves sending high voltage through gasoline, that’s a REALLY BAD IDEA!!! It can also create problems by attracting contaminants, destablizing the fuel, and possibly create ESD hazzards! If you want to waste money on a car part that’s easy to install, and actually does something, get a K&N air filter, or cold air induction kit. It makes more power, and gives you slightly better fuel economy (because the engine can breathe). You could also invest in a capacitive discharge ignition system that does multiple sparks for every ignition. The crane fireball HI 6 is what I put on my 69 chevelle with a crane energizer spark coil. It has a rev limiter built in, and can be triggered by my MSD pro billet distributor. That will help fuel economy, and give more power too. A nice exhaust system is probably the best place to boost power and fuel economy though, I have a 2 1/2" flowmaster american thunder dual exhaust on my chevelle comming off a pair of headers. It has an H pipe with 3 chamber mufflers, makes that little 400+ HP 327 sound MEAN!! :iagree:


Aye, it all sounds good, but my little toyota corolla with it’s 1.8L 4 cyclind engine is only 6 weeks old, and still under warranty.
I was just curious if any after market products are out there that make any difference to performance or fuel efficiency, and Ionizers popped jsut about everywhere.

I couldn’t see how it could possibly worked, but then again, I’m not a materials engineer or specialist with combustion & magnetism.


An aftermarket air cleaner won’t void your warranty, and it’s cheap. It won’t do much, but they do make for a little more power, and better economy. It’s CHEAP, easy to install, and they should last forever if you take care of them. All you have to do is clean it, and put oil on it (special oil they make for it, not just motor oil). The K&N air filters are the best, and they make them for almost anything. Should be about $30, it will be a good investment. I put one in my truck, and it made a little bit of a difference. I don’t want to spend $150 for the cold air intake pipe, it’s a waste of $$$. :iagree:


I have heard pretty good things about the k&n oil type air filters too. all they are doing is allowing less resistance to the air flow allowing you engine to get a little more air (more air and more fuel = more power). With the cyclone and crap like that, think about how many turns the air goes through before it gets to the cylinder. thier are after market items that will help but nothing that just drops in. for instance you can get aftermarket intake manafolds for many cars that will improve performance, but thats not just a cheap drop in upgrade. The other thing that can sometimes give a cheap power boost is to see if your car has any exaust restrictions. Sometimes they restrict the exaust to get beter gas milage or avoid a gas guzzler tax etc. and they can usally be easilly removed (may require a muffler shop to weld a new piece of pipe in depending on where the restriction is). A performance muffler can sometimes squeese out a few more horse power too.
One fo the most important things though, is to make sure you replace all your filters (oil, air, gas) on time, particularly the air and gas.


Here’s some stuff I use in my car that works and improves fuel efficiency: Marvel Mystery Oil (use 4 ozs. for every 10 gals) every fillup or every second fillup. It also has the added benefits of fighting gas line freeze and keeps your fuel injectors clean. If you mix it proportionally with your engine oil, it will help clean harmful deposits and remove sludge also (provided you also get a good oil filter), although you would only mix this with standard petroleum-based oil.

Another good idea that helps a lot of people and that I have used on my '89 Ford Escort LX (in addition to the Marvel Mystery Oil gas treatment) is Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer ( This will help lower the operating temperature of your engine, increase oil pressure and if you have an oil leak or you use oil (mine uses oil, although I don’t have an oil leak now), it will reduce your oil usage and condition the seals to stop oil leaks. It is especially good at reducing wear from starting your car.

Probably the best way to improve fuel efficiency in your car is to use a good synthetic oil. You would basically use a new oil filter on your car, then add engine flush, idling for 20 minutes; then drain your oil, replace the oil filter with a new one, then add the synthetic. The best around is Amsoil ( It is not only rated for 25,000 miles minimum use, but will improve your fuel efficiency. I used to use regular Pennzoil 10W-30 (which turns out to be one of the better oils), and treated each tank with STP, but only got 28 mpg on highway driving only on 2-3 fillups after the new oil change, so then I found I only got 24-25 mpg regularly. Once I started using the Amsoil full synthetic (10W-30, then 10W-40), I normally get 28-30 mpg, sometimes 32-34 mpg–driving the same way (highway). Plus, I would highly recommend the Amsoil Oil Filters, as they rate the highest of any filter, as does their synthetic oil. These filters are good for 12,500 miles (and one rep just told me they will have one good soon on the market for 25K miles) and have the best construction and filtering around. Although the oil and filters are a bit high for me, I cannot argue from the benefits I get from using them, especially on a 4-cyl, 140K mileage car like mine.


THe only reson I don’t use marvel mystery oil religiouslly, is because I have been pestered to use it non stop from my father. In all actuallity, its a minral based oil that provides exelent uper cylinder lube as well as dry ash lubrication properties (from burnt product) such as casteroil full synthetic provides). I use nothing but castrol 5-50. It sickens me that people do not understand the weight ratings on oil (thiers nothing that you can do beter for your engine that a good full synthetic). 5-50 means that the oil will not get thinner than a 50 weight oil at high temps (like what we get in texas), and will not get thicker than a 5 weight oil in cold (no chance of that here in texas, but plenty of it where I grew up in utah… 5-50 is the broadest range of oil and I cannot believe everybody isn’t using it.
Heads up everybody, your oil cap says 5-30 to satisfy the epa, reduce taxes for the manufacture and lower the buying price of your car. If you put 5-30 oil n your car, you are severlly misleed. Dont take my word for it, contact the oil manufactures, and ask them the benifits of 5-50.
The big point that I agree on with Quema34, is run full synthetic oil. Not only will you get better gas milage, you will get much less wear on your engine!!!
Unfortunatlly it is not good for old cars. If your car leeks a lot of oil, it will leek substantially more with synthetic…


i don’t think any of the air/fuel products really work and yes that includes the K&N filters. you have to remember the air/fuel are now cpu controlled. it’s what limits how much and how fuel. if sent to engine. that’s not to say that they don’t on some cars i.e. older carb cars that are not cpu controlled. but thier are orther ways to increase fuel/mpg. like maybe better spark plugs and yes lucas oil. the engine does control how much spark or how much lube. so better spark means better use of fuel. also better lubericant means less friction. altelast that’s my opinion


Well, a K&N air filter isn’t going to work miracles, but it DOES help both fuel economy and horsepower. You’re right, the amount of FUEL that goes into the engine IS controlled by the computer, but airflow is controlled by the throttle body and air intake path. Most of an engine’s fuel is spent fighting the resistance of incoming air. The engine vacuum is contsnatly placing a load on the cylinders that are firing, so all that force = wasted fuel. when you have an air cleaner that allows for more airflow, that’s one less thing that the engineis fighting. Plus more air allows a cooler, denser intake charge, which improves power, and economy. You also don’t have to open the accelerator as far to get the same emount of air with a K&N air filter, which means the computer isn’t automatically dumping more fuel down the intake just because you pushed the accelerator pedal. I dunno, it’s not an earth shattering difference, but it is well worth the $30 they charge for it. If nothing else, just because you don’t have to buy a new air cleaner every time it gets dirty. you just take it out and cleanit in warm soapy water. Dry it out, and spray oil on it. :iagree:


lots of things can factor into getting better gas milage…from synthetic oil to just proper maintance…the pressure in the tires can contribute to better milage…but if you feel spending the money on something that suppose to help increase it…go ahead…its your money…just don’t neglect basic car maintance in the process…


damn, all the good answers are used up. i read about a test on these and a few other things in cara and driver a few years ago (maybe a lot of years) and in a combination of the smart and the beautiful (RDG and SS) they said that computer controls made any difference indetectible and they were able to make substancial differences by doing things like airing up the tires and changing airfilters… oh yeah and 142 in case you need the iq.