Disc Repair: JFJ Easy Pro (or similar) Support Thread

I’m starting this thread because I currently own a JFJ Easy Pro machine and want to get the most that it has to offer in terms of repairing discs.

That said, I’ve also purchased / owned less expensive stuff like SkipDr and simpler CD/DVD repair kits, and I’m interested in learning about anything that works, and how to make it work better.

I don’t sell disc repair services or supplies or equipment, or work for anyone that does. I’m just interested in making discs from my own DVD collection more playable. Anyone interested in the same objective is welcome in this thread.

On to my assertions and observations (so far):

For discs that are unplayable (but not cracked/broken), any of a number of bits of equipment offer almost NO downside. After processing the disc, you can either play it or you can’t. In theory you could render a disc even more unplayable than before, but for now I want to treat all “dead babies” as equally dead.

The question becomes much trickier when you consider processing a disc that is scratched and marginally playable or might be coaxed into playability. In this scenario, it is entirely possible to take a marginally playable disc and render it completely unplayable. It is also possible to take a disc with obvious scratches and render it prettier and yet LESS PLAYABLE than before.

This is a first crucial distinction: Discs with a pretty surface are not necessarily better for playing than ones with a scratched surface.

I’m convinced that the only way to tell is thru testing for surface failures with the right drives and software. There are many options for doing this.

I’ve spoken with the owner / developer of the JFJ Easy Pro product on a number of occasions, and he is very polite and responsive. I was surprised to learn, however, that his apparent measure of success is entirely “binary”: Taking discs that are unplayable and then stopping the restoration process when it appears they will load / play on one or an unknown number of systems.

Equally surprising is that the folks at JFJ Easy Pro were entirely unaware of the existence of scanning software or the process of scanning discs for an overall measure of data integrity.

I’ve spent a lot of time over the past couple of months trying to go about this in an entirely different way. I start of by doing a baseline scan and then doing additional scans after restorative attempts along the way.

I hope that one of the things gained by participating in this thread will be the ability to identify tips and techniques for generating the greatest improvement in disc quality.

Howdy Lasiter, are you aware of the little research Larry Jordan did back in the days? Check out :The Life-Span of DVDs
Larry Jordan At: http://www.larryjordan.biz/articles/lj_dvd_life.html
I know the type of plastic additive used for the coating can play a large role regarding durability too and all but I’m no specialist.

Very interesting subject though. Good luck with this thread.

[QUOTE=Major Malfunction;2280688]I know the type of plastic additive used for the coating can play a large role regarding durability too and all but I’m no specialist.[/QUOTE]Thanks for the link. One thing I read recently is that DVDs fail from the outside edge in. Perhaps due to bonding issues? Unsealed exposure of the two layers?[QUOTE=Major Malfunction;2280688]
Very interesting subject though. Good luck with this thread.[/QUOTE]Your pointing to “bit-rot” and failure methods of CDs/DVDs is relevant because I’ve been doing scans of discs that have large sections that are only marginally playable, not related to any obvious damage from scratches.

I hope to hear / make a few observations on that as well soon.

Some random tips and tricks:

It’s important to use enough buffing compound, EVERY time you run a disc.

This is also true when you are processing multiple discs in sequence.

“Enough” is about .25 teaspoon approximately 180 degrees apart on the buffing pad (that’s .5tsp total), and from there you spread it out, of course.

Running a pad that’s too dry is one of the biggest reasons for a poor result.

The surest way to RUIN a disc is by excessive sanding. I’ve had such bad luck with sanding that I avoid it if at all possible. If you must use sandpaper, sand in very short bursts.

The only time to use the heavy grit paper is when you can drag a fingernail across the disc and it the scratches are deep enough to catch it.

Another basic rule is that any abrasive compound / material is followed by EVERY less abrasive method.

That means that the heavy sanding pad is followed by the lighter sanding pad, followed by the white compound and then the blue compound.

If you run the light sanding pad for 10 seconds, that’s followed by the white compound pad for 60 seconds, and then the blue compound.

More tips to follow, along with stories (scans) of success and failure …