I’ll be out of the country next week, with limited connectivity, but I’ll be back Friday night. It’ll probably take that long to complete an auction and get the processor delivered, so it’s likely I’ll be here when you’re ready to install it.
As to your wireless problem, it begins to sound like a neighbor may be the culprit, especially if you live in an apartment vs. a detached house. As I mentioned before, routers that use a proprietary turbo scheme, such as those from D-Link and NetGear, bond two channels to achieve an effective doubling of potential throughput. The problem is that this bonding tends to walk all over other signals. In tests these routers have been shown to interfere with not only wireless networking, but also with cordless phones, Bluetooth devices, etc. Most routers default to channel 6 out of the box, so you may be able to restore communication by switching to either channel 1 or 11. I suggest this because these are the only channels that don’t overlap with othere channels, potentially providing more throughput, and because they are as far from channel 6 as the spectrum allows.
failing that, you may have some sort of fault in your router. If you have a friend who can loan you a router for an evening to test this, that would prove it.
First off, how was your trip? Secondly, thanks for all your help.
Well, it looks like my cpu just barely shipped. So, if you have the time would you mind posting the cpu upgrade instructions. It will probably arrive on Wednesday or later. It seems that changing the default channel 6 to channel 11 works temporarily. The disconnections aren’t as frequent now. I will look into getting my hands on another wireless router. I don’t think that my neighbor has one. It will be a bit longer before I can look into this. Problem is I’m on a college student budget and time is scarce as well. Later.
I’m back, and the trip was exhausting, but all went well, thanks.
OK, I’ll probably post some pictures this weekend to asist with navigating through this, but here’s the quick and dirty:
Note: Anti-static procedures should be observed throughout this process.
Flip the laptop over so you’re looking at the bottom. There’s a phillips head screw about dead center of the bottom, and another identical screw about 6 inches to the right (assuming that you have the front toward you). These screws secure the keyboard. Remove both.
Flip the laptop back over and open the lid. At the lower edge of the keyboard, just below the left Alt key and the right Ctrl key, there are two spring loaded clips securing the keyboard. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver to push these clips toward the front of the laptop. Be careful here, it’s easy to pop the keycaps off. Once these clips release the keyboard will pop up along the front edge. Lift it up and you will see a ribbon cable leading to a connector on the motherboard. This connector has a lip on the upper edge. Pry the lip up on the left and right sides with a fingernail and the cable will come out. Set the keyboard aside.
In the hole left by the keyboard, along the left side, you’ll see a larhe aluminum block. This is the heat sink and fan assembly. This is secured by four phillips head screws. Remove them. there is a two condictor cable laeding from the fan assembly to the motherboard, pull this. You need to lift the heat sink out. It may present some resistance at first, work it carefully out and set it aside.
You’re looking at the processor now. It’s in a ZIF (zero insertion force) socket. To release the processor turn the screw at the top of the socket counter-clockwise. The processor will now lift out.
Check the new processor to make sure that the pins are all straight. When you look at the pins on the processor you will see that one corner is missing some pins, forming a bevelled edge on that corner. That corner goes into the socket in the upper right corner. Once the processor is seated, press down on it while you turn the socket screw clockwise to secure it.
You can now turn on the laptop (with no keyboard) and see if the Gateway splash screen displays. If it doesn’t, remove the processor, check the pins again, and reseat it. Test it again.
If the splash screen displays, turn the laptop off before it boots by holding the power button down until it powers down.
Before you put the heat sink and fan in place clean the thermal grease off of the pad that contacts the processor and put new grease on it. You can buy thermal grease at most computer stores, it usually comes in a hypodermic applicator.
Put the heatsink in place and secure it with the four screws. Plug the fan back into the motherboard, the connector is keyed and can’t go in backward.
Hold the keyboard over the open hole and slip the ribbon cable into it’s connector. Once it’s in, press the lip back down on the connector to secure the cable.
Slip the keyboard into the opening, back end first, then press down on the front edge until the clips grab.
Flip the laptop over and secure the two screws that hold the keyboard in.
That’s it, you’re done.
Let me know if you have any trouble. As I said, I may post some pictures to help with this if you think you need them.
I got the new cpu in and it’s appears to be working fine. It’s correctly detected as a 1.0 Ghz Pentium III in both bios and system properties.
I had a little bit of a frightening experience though. After installing the cpu as directed, I saw the gateway flash screen briefly, when suddenly the computer totally shut down. I initially thought that maybe the cpu pins were misaligned and such. I reinserted the cpu a second time making sure all pins are straight and aligned. Next, I turned on the power button. All I saw was a black screen and the harddrive and battery lights were completely off. I was crossing my fingers hoping that I didn’t damage the mainboard and such. I checked for signs of bad wire connections and burnt smells. I saw nothing wrong. Shortly, after I thought maybe it was a power failure since I didn’t see the harddrive and battery lights come on. So, I attached the power adapter to the laptop, and I saw the gateway flash screen come on. I then power down the laptop and disconnected the power adapter. Next, I powered up the laptop and saw no flash screen. It was then that I realize that the battery was at 25% . This was the problem. I plugged in the power adapter and recharged the battery so it was at green and not orange. I unplugged the power adapter after the battery was fully charged. Now, I could once again power back up using just the battery.
The keyboard clips were also a real pain. I had to pry them out individually before I could even get the keyboard out. As a result, I had to completely unscrew all the other screws and completely opened up the laptop.
Well, all seems fine now after about 1 hr or so of troubleshooting.
I’m wondering if a bios upgrade is also necessary and what changes do I need to make in the bios itself to accomodate the new cpu. My bios is 22.10.05 (k22). It seems to operate fine without tinkering with the bios. What about power settings in windows itself under Power Options/Power Schemes? Should I set it to Portable/laptop?
I think my bios version is the most recent already.
Yes, staring at a black screen can be a sphincter-tightening experience, can’t it?
If you are seeing the processor detected in both bios and system properties as a 1 GHz device then you are already properly set to use it at it’s max speed. The SL53S is a speedstep device, meaning that it will step down to preserve power. I don’t know if your last processor was a speedstep device or not, but, if not, then the speedstep drivers are not loaded. No big deal. To load them you could theoretically delete your system devices in device manager and let them be redetected, but I don’t know specifically which ones to dump. Otherwise, they’ll be installed next time you reimage you system.
As I remember, when I did mine, it was initially detected as a 700 MHz device in Windows, even though bios showed it as 1GHz. I deleted the processor in device manager and rebooted, and viola, all was well.
If you pulled the case completely apart to get the keyboard out, then you already know what to do should you decide to install a mini-PCI wireless NIC and internal antenna; install the NIC in the mini-PCI slot, pull the case apart, attach the antennas and route them around the inside of the case.
I’m telling you, the 5300 is the computer that would not die. I’ve looked at upgrading, but never seen anything that justified the cost. Glad it worked out for you.
I see that the Speedstep properties are detected in the bios and not windows possibly suggesting that my old 650 Pentium III processor wasn’t speedstep capable. However, I have formatted my drive in the past. If everything is working fine then I’ll leave it at that. No need to fix something that isn’t broken.
As soon as I get some cash, I’ll look into replacing my wireless router and implementing the mini-PCI wirless NIC. Right now, I’ll continue to ask other friends of mine if they have a wireless router that I can borrow to do some troubleshooting.
I know what you mean about the cost of laptops. I’m a little surprised that on average the prices of laptops are still fairly expensive compared to desktops. That’s for sure that some upgrades don’t justify the cost.
Well, the new processor works great, and I noticed that windows and some applications boot up faster. So, that’s definitely nice since I use the laptop for just about everything.
Mine was turning on and off apparently by itself and driving me crazy. By accident I found out how it works.
The icons are touch sensitive. just touch the icon itself abouve yourkdeypad and this turns on or off mousepad. Also used for the other icons. i.e. mute, save, wifi antenna.