Did i kill my burner (verbatim 321240a) ? Help!

vbimport

#1

I just attempted to 'fix' my Cendyne drive (verbatim 321240a) and make it a liteon via a flash upgrade. I made a floppy in win xp that would boot to dos, and put the mtkflash program on it, as well as teh .exe version of the liteon flash program.

Being a good boy, i first wanted to backup my firmware, but somehow THIS WENT TERRIBLY WRONG!. :a

So i'm in dos, and i type MTKFLASH 4 R /B /M old.bin
and it starts backing up the file. It stops part way through, and as I suspected, it had run out of room on the floppy. So I used the erase command to remove the liteon flash program, and then ran the mtkflash program again (with the same tags). This time, it successfully read all 512k (my old bios) and put it on the floppy. When it was done, i figured i'd boot back into windows, and move this backedup file to my hard drive, and put the liteon flash program back on the floppy disk.

I popped the disk out, and hit control-alt-delete. The comp restarts and immediately, i notice is that the green light on my cd burner is on. It has stayed this way every since! Windows takes like 20 minutes to boot (it lags trying to read this cd burner I suspect). I can't get the door on the drive to open either. Windows doesn't even know there is a drive.

Keep in mind, :confused: i NEVER EVEN FLASHED DATA TO THD DRIVE!:confused: I simply read stuff out of teh drive to a floppy, and suddenly my burner is messed up.

I really don't know what i did wrong, or more importantly, how i can fix this. I've tried booting off the floppy and running the liteon flash program, but it doesn't even see that i have a cd-rw (it only sees my main cd reader).

I also tried using the file (the one i read out of my burner to teh floppy), to send that to the cd burner. That was successful (i.e. mtkflash "x" w /b filename.bin worked), but it didn't fix the problem. The burner is still not recognized, and the light is still on (all the time!), and the drive won't open.

Has anyone had any similar problems. PLEASE HELP. Thanks.

-Jonathan


#2

I had this happen twice and bondit had it happen as well. There are probably a bunch of us who had it happen and we fixed it.

What I did was jumper the first two pins on the left side of the burner (stage right) where there are three sets of two pins

. . .
. . . it is the bottom two that you jumper. This is what is left:

. . .
.

Then boot up into DOS and use MTKFLASH and the formula

MTKFLASH X W /B XXX.BIN

Also please get a decent BIN file from here. I used Zs0G.BIN and Zs0J.BIN as it happened to me twice. Also the 0 is the number 0 not the letter O.

Finally, this is just my preference but I do not use a floppy but create the files to be flashed or when I create a BIN on my hard drive in a special folder like 1temp so there is never a question of room and also I prefer working off of C:. Maybe it doesn’t mean anything and it is just superstition but I restored my Liteon two times already and so I keep to that.

If you get jammed and want to e-mail me you can at klinn32m@rcn.com.

Best of luck.:eek: :bow: :bow:


#3

Finally, this is just my preference but I do not use a floppy but create the files to be flashed on my hard drive in a special folder like 1temp so there is never a question of room and also I prefer working off of C:. Maybe it doesn’t mean anything and it is just superstition but I restored my Liteon two times already and so I keep to that.

To use the HDD when you boot into DOS, make sure that at least one partition of your HDD is FAT16 or FAT 32. This partition (regardless of what it was named as by Windows) will show up as C: when you boot into DOS.


#4

Originally posted by KenL

Also please get a decent BIN file from here. I used Zs0G.BIN and Zs0J.BIN as it happened to me twice. Also the 0 is the number 0 not the letter O.

KenL - You forgot to add a link to ‘here’. :slight_smile: The suspense is killing me! Anyways, you used 'Zs0G.BIN and Zs0J.BIN ', but what drive did you have? the verbatim 321240a? Those two .bin files are for the LiteOn LTR-40125S. I have a 32x drive - should i still use those files (is the point of doing this to ‘overclock’? or just to use the better LTR-32123S firmware? And (in the case of the latter one, http://home.online.no/~magdyr/Firmware/Lite-On/LTR-32123S/bin/ ) which file do i want? What’s the difference between 32XS0F.zip and xs05.zip ?!?

And do you happen to know what exactly that jumped thing does?

Also, my hard drive is not fat16 or fat 32, and i don’t really want to create a new partition, or install another hard drive ( i have a few 300 megs somewhere), so i think i’ll just use floppies, unless someone strongly recommends against it.

Thanks in advance.
-Jonathan


#5

I had this problem with my Liteon 40125S drive. Floppies are fine by the way. Your drive already is DEAD. I thought it was a rebadgered Liteon and you had done some kind of a flash to kill it so I just told you what I did the two times that I had a steady green light on my Liteon that occurred because I was flashing and I fried the thing.

I don’t know why what I did worked. There was some mention of how re-flashing worked on some older Liteon’s but it jumpered different pins as the configuration was different. I therefore played around with different jumper settings and finally got one to work. Later on when I again fried my Liteon trying to flash I simply did the procedure with the jumper over the same pins and it worked again. In the middle I had discussed this with bondit (who visits this formum) and he used the same technique to fix a Liteon 40x. :confused:


#6

Originally posted by KenL
Your drive already is DEAD. I thought it was a rebadgered Liteon and you had done some kind of a flash to kill it so I just told you what I did the two times that I had a steady green light on my Liteon that occurred because I was flashing and I fried the thing.

My drive IS a rebadgered Liteon. So the other questions in the earlier post still apply (i.e. where do i get the drivers, what is the difference between those two files… etc.)

-Jonathan


#7

xs0x is the newest firmware and I suggest you use that firmware.

good idea: put the mtkflash and the bin file on another floppy than the one you are booting with.

your drive will crash if it have to wait when reading from or writing to flashrom…this happened with you since it had to wait when the floppy got full…


#8

KenL -

If i set my jumped settings to the ones you told me, then what do i put as X, below:

MTKFLASH X W /B XXX.BIN

If the jumpers are set like that, it teh drive still secondary slave (i.e. X = 4)?


#9

It is not those pins that are jumpered; Master/Slave/Cable . There should be three sets to the left of those that are not for Master/Slave/Cable Select and it is those which are jumpered across horizontally as I showed you. You therefore need another set of jumpers. You leave the ones for Master/Slave the same as they are originally.

Sorry if I was confusing you. Do you see those extra pins on the far side? three rows of two. That’s the ones not the Master/Slave ones.


#10

Well your last message came too late… I changed the jumpers on the Master/Slave/Cable set of pins:o. Now i see what pins you were talking about.
I Booted into dos, flashed it, shutdown, put the jumpers back to the slave setting, and started up. It worked! Perhaps it was just the action of flashing it with new firmware. :slight_smile:

Thanks for all your help guys (KenL and OC-Freak).

P.S. OC-Freak - add to your mtkflash tutorial a warning about an inturrupting a read-out. Remind people to be sure they have atleast 512k free on the disk when they do it.


#11

Congratualations I am sure that you are relieved. But did you change the jumpers at all even between Master and Slave? Did you turn them sideways? If so did you remove them after that and if so, when. Can you explain exactly how you did it.:confused:


#12

I did change the master/slave jumpers - i turned them sideways :o , and flashed teh drive that way. The green light was on the whole time until right after the flash.

Thanks again.


#13

Well, that was great. What BIN did you use? Do you now have a Liteon? If so, do you want to push the envelope up to a 48x. Now that you know how to resusitate a wounded Liteon, it may not be so dangerous. I told you, I almost killed mine twice.:bigsmile:

I would like to know what firmware though.:cool:


#14

I used XS0X.BIN (same version as the one you sent me, except i downloaded it from the web – the version you sent me was slightly different and had been changed recently - the version from the web had been changed on june 5th).

So the comp now thinks i have a Lite-On LTR-32123S. I guess this is fine. I haven’t actually tried burning a cd since the included nero version only works with ‘verbatim’ drives, so i’m downloading some new software. I’m pretty sure that you can’t overclock this drive, so i don’t think i’ll take any chances.


#15

I have this same problem with my LTR-40125w!

I don’t understand how you jumpered yours, but I’d sure appreciate the help!

My drive isn’t even recognized in the BIOS!

Please help!


#16

Here is what I used and I got two successes. The set up is the far left, leave Master, Slave, Cable Direct alone.

PINS =

. . .
. . .

I jumpered so it looked like this

. . .
.

Then I booted into DOS and flashed the drive. The green light went away and I re-booted into Windows and my CDRW was fine.

Good luck.