Depressingly hideous 12x Verbatim India MCC03 RG20 on LiteOn DH20A3P

First of all sorry if this is in the wrong place, newbie alert lol.

I recently bought a spanking new IDE LiteOn DH20A3P ( XY13) as I have 100’s of data discs on Ridisc G04/5 to backup & my old SOHW 832S (VS04) is a bit slow & was crossflashed from a 812S, made region free & I have no idea if flashing it again will be risky.

I bought a shedload of Verbatim India 16x -R MCC03 RG20 (ze0599-dvr-J47c1).
I wanted to check the quality & also try different software as I’ve been using Nero 6 ultra but got hold of Nero 8 Ultra, & then reading some posts downloaded ImgBurn, (I haven’t posted the nero6 scans).

I’m mainly bothered by archival life as I can’t afford to lose the data I’ll be backing up but these 12x burns look awful to me & I am gutted, I was hoping for much better quality :(.

The only ones that aren’t really hideous are the 8x burns, I’ll burn some more as a double check but here are my hideously depressing scans:

All are verified, burnt with DH20A3P ( XY13) & are a 4486Mb file (iso of a dvd vid)

Nero 8 ultra, 12x

TRT

reader - 832S

ImgBurn 12x

After headbutting the keyboard several times I thought I’d try 8x.

Nero seemed to be better than ImgBurn, but after reading so many praises for it I stuck with it in these:

TRT

Reader 832S:

To double check I burnt another at 8x.

TRT

Reader 832S:

This looked a lil dodgy so I ran it again & got this:

Why is this media so bad with my writer? I mean i was hoping to run atleast 12x :sad:

I wish I’d spent a bit more on a better writer :frowning:
I only didn’t as I’ll be upgrading to SATA DVDRW at some point when I build another box (i.e. when I have the cash).

Still, those 8x scans don’t look too bad to me, how many others of you have managed a 0 Quality score at 12x though? Is there a prize lol?

There’s a thread at the Blank Media section regarding “Worst Scans” and believe me, those are totally crap burns. Errors in the millions even at optimal burn speeds.

As for the media… others like Made in India Verbs, while others despise them. There might be a few more factors such as power/cabling/etc issues that affect the burn. For what it’s worth I burn all my 16x media at 8x for peace of mind, and although it takes a little more time to finish a disc, I’m pretty sure that I don’t need to scan all of them after burning. Or if I’m on a backup/burn fest I use multiple drives at a time, 2 burning different things and 1 or 2 readers scanning stuff.

Try a newer or custom firmware (you could find some by searching the forum) if you want to isolate the problem to the media itself. It may not be 100% accurate but I’ve had LiteOn DVD writers before and they didn’t burn as nice as their SATA counterparts.

Have you enabled Smartburn, Hyper Tuning and Online Hyper Tuning using the settings utility?

http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/settings-utility-liteon-drives-v1-1-0-a-241940/

:bow: Thanks evo69!

Oh no I haven’t, I hadn’t seen that :bow: I have no idea what the tuning ones are but they sound cool lol.
Thanks!

Hyper tuning adjusts the burn to the particular media, and the online version recalibrates the burn throughout the entire burning process.

  1. Calm down.

  2. In the future, until you become an expert, ask people about their experience with specific media and burner combinations before spending a lot of money on one type of disc. There are lots of burners that don’t do so well with MCC 03RG20 (including those made by CMC and Prodisc), so this is not that unusual a problem. It’s not an MII specific problem. People should stop blaming India. Verbatim MCC 004 (DVD+R) almost always tends to burn way better than MCC 03RG20 (DVD-R). You could have avoided this headache if you had asked first instead of buying on impulse.

  3. Forget about the settings utility. What you need to do is download the EEPROM utility (check the sticky threads in the Lite-On forum), which contains everything the obsolete settings utility does and more. You should first make a backup of your drive’s EEPROM before changing any settings or doing anything else. Then you should try enabling Online Hypertuning (OHT) under the Settings tab, and you should also “Reset Learnt Media” and “Reset Hypertuning” under the EEPROM tab (I find that Lite-On drives sometimes benefit from being “cleaned out”, even when they are new). Remember, don’t mess around with anything until you have backed up your EEPROM first! If anything goes wrong, you will need that to recover the drive and put things back the way they were. I can’t emphasize this enough. Never, ever, ever, do anything with a new Lite-On without backing up the EEPROM (and the firmware, if it isn’t downloadable). That’s always the first thing you do after installing it. If you’ve done this already, then good. If you haven’t, DO IT NOW!

  4. If turning on Online Hyper Tuning (OHT) doesn’t help, then you can go one step further and turn on Force Hyper Tuning (FHT). Read the Lite-On FAQ for explanations of what each setting does.

whats with the jitter reporting?

ive found with my liteon drives SB- On, FHT - Off, OHT - On, OS - Off works for me.

after resetting the learned media and clearing OPC you may need to do a few burns to see the results,

Well from my observations the 8x does indeed look much better.

I would forget all the stuff you’ve just been told about hyper this and online super hyper that. It doesn’t work well for mediocre burns IMO. For burns that are ridiculously bad, using those setting can work to make a more decent, workingburn. It’s my opinion but I honestly think it’s a waste of time. (Sorry negritude :p)

You already have a winning combination - 8x burns. 8x is the best speed for most writers on most media anyways. Also to make you feel better - your supposed 12x burns don’t even start @ 12x. If I remember correctly, on my Liteon (18x drive) it started @ like 6x and slowly reached up to 12x. The time difference between 8x and 12x is minimal on many drives.

Thanks for your replies!

Basically after reading jubjubbirds post I went off, downloaded the EEPROM utility & backed it up (several times lol, ) & downloaded the firmware from liteon (glad I did that).

I posted them all here (all have SB on), but here’s indivudal links if you don’t like scrolling lol:

settings : SB/on , FHT/off , OHT/off, OS/off
Create disc written at 8x
http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160443

settings : SB/on , FHT/off , OHT/off, OS/off
Create disc written at 12x
http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160444

settings : SB/on , FHT/off , OHT/off, OS/off
Create disc written at 16x
http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160445

I wanted to check that but with using ImgBurn to write an iso image of a video 4484Mb like the above posts & running Disc quality a couple of times:

8x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160446

12x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160447

16x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160448

I then turned FHT & OHT on:

8x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160450

12x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160451

16x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160452

Then left OHT on but with FHT off:

8x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160453

12x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index21.html#post2160454

16x http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index22.html#post2160455

The jitter reporting is on all those as I updated the CD DVD speed from the version I got with nero 8 ultra to the one on this site.

I’ve not tried resetting the learned media and clearing OPC yet, wish I’d done that before I’d done all that, should I do it now?

Which is the best burn?
From what I see, 8x only SB on, 12x FHT & OHT on, 16x only SB or SB + OHT on, so I’d go with 8x only SB on but I’ve read on here somewhere that PIFs are more important (although someone said PIE’s can become PIFs) so the 12x burn with FHT + OHT might be best.

I’m off to buy some Verbs +R later & see what they’re like, I’m still waiting to hear from Verbatim on why they have a lifetime guarantee on their 16x -R discs but not on their +R ones.

Thanks for your help!!!

In my opinion, after a quick look, the best results you have posted are the 8x burns with OHT On and FHT either Off or On, i.e. this and this.

Thanks!

Interestingly (or not) I scanned the 8x FTH & OHT disc with my 832S, I know this doesn’t mean much but they weren’t as good (PIF count) as when it scanned the original 8x SB only scans above, although I’m guessing from what I’ve read the spikes are probably reading errors.




[quote=gjazz;2160525]Interestingly (or not) I scanned the 8x FTH & OHT disc with my 832S, I know this doesn’t mean much but they weren’t as good (PIF count) as when it scanned the original 8x SB only scans above, although I’m guessing from what I’ve read the spikes are probably reading errors.[/quote] I don’t like the dip in the Transfer Rate Test nor do I like the jitter in your 8x burn with FHT and OHT disabled.

Yep, I’d just say to stick it out with 8x or so on these discs. There’s just not much of a reason to try to fix the weird issues with that batch of MCC 03RG20 above 8x, and it doesn’t appear to be an easily fixed quirk.

Hopefully, your batch of MCC 004 is more capable and can cope with above an 8x write speed [when you so desire to write faster than 8x], though, again, there’s not too terribly much time gained with the higher speeds.

[off topic][QUOTE=troy512;2160387]whats with the jitter reporting?[/QUOTE]True jitter reporting wasn’t supported until the 6S [maybe 5S?] drives, and 3S/2S/1S drives report garbage data for jitter. :doh:

Also, the version of DiscSpeed used for the earlier scans don’t support jitter scanning on the DH20A3 drives natively [as explained in a later post by gjazz]. :iagree:
[/off-topic]

[QUOTE=troy512;2160387]ive found with my liteon drives SB- On, FHT - Off, OHT - On, OS - Off works for me.[/QUOTE]

:iagree:

Smart Burn (SB) = ON
Over Speed (OS) = OFF
Force Hyper Tuning (FHT) = OFF
Online Hyper Tuning (OHT) = ON

That really should be the Lite-On default settings.

You only need to turn on FHT when you have some particularly problematic and/or weird and unknown disks.

You don’t seem to have a clear cut best burn IMO even with all those special options selected. It’s still all pretty random. The writer just can’t deal with those discs consistently.

I also recently got a 100 pack of Verb DVD-R. My Pioneer and Liteon were producing PIF clumps on all burns and the PIE was high on all burns. I switched to my LG 4167B @ 8x and have not had any problems. No PIF clumps and much lower errors + jitter.

[QUOTE=cd pirate;2160684]… I recently got a 100 pack of Verb DVD-R. My Pioneer and Liteon were producing PIF clumps on all burns and the PIE was high on all burns. I switched to my LG 4167B @ 8x and have not had any problems. No PIF clumps and much lower errors + jitter.[/QUOTE]
O/T: I have some MAP7 MCC-003 that scan much like the OP’s discs… I’ll have to try them with my LG’s.

Besides the dip in a TRT and the strange jitter avg. i don’t think they are too bad. [B]I’d leave it up to real life experience.[/B] Perhaps the reader/burner isn’t the best or it may be a “bad” reader and “good” writer - or the other way. I have MII 03RG20 that burn well in all my drives incl. the LiteOn. Scans aren’t as great as the printable ones but they seem to work just as well. [B]I will however check them now and then[/B] :slight_smile:

Thanks for all your help, advice is much appreciated.

I bought a shedload (although I can take these back as I went to the store) of Verb Taiwan 16x +R MCC004 (PAP691MD101935Z95) which I think is CMC.

I’ve only burnt one so far at 8x & it wasn’t going bad til the end where it gets a lil hideous, along with a dip in trt.

http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index22.html#post2161096

I also ran a test on some +R DLs I’ve had for a while, Datasafe Ritek Taiwan 2.4x DVD+RL RITEK D01 (J3-09D02504065873A09), burnt at 2x

http://club.cdfreaks.com/f44/lite-dh-20a3p-h-s-l-post-your-scans-here-222747/index22.html#post2161103

I’m going to burn a couple more to check & then try new firmware codeking has kindly pointed me to (XV6D_HT743).

[QUOTE=gjazz;2160461]…I’m still waiting to hear from Verbatim on why they have a lifetime guarantee on their 16x -R discs but not on their +R ones.[/QUOTE]

:disagree:

That’s nonsensical. What gave you that idea?

:o
http://club.cdfreaks.com/f33/difference-between-dvd-r-dvd-r-103718/index9.html#post2161128

:doh: