Copying Scratched CD's


Do you know the settings I should prefer while copying a scratched game cd (not copy-protected) ? I am using TDK 24/10/40b CD-RW and LG 52X CD-ROM .

i would use a writer as reader (most oftem this drives can read scratched cds better)

maybe FES: 10 retrys (hardware)
FES off …

both are imho good options which i would try.


ok thank you but I have one more question , what about the read options like , “force raw reading” , " write uncorrected data" or "try to correct it " ? should I select any of them ?

force raw and try to correct it is imho the best for your purpose. (if the cd has no copyprotection which works with “bad blocks”)
i have forgotten to mention. read the cd at lower speed. 1x speed is good.


okey that’s great , using CD-RW as a reader and selecting “try to correct” did the job, thank you very much , now I can play Full Throttle :slight_smile: (while I am using CD-ROM as a reader I couldn’t see the Lucas Arts logo but now I am nearly finished the game )

np :wink:

Try cleaning up the surface! The cheapest would appear the best “Brasso”

Originally posted by catch22
Try cleaning up the surface! The cheapest would appear the best “Brasso”

Oh gees, can we put this to bed? Brasso? Toothpaste? What next?
Replace it! Various recommendations and products exist that may actually damage the disc. Record a CD-R backup if the disc is still readable. Order a replacement if it is not.

It is best not to attempt to repair scratched discs, even though “experts” suggest polishing with toothpaste (some even recommend brands!), car polish, or the use of commercial scratch repair kits. Although visible results may appear to be satisfactory, performance in the CD-ROM drive actually degrades. This happens for three reasons.

First, polishing does not actually remove the scratch, but instead replaces one big scratch with many, many small scratches. Although they are not visible to the eye, optical scattering from the multiple scratches reduces the intensity of the laser beam even more than the original scratch did.

Second, polishing locally reduces the thickness of the polycarbonate substrate and consequently modifies the optical path length. This causes focussing problems. The numerical aperture, or f-stop, of the objective lens in the pickup limits the depth of focus to only two micrometers at the critical pit-land surface. Focus servo systems are fast enough to track once-around variations from warped discs, but serious focus problem can occur if the disc is thinned only in a small region.

Third, any substance used to fill the scratch probably has an index of refraction different from that of the polycarbonate substrate, causing optical distortion in the focussed laser spot. This results in jitter, radial tracking, and focus problems.

If the disc is unique and unreadable, then a new draft Standard, ISO/DIS 12024, suggests cleaning using a soft, lintfree cloth and soapy water. The cloth must not contain any particles or hard fibers that could scratch the disc. The cleaning agent must be soap, such as Ivory Liquid; do not use detergents or solvents such as alcohol. Distilled water is best, since tap water may contain impurities that could remain on the disc. Gently wipe the wet cloth in a radial direction, being careful to avoid any pressure on the label surface. Then dry the disc. Do not allow water to remain on the disc.

If the disc is scratched, leave it alone. Avoid waxes and secret solutions that usually increase error rates, even though the visual appearance of the disc seems to improve. Prevent dirt and damage by keeping discs in jewel cases when not in use. Handle them only by the edge; never touch either the readout or label surfaces. Never write on the label surface with a solvent based pen, such as the popular Sharpie. Use only pens with water based inks, and write only on the clear inner ring if possible.

Severely scratched or otherwise damaged discs should be replaced. If they are unique, attempt data recovery in a high quality drive. Well-intentioned repair efforts usually make things worse, not better.
Just one opinion from AKL-IT

And some more information can be found at our article section:

just make a backup then put the origonal in the draw thats what this site is all about or so i thought.

brasso t-cut etc are last resort if you use them make a hd backup strait away
cdr’s are cheap and the need for backups are ever more important