Compression Artifacts

What are compression artifacts? Are there names for different types of artifacts arising from compression?

I backed up the Labyrinth with 1Click with a compression of like 37% if I remember correctly. When I watch the movie I see a very brief white flash at the bottom of the screen only when the camera switches from face to face or cuts from angle to angle. While it is not a perfect copy this movie is still most certainly watchable.

My other question is regarding Dual-Layer DVD media. No compression should be needed here right? This should make it a perfect copy with no artifacts, right??

Sorry, I’m not able to answer to the first question.

For the second one, the answer is yes: if the copy is identical to the original (no editing and no compression), and if the original don’t have artifacts, then with DL discs you are safe :iagree:

Beware: in DL discs you must set correctly the layer break, or playback will not be good (there will be a stuttering during the layer switch).

And use only good quality DL discs :wink:

Compression Artifacts

To answer the second question, hard to say. It’s highly subjective and also very debatable about whether one can make a ‘perfect’ copy. Some argue that any processing of the source will result in corruption, and I certainly would not argue that point. Other’s will say that it is possible, as errors ‘can’t be seen on my playback device’.

Artifacts are things such as macroblocking(or the blockiness that you see in the background of a dark scene). So the white flash in my opinion is a malfunction. It may have to do with any number of things the amount of compression used, bad media, or firmware are the major culprits. 37% in my opinion is high for a transcoder, even a really good one like 1 click. (there are others who will disagree im sure, but as i said its only my opinion). If you are going to back up a movie with that high of a compression try using a program like (dvd rebuilder and hc encoder), bundled free software an works quite well on high compression titles. The only draw back is that it takes forever to use. Try and do a search on it from google.
To add to what everyone else has said about the dl media. I use verbatim dl 2.4x. It works really well for me. The only problem is that you have to have a standalone that can support it. I tried it on a new JVC, and on my XBOX and neither would play the second layer, and most of the time didnt recognize the disk. I tried everything from changing the media to setting the book type and none of it worked.I ended up buying a high def stand alone player ($100) that would support the dl before i actually got it to work. About setting the layer break i dont know about. But the vso copy to dvd se software that was free and bundled with the package from 1 click works like a dream.

The truth is with quality dl media being so expensive and having to find players that will support it. Its more trouble than its worth, at least to me.

[QUOTE=The truth is with quality dl media being so expensive and having to find players that will support it. Its more trouble than its worth, at least to me.[/QUOTE]
Well why would it be so difficult to find a stand alone player that supports this? I own many original copy movies that are DL and play just fine on my 5-year old Sony. Perhaps some of the players just have a hard time with the media, but why would DL media be any different than a DL original movie? And so far as I know 1click sets the layer break automatically when backing-up a movie.

Some media has higher PIF levels than others, right? People seem to believe Verbatim tends to produce good results. I don’t even know what PIF is but I do know it is undesirable effects on image quality. Firmware can also be a source of PIF??

The writer I just bought is a Samsung S162L with Lightscribe. I think it is kind of comforting that this drive comes with firmware LiveUpdate software. The review I just read seems to indicate that this drive has higher than normal PIF but could be resolved with future firmware.

By original copy you mean “hollywood pressed” correct? I apologize, but I dont have a short answer for you just becuase i am really big in explaining things and taking forever to do so (if you cant already tell by my earlier post). In short A hollywood original is made and formatted a different way than a dl burn. If you try and put a dl burn into a 5 year old player it will more than likely spit it back out at you. The player that you are using has to be capable of reading a dl+r or dl-r, or you have to set the burners book type (not all burners are capable of booktype setting) on dl media to dvd-rom. Book type is basically a format flag that tells the player how to read the disk.
Check this out or do a search of the forums and you will find more than enough info on pif levels to give you a nice headache (I know everytime i try and read up on the pif standards i leave the comp with a massive migraine) <>
You are correct verbatim the most highly recommended blank dl media at this forum. Taiyo Yuden is probably the most recommended single layer blank media. Both produce higher quality and more reliable burns than any of the other media.
Poorly created media as well as older firmware tend to have a higher pif level