[QUOTE=negritude;2599694]Because in the old days, the house brands were often equal and sometimes better than what you could easily find under a name brand. As name brands started going to hell, house brands became a refuge for finding media that was disappearing.
Office Depot “house brand” media was often great burning RICOHJPN R03.
OfficeMax “house brand” media could be great burning OPTODISC R008 and even MCC 02RG20.
Fry’s Electronics “house brand” media was often good burning SONY16D1 and SONY D21.
There is over a decade of information in the threads on this site, detailing all the analysis that went into discerning exactly what media was to be found under what brand and under which particular circumstances. All we wanted was the best media, no matter what so-called “brand” it fell under. If it was determined that you could find good media under a house brand, we bought it. We didn’t give a damn about brands. Brands don’t mean anything. Media codes and manufacturers do.[/QUOTE]
I’ll handle your comment in a lump sum It wasn’t until I had joined last year after I was getting as high as a 80%, if not more, failure rate on a Pioneer burner and a DVSKOREA burner on my standalone which I think was pretty old so probably couldn’t handle 16x media very reliably.
Since I was getting a high failure rate after going through a RiDisc / Bulkpaq 50 packs, I decided to join Club MyCE - Not only to get more knowledge of what discs are good and what are garbage - But to share my own knowledge.
Now interestingly, all of my discs have pretty much failed verification on ImgBurn on my retired Phillips and current BenQ burner (when burned on a DVSKOREA burner). Yet verified okay on my mums and nannans laptop.
So I mused some burners are tolerant enough to read a DVSKOREA management area whilst others won’t go past the 10%. But I digress - I did learn that the CMC MAG AM3 discs dye itself is constantly being reformulated and was far too erratic to be stable.
I have had, however, excellent results using the RitekF1 / RitekF16 dye and MBI dye codes, but I’m starting to become nervous by the blue streaks on the RitekF1 discs - Which I’m not sure if this is a result of the recorder burning the disc incorrectly or dye formulation correctly. If someone can shed some light on this topic, I’ll be thankful
However the purpose of this topic was to spread the message that if, for example, Memorex is using a CMC MAG code, I will not buy it, but I will consider buying it if I know they have outsourced to say MBI or RitekF code. Whereas for example Maxell has used the Ritek codes for a few years now - So I can assure myself I will get a Ritek.
Imitation is the same deal - It is more than likely you will get a MBI code.
Has that cleared things up a little?