Cdwriters (liteon especially) vs media

vbimport

#1

i just want to see who has trouble with certain media. it seems that alot of liteon users have trouble burning azo/cyanine cdrs.

feel free to comment on media you like or dislike.


#2

Ok, good results:

[ul]
[li]Verbatim Metal Azo (Azo)
[/li][li]Taiyo Yuden (cyanine)
[/li][li]TDK 32x (phthalo)
[/li][li]Moser Baer (phthalo)
[/li][li]Prodisc 24x (phthalo)
[/li][/ul]
Bad results:

[ul]
[li]Prodisc 16x (phthalo)
[/li][li]Verbatim Super Azo 24x (Azo)
[/li][li]CMC (phthalo)
[/li][li]Digital Storage Technology (phthalo)
[/li][/ul]

So you can see, there’re Azos, cyanins and phthalos that work great, but there’re also some crap phthalos or media that the LiteOn dislikes. Verbatim Super Azo work very well in Plextor drives, but I can’t recommend using them in newer LiteOn


#3

very interesting. heres my good and bads

Goods
Verbatim metal azo (mitsubishi chemical corp)
Verbatim super azo (mitsubishi chemical corp)
TDK cyanine (Ritek)
Pioneer dark blue cyanine (made by pioneer video corp)

Bads
CMC pthalo
star media pthalo (prodisc technology)
pioneer pthalo cdrs (made by pioneer video corp)

some cdrs that are meant to be good are Ricoh, Tayo yuden and mitsui but i cannot find any where i live.


#4

Note that Verbatim Super Azo are read with 100% good sectors in the liteon itself, but: My Toshiba reports yellow sectors in the inner portion of the disc! And the c1 error rate is too high at the beginning. If read faster than 16x, the error rate increases (unlike Taiyo Yuden etc, which have a constant error rate, regardless what speed they’re read at)
I had some Pioneer CD-Rs (came bundled with my dvd writer). They were CMC…

Ricoh: I only have 12x certified. At 16x, it writes crap, at 24x, it writes at good quality till about 60 mins, then c1 error rate increases a bit.


#5

Here is my results (when discs is written at speeds that they are certified for):

Good:
Taiyo Yuden (cyanine)
Ritek (all types)
Prodisc (phthalo and cyanine)
Mitsui Toatsu (phthalo)
Kodak (phthalo)
Postech (cyanine)
TDK (phthalo)
Fujifilm (phthalo)
Richo (phthalo, often made by ritek)
Princo (phthalo ATIP but looks like cyanine)

so-so results:

Verbatim Datalifeplus Super AZO (cyanine)
Moser baer india (phthalo)
Multimedia masters & machinery (phthalo)
Fornet internatinal (phthalo and some cyanine)
Acer media tech (phthalo)
Gigastorage (cyanine)
CMC Magnetics (phthalo, only some)
Vivastar (cyanine)

Bad results:

Pioneer (cyanine)
Verbatim datalifeplus Metal AZO (cyanine)
TDK (cyanine)
Fornet international (Cyanine, not all types)
Multimedia masters & machinery (cyanine)
CMC Magnetics (cyanine and some phthalo)
Sony (cyanine)
Xitek (cyanine)

I don’t think many Cyanine discs is made for high speeds / newer writers.

and “God of burning” don’t continue your phthalo sucks and cyanine rules discussion too long…you’ve been banned once…


#6

First I must say, I can’t find something wrong about this thread, since it doesn’t only spread this “phthalo=crap”-thing, but seems to gather information as to which brands of phthalo / cyanine liteon writers like.

PostTech? They work? They produced “medium write error” here…can you please post a c1 scan of a posttech?

Verbatim DatalifePlus Metal Azo: Don’t write at 16x. Try to write them at 24x, and don’t use the bad ones made in India around Q4/2001.


#7

Wasn’t referring to this thread only… but 50% of CD Pirate/God of burning’s post had something to do with “phthalo is bad, cyanine/azo rule”. (Yes, I’ve read most of his posts lately).

Haven’t tried to scan for c1 errors…


#8

Can someone please tel me what software to use for C1 & C2 error scanning.


#9

I’m not a LiteOn user, I’m currently a LG user (because of the LiteOn’s price here…), and my experiences with media are:

Good: (No particular order)

Mitsui (Phthalo)
Prodisc (Phthalo)
DST “True DST” (Phthalo)
Kodak (Phthalo)
Gigastorage (Phthalo)
Princo (Hybrid, Phthalo ATIP)
SKC (Phthalo, Cyanine)
Taiyo Yuden (Cyanine)
MMM&M (Phthalo, made in Brazil)
Ritek (Cyanine, some Phthalo)
Samsung by “Unknown Manufacturer” (Phthalo)
Ricoh (Phthalo)

Bad: (No particular order too)

Fornet (Phthalo)
DST ATIP “Made by Vanguard” (Phthalo looks, Cyanine ATIP)
Sony (Cyanine)
TDK (Cyanine)
CMC (Cyanine, Phthalo)’

Just my experience…


#10

Do C1/C2-Scans with WSES (send PM with email address to me!)


#11

Do C1/C2-Scans with WSES (send PM with email address to me!)


#12

My 2 cents worth:
Makes absolutely no difference what “type” of media you use as long as you use it appropriately. Burn at, or below, the rated speed and all is well. People seem to be rating media according to how well it tolerates being burned beyond it’s rating. Not fair to the media and also not meaningful in general.


#13

rdgrimes - true, I have rated the media after that rule…

My rating is when discs is written at the speeds they are certified for.


#14

Originally posted by OC-Freak
Wasn’t referring to this thread only… but 50% of CD Pirate/God of burning’s post had something to do with “phthalo is bad, cyanine/azo rule”. (Yes, I’ve read most of his posts lately).

ok, i may have been a little over the top previously but i will not make any more supposedly silly comments in the future. instead ill try and help people.

:bigsmile: