CDs are longer lasting than DVDs?

Is this still true?

Cd’s have existed for a longer period of time and we have many early examples that are still good after many years. So real world data, rather than just simulated tests, shows that cd’s can last for many years if stored properly. Since dvds came out much later, we haven’t had as long a period to test them, but many of us have burned dvds that have lasted 8 years or more now with no issues.

I have the suspicion that cd’s are slightly less prone to data loss than dvds, if only because the techniques used are slightly less complex…dvds use smaller pits and lands in the same size disk, and can have a second data layer. But cds are more susceptible to physical damage if handled improperly, since the data layer is closer to the top. Data in a dvd is sandwiched between two layers of polycarbonate.

But if you are looking for a definitive answer, I don’t think you’ll find one. Just opinions, suspicions and experience with the media.

I’m trying to back up some very important files. I think putting all copies on HDDs is a bad idea, because that would make them vulnerable to the same kind of environments (EM).

I’m trying to find out if CDs or DVDs are formats that can supplement HDDs.

The files that need backing up are not that big, less than 50GB total.

The usual response you’ll get for this scenario is to use different back up strategies. Get an external hard drive, put the data on it and don’t use the hard drive for anything else. Test it periodically to make sure the data is still accessible. Also burn the data to two different types of blank dvds…I’d suggest Taiyo Yuden 8x +R and Verbatim AZO 16x disks. Don’t use double layer dvds for archival use. And you probably already know not to use RW or DVDRam for archival storage.

If you’re going to burn ~50gb of data to cds…at 700mb per disk, you’re looking at 70 disks. Not a convenient storage method for that amount of data.

Which burner is the best for producing DVDs?

I’m looking at the Liteon ihas 124.

anyone?

Yo Goit-

Try this:

I have a couple and they work great-eh

do they have all of the scanning features like the Liteon drives?

yup - if you use codekings version of nero cd-dvd speed 4.7.7.16

Who is it manufactured by?

Is this a rebadged liteon? What is the liteon equivalent for this drive?

[QUOTE=Goit;2575466]Which burner is the best [B]for producing DVDs[/B]?

I’m looking at the Liteon ihas 124.[/QUOTE]

None, but you probably meant “burning DVD”?! Right?

[QUOTE=Goit;2575466]Which burner is the best for producing DVDs?[/QUOTE]
My NEC 3500A is still going strong after all these years.

LiteOns are pretty good too.

Can someone answer my last question?

[QUOTE=Goit;2578980]Can someone answer my last question?[/QUOTE]

Would you read my answer??

[QUOTE=Kerry56;2575465]The usual response you’ll get for this scenario is to use different back up strategies. Get an external hard drive, put the data on it and don’t use the hard drive for anything else. Test it periodically to make sure the data is still accessible. Also burn the data to two different types of blank dvds…I’d suggest Taiyo Yuden 8x +R and Verbatim AZO 16x disks. Don’t use double layer dvds for archival use. And you probably already know not to use RW or DVDRam for archival storage.

If you’re going to burn ~50gb of data to cds…at 700mb per disk, you’re looking at 70 disks. Not a convenient storage method for that amount of data.[/QUOTE]

I can’t find the Taiyo Yuden DVD+R disks. They only have the JVC brand DVD-R disks which they claim to be of Tayio Yuden make.

How are the Sony DVD+R and HP DVD+R or TDK disks at 16x? People only talk about the Verbatim AZO and the Tayio Yudens here.

And is there such a thing as a best CD-R brand?

JVC is the brand that Taiyo Yuden uses in the US. They have their own brand, [I]That’s[/I] for Japan and a few other countries, including Greece for some reason. If you are in the US, you can get unbranded Taiyo Yuden from rima.com, supermediastore.com and meritline.com among other spots.

Sony used to be one of my recommendations for blank media, as their quality was quite good. They manufactured some of their own, and had Daxon making some using their mid codes. Now days, Sony is no different from the other brands, using mid grade CMC or Ritek made disks. TDK has stopped making their own, and also buy from the same sources. CMC, Ritek, and MBI seem to have taken over most of the market.

The reason you don’t get much info on these middle grade disks is that they are inconsistent in quality and not always the same disks under the same brand. You don’t know what you’re going to get, and even if you get the same mid code, they may not burn with the same characteristics in your drives.

Best cdr’s are Taiyo Yuden. Also found at rima, supermediastore and other online shops. You used to be able to buy them locally under the Maxell Pro cd brands, but no longer. Many people like Ritek cds also, but I’m not up to date on which brands they can be found under.

I’ll just burn 2 copies of the Verbatim then.

Taiyo Yuden CD-Rs are available at local stores here. But I’m not sure if they are worth the trouble, because I’m already using HP CD-Rs.

I got a new burner, the Samsung SH 223C. Two completely different designs should be more authoritative when matching rip and burn results.

There is a problem with comparing EAC rips here. The samsung and the sonys have different offsets and are producing different EAC results and MD5 hashes for the output files for about a half of the tracks on each disk. in this case how do I know if both of them are good or both bad?