[QUOTE=Albert;2751065]It depends. I like to have a C1 max less than 100, and C2 total less than 10000. If there are no C2, I usually do not mind.
Some discs are great. Some discs are okay. So the CMC non-AZO are “very good”, while the [B] AZO are only “good”. The quality changes all the time.
They are supposed to be the best, yes. But again, the quality is not always “great”. Sometimes, the quality is only “good”. “Good” is still…good.
A long discussion in English: http://club.myce.com/f77/interpreting-c1-c2-error-scans-75573/
It is hard to explain, but… When reading a CD/DVD/Blu-ray, there will always be some small errors. For CD, C1 are the small errors. C1 errors do not cause a problem unless there are many in one spot.
Total C1: the number of C1 errors your optical drive fixes while reading the whole disc.
Max: Imagine that a CD is divided up into many “blocks”. In each block, some C1 occur. If one block has more errors than any other block, that is where the max (maximum) occurs. So… If one block has 25 C1 errors, and all other blocks have less than (or equal to) 25 C1 errors, then “Max = 25”.
Average: Again, imagine that a CD is divided into many “blocks”. Each block has some errors. Block 1 has 25 errors, block 2 has 23 errors, block 3 has 24 errors, etc. You take the average of those different numbers.
You want average, maximum, and total to be low.
You can test the same CD two times, and the results will be slightly different. Also, sometimes your optical drive will exaggerate. Remember that.
A counterfeit AZO CD will not have “ZE-XXXX”/“ZD-XXXX”. Sometimes, a counterfeit AZO CD will have Verbatim’s ID codes.
Non-AZO discs do not have the Verbatim ID codes or “ZE-XXXX”. If it is not CMC Magnetics or Moser Baer, it is probably fake.
The CD are probably very new (2012? 2013? 2014?). The dates printed in the box are probably when Verbatim updated the reading material.
Those are codes used by CMC Magnetics as a serial number or identification number:
For Verbatim media made by CMC Magnetics:
PAPA means "Plus, AZO Dye"
MAPA means "Minus, AZO Dye"
PAPA means “16x”.
Other CMC Magnetics discs will have similar codes, but will be different dye (MTP, MSP, PTP, etc), or come from different assembly lines (MAP6 instead of MAPA, PAP6 instead of PAPA, etc).
Prodisc, Moser Baer India, and FTI do not use these codes. (But Verbatim media made by those companies will still have ZD-XXXX or ZE-XXXX).
The DVD+R is mediocre. The DVD-R is very good.
It is like C1 and C2; it depends on many things.
You can have many PI Errors… but if you have many PIF (PI Failures), you have a problem.
You will always have some PIF, but too many PIF and your optical drive has to slow down or try again; the optical drive could not easily fix the problem it had reading the disc.
You want maximum PIF to be lower than 8. Maximum PIF lower than 4 is good.
You want average PIF to be lower than 0.50. Average PIF lower than 0.20 is good.
You want total PIF to be very low. Less than 10,000 is very good. Less than 1,000 is excellent.
For a “very good” disc, you do not want big clumps of tall PIF errors. Short/low clumps are OK.
On your MCC 004 (DVD+R), from 2.0 GB to 3.5 GB, PIF are short/low, have a maximum of 2, and is okay.
But from 4.0 GB to 4.5 GB, and from 0 to 1.5 GB, you see PIF clumps that are tall, with a maximum of 7. This is what makes the DVD+R “mediocre” instead of “good”. That means the disc is harder to read. It will probably still be OK.
On the DVD-R (MCC 03RG20), there are no PIF clumps, and the maximum PIF in a single block is 2. That means the disc was easy to read.
By the way: your optical drive is made with a MediaTek chipset/processor. Because of this, it will only show the worst C1 and the worst C2. You can test your CDs, but it does not tell you everything. But do not worry; you will still know if a CD is bad. You will still see many (many many many) C1 and C2 errors.
For DVD, your drive is fine. Your optical drive may be optimistic (it is probably very good at reading discs), but you will still know if a disc is bad.[/QUOTE]
Thank you for your infinite patience !
I understand that itâ€™s more important value C1 max ( blocks ) compared to C1 total value.
Another manufacturer of Verbatim cd ( non-azo ) is Ritek , correct ?
I found another problems in these cds…
in some azo cd I found a metal powder on the surface of the disc…
in one NON-azo cd i found a stain darker in the side writable ( bottom side ) : you can see the attached images of this cd (CMC)
Also in various cd , the edge of the circumference was not perfectly smooth and the jevelcase too: the long side profile war irregular , more sharp and the plastic (jevelcase) is weak/fragile and very flexible (Plastic very very poor )
My oldest jevelcase of superAzo cd is a better quality ( buyed in year 2008 ) than these newest azo cd.
The smell of varnish of these CDs, also remains in the door of the CD player of stereo or PC when i opened it.
I can’t read the production date of these discs:
CMC cd : N112SK29D8051719A2
azo cd (with smell ) :502241MB 11:29
azo cd ( jevelcase , without smell )5012 49 LF 09:59
PAPA 21SK240413401967 and MAPA 18SL25002810 ( i try to read with your outline but i don’t to be able , sorry )
About dvd quality, normally i knew that DVD + R are most accurate and error-free than DVD-R ( more compatible with most dvd players) but mine are the opposite.
About my optical drive made with mediatrek chipset , i use it only for burn cd and dvd…normally i played my dvd with Sony Bluray disc player BDP-S4200 or Playstation 4.
Maybe DVD+R ( mediocre ) can’t readable with a dvd player ?
Can you think that these cds e dvd are a second choice ?
Should I keep or return to the seller?
thank you in advance !!