CD-R dyes: Super AZO vs Metal azo

Mitsubishi’s selling 2 kinds of CD-Rs here in Hong Kong:
Ultra Platinum - uses Super AZO (check by media code), and
Blue Platinum - uses Metal AZO (told by shop keeper)

I used to think those super azoes are superior as they were branded “Ultra”. But I was informed by shop keepers that the “Blue” ones are better as metal azo was used. Price neither gives hint as they are the same. Can anyone tell me which is truly better, or which is better for Data, audio CD, etc?

(I know this topic has been discussed long ago - date back to 2002 - I guess time has changed now :slight_smile: )

Mitsubishi CD-Rs with the good old Metal Azo dye haven’t been sold over here for ages, only Super Azo discs are available still. IMHO, Metal Azo discs are better, if speed is not your main concern that is, since Mitsubishi developed Super Azo for higher speed burning. If you don’t intend to burn at the highest speeds, definitely go for the Metal Azo discs; Super Azo discs are better for high speed burning.

The old Verbatim (Mitsubishi) Metal Azo discs with the dark blue dye are some of the best CD-Rs ever made. I wish they were available here still.

That’s what has been selling in HK, is it the same as “what haven’t been sold for ages”?

They look different than the Verbatim discs we had over here. But more important than the label is the dye itself. If the dye is dark blue (only Metal Azo dye is that dark), they are the same. Super Azo dye is light blue.

Yep, their dye was pretty much darker than Super AZO.
And I just wonder, can long period of storage affects the quality of fresh CD-Rs?
Wanna buy a few packs for storage, as the stock may be running out.

As long as you keep them in a dark and dry place, no. But don’t store them for decades though (I think you get the point).

well, from my Humble experience, both are great… and maybe (Metal Azo) is a little better for audio… i have many CD Audio Backups using both dyes and the old AZO Dye longing to 1997… they’re all WONDERFUL with the least C1 error ever (next to TYuden) and NO C2 errors… but how long can they last?? it has been 6-7 years… guaranteed…and

well, quite agreeing…:bigsmile:

That cd cake thats listed there is a CMC cakbox.

I think this as A- The Plastic Spacers at the top
B- The super generic Open and Close on the top are always on their CDR media here in the states. Its the way i tell if im getting CMC.

Im guess that was made in a CMC plant, probably done under Mistubishis guidelines.

Actually i have a spindle of those mitsubishi’s, a spindle of verbatim datalife plus and the spindles are identical. I have other spindles that have the open/close mold on the top, but these mitsubishi/verbatims are different where the rectange imprint is and the recycle sign is above it.
But if these are made in a CMC factory, then the datalife plus would be too.

Metal Azo with the following MID :

Disc Type = CDR (A+)
Material = Cyanine
Lead In = 97:34:21
Lead Out = 79:59:74
Nominal Capacity = 702.83MB (79m 59s 74f/LBA:359849)
Manufacturer = Mitsubishi Chemicals Corporation

Thx to all of u guys!
I came up to another problem. Almost all the CD-Rs from medium priced to expensive, including Verbatims and the Metal Azo pack I showed above, give a KProbe disc info showing they are CDR (A-). I wonder can this be problem with ASPI?

That’s probable. On the package it reads “Made in Twiwan” (Though in small prints)
But I’d question about the reliability of telling by spindles, can’t it be the case that manufacturers ship discs only and let the local distributor to pack them?

The old metal Azo is brilliant in my old Ricoh MP7200A. However, liteons HATE Metal Azo.

for most new drives, stick with Super Azo

No problem! I’ve got a few old burners to burn them.
Btw, I bought a few packs total 150 discs :bigsmile:
Will buy more!

Well with a few old burners - your luck should be quite high, infact I would think it to be unlucky for you not to acheive some nice burns. Do you have a liteon at least to check the C1/C2 errors?

Oh and burn at 4 - 8x for best results IMO

I burned Metal AZOs (dark blue Verbatim) all the time with no problems with my Lite-on.

I noticed the Verbatim dataLife Plus I have are light blue (Super Azo), but my brother got some Verbatims lately that are not blue at all, but silver. Maybe I should switch to Fujis Are they light blue?

Of course. Got a 812S@832 to scan a disc burned by Yamaha CRW3200E, the results were wonderful, and much lower than Super azo I used previously.

Vanderlow: just don’t give up this easily!!! those Verbatims ur brother got are probably CMC Magnetics’ made… we have lots of them and their clones here in the M.East… i even found some spindles branded Verbatim with “Double Protection” with the “Crystal & Super AZO” Logo on CDs… but actually, cd surface has nothing to do with Crystal Surface (infact it was totally printed with white and red ink!!!) and the AZO Dye was replaced with an AWFUL Phthalocyanine!!!

just try to find the REAL AZO products, or if u can find the Data Life Tayo Yudin Made Verbatims with (Extra Protection Surface) on the spindle, but beware… CMC are using the same spindle box as the TY… but u can tell the difference from the well-known Blurry-Sandy interior circle of the TY CDs…

…which means that they are the Short “-” Strategy Type discs made of Phthalocyanine.
The last digit of Lead In should be between 5 and 9.

Those discs are made by CMC ( 97:26:66 ) using the Phthalocyanine dye.
Typical representatives/manufacturers are Mitsui, RiTEK, CMC etc.

Defenitely, if those are made by TY w their Cyanine,
which is more greenish than those made of Super AZO.