CD/DVD Protection Spray For Inkjet Labels

vbimport

#21

I used Krylon clear acrylic and never had issues with bubbles. I used both the UV-Protected and regular gloss. You may be putting it on too thick. 2-3 thin coats always works best.


#23

Krylon & other spray-paint clears don’t put out a fine mist; they’re intended to get a LOT of material onto the surface, as opposed to providing smooth, even coverage of SMALL surfaces like Nimock’s does. My Wal-Marts don’t carry it any more, but Hobby Lobby & other craft stores do.

I keep an old caulk tube in my garage resting horizontally on a shelf with the tip hanging over the edge. Then I put an old cakebox end liner (a coaster would work just as well) stabbed onto the tip. Then I put my fresh-printed disk on & it’s easy to spray since the can stays upright. The liner prevents spray from sticking to the data side.


#24

ok the adventure begins, i took a couple “coasters” and put an avery matte finish stick on cd label and printed them. using the Patricia Nomick spray from walmart that says it is glossy, i gave the first 1 a couple of light sprays, and i did get some over spray on the data side. the next 1 i put flat on a cardboard box and there was no contaminatrion on the data side. however niether of the disc have a glossy finish, how much spray does it take to get a glossy finish or should i just be happy that they are waterproof
BTW this stuff smells terrible best to use in the garage


#25

You have to get a full wet coat without creating runs to have it actually turn glossy. But if there’s any dust or fingerprints, it’ll fisheye.


#26

wear a face mask and use a well ventilated area, i hand sprayed thousands and thousands of discs, i not have an automated machine with plumbed in extraction which is awesome, but if you need to make do with aerosole cans, beware, it can leave a fine dust over everything in the same room.

best (tried and tested) method for batch spraying is to lay out 50 discs in a square on a flat surface covered in a sheet or paper to protect the surface and at a good distance spray once laft to right, leave 1 minute and re-spray top to bottom making sure the spray is always moving.

for the mass users, there are automated machine available on the market but they are not cheap, generally around the £5000 (GBP) mark.


#27

try clear hairspray/laquer:bigsmile:


#28

I tried the Novick stuff, with iffy results. No matter how well i shake/mix the can, when I spray there is a nice mist, but also a lot of droplets mixed in the sspray. The result is a smooth finnish with a bumpy look. I have tried several disks and have yet to get a smooth looking glossy finish. And after days of not touching it, I decided to try the “wet finger” test, to see how much better the surface actually was compared to the original unprotected print. I was surprised when the ink smeared with the same of handling as the unprotected. Overall, not impressed with the Novick spray…


#29

Sounds like you got a bad can. I’ve never had a problem, and I use it on everything. Matte & Gloss. Did you read the instructions on the can? How far are you holding the nozzle from the disk face?

…and it’s “Nimock”. :wink:


#30

Lol…yeah, I realized later that Novick didn’t look right…There IS a difference between astronauts in diapers and spray lacquer.:wink:
I held the can as close as 6 inches and as far as 14 inches, with exact same result. And as I said, I was surprised when i could still rub the ink the same as with no spray.


#31

I have used Patricia Nomick’s for over three years, and I am satisfied with the results. There is definitely an art to applying it. It has performed very well for me, however, I am a realist: You are not going to get professional returns on a $5 investment… Just my 2 cents…


#32

I just re-read my post, and thought I should seek to clarify. I am very satisfied with the output of my R320 and even more satisfied with my R280 with Claria ink. I am not seeking to enhance the colors or finish in any way. I merely want smudge protection. I handle my discs with care 100% of the time, but the few others with access to my collection are not as careful. The Patricia Nomick’s has served this purpose well without detracting from the quality of the prints in any way. It actually does slightly enhance the colors. I apply one very light coat with no follow-up applications.


#33

[QUOTE=teflonmyk;2180053]I just re-read my post, and thought I should seek to clarify. I am very satisfied with the output of my R320 and even more satisfied with my R280 with Claria ink. I am not seeking to enhance the colors or finish in any way. I merely want smudge protection. I handle my discs with care 100% of the time, but the few others with access to my collection are not as careful. The Patricia Nomick’s has served this purpose well without detracting from the quality of the prints in any way. It actually does slightly enhance the colors. I apply one very light coat with no follow-up applications.[/QUOTE]What CD/DVD blanks do you use? I have a R320 and also a RX680 i have yet to hook up. Is there that much difference with Claria inks?


#34

In my opinion, the Claria inks are more vibrant. I use TY hub printables.


#35

I compared Epson Claria to generic refilled compatible inks and saw no difference in color tone or saturation. I’d add that they were both equally prone to smudging on any media type.


#36

no matter what brand to spray they all smell terrible and the odor stays forever! this is my only concern. is there any deodorizer i can wipe on the disc after spraying it just to minimize the odor?


#37

I’ve had great results using this process:

  1. Print the disc
  2. Apply d_skin disc protector over data side of disc
  3. Spray light coat of Patricia Nomick’s spray (I use matte)
  4. Let dry (use hair dryer if you are in a hurry)
  5. Spray second light coat and let dry
  6. Remove d_skin (which you can reuse many times)

#38

[QUOTE=jatid;2205216]I’ve had great results using this process:

  1. Print the disc
  2. Apply d_skin disc protector over data side of disc
  3. Spray light coat of Patricia Nomick’s spray (I use matte)
  4. Let dry (use hair dryer if you are in a hurry)
  5. Spray second light coat and let dry
  6. Remove d_skin (which you can reuse many times)[/QUOTE]

What is d_skin?


#39

[QUOTE=wahilde;2419470]What is d_skin?[/QUOTE]

Thanks for your reply. I have found that the aggravation of being absolutely sure that the disc has not been damaged and the less-than-satisfactory gloss, makes the process not worth it.
I have discovered Taiyo Yuden Glossy discs (Rima.com) which sells them @50 for $29.99, a much better alternative. The quality of the discs gives me no “bad burns” and the result is awesome- as good as the original.


#40

I read some of the postings on this site, and went ahead and tried a can of Krylon acrylic crystal clear gloss spray on basic matte white CD-Rs, and the result was great. It looked similar to what the Everest 3 can put out, and that is a $5000 piece of machinery.
For best results, spray in light coats, like 2 or 3, until completely covered, with about 15 minutes between coats, let it dry for about a day before handling or testing its scratch proof or water resistant capabilities.:cool:
Taiyo Yuden CDs are good, but are costly, and have the blue bottom, I much prefer the silver bottoms, as the Prodisc diamond CDs have, (about $0.19 each). Prodisc is a good name brand.


#41

i tried 3 different kinds of spray the walmart novacks it was garbage to me as well as 2 other glossy sprays from krylon and a15 year old can of 1310 matte finish , the matte worked great you can spray it on thick the glossy was a mess it almost ruined 3 disc it would not stick to the disc very well and if you spray such a fine mist that it does it looks like a golf ball when your done… i tried the new jvc waterproof disc glossy but they are not watershields and the surface has orange peel from the factory … im sticking to watershields this is too much work…hell they are 60 cents per…