CD burning nightmare

vbimport

#1

Hello, I was recommended to this forum with some problems related to blank CDs that I have been burning over the past year.
Please study my table for the clearest explanation as to what’s happening. It’s really annoying!


#2

Welcome to the forum :slight_smile:

Memorex and Imation don’t always use the best manufacturers for their discs, so quality can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer (Imation/Memorex just stick their names on the discs).

And for RW I would definitely stick to Verbatim.

Afterthought: what speeds were the discs burned at? For audio I prefer 16x.

Just my thoughts, other members will be along soon no doubt. :slight_smile:


#3

[QUOTE=Arachne;2114859]Welcome to the forum :slight_smile:

Memorex and Imation don’t always use the best manufacturers for their discs, so quality can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer (Imation/Memorex just stick their names on the discs).

And for RW I would definitely stick to Verbatim.

Afterthought: what speeds were the discs burned at? For audio I prefer 16x.

Just my thoughts, other members will be along soon no doubt. :)[/QUOTE]


Hey there, thanks for the suggs. I should’ve mentioned this in my O.P.: Cds burned on my (home)Vista machine at slower speeds won’t play on ANY of the players in that chart.

CDs burned at “Fastest” setting in Windows Media Player will play on all players, but the Kenwood bookshelf will still struggle through the first tracks. WEIRD.


#4

None of the disc types you mentioned in your graph strike me as being quality media. The Memowrecks in particular. I’ve had horrible experiences with Memorex in the past and the fact that they don’t source their products from a single company makes buying their CDs a bit of a lottery. Memorex is bottom-of-the-barrel stuff in any case.

If you are in the United States, I would strongly reccommend going down to Wal-Mart and getting a 30 pack spindle of Sony AUDIO CDs.

These should be marked “Made In Japan” and also say “for use with Sony Walkman.”

These discs are made by a highly regarded Japanese company called Taiyo Yuden, who makes top quality products and whos CDs are the best on the market. Not only should they not degrade in any short timeframe, but you might get better compatibility.


#5

[QUOTE=DJCapricorn;2114871]
Hey there, thanks for the suggs. I should’ve mentioned this in my O.P.: Cds burned on my (home)Vista machine at slower speeds won’t play on ANY of the players in that chart.

CDs burned at “Fastest” setting in Windows Media Player will play on all players, but the Kenwood bookshelf will still struggle through the first tracks. WEIRD.[/QUOTE]

Wow, that is indeed strange - first time I ever heard of that on here :eek:

May well be a media quality issue, then.


#6

[QUOTE=Arachne;2114874]Wow, that is indeed strange - first time I ever heard of that on here :eek:

May well be a media quality issue, then.[/QUOTE]

Or perhaps a “2008-HP-Pavilion-CD/DVD-burner” issue?
I just bought it in April! :eek:

Still, it’s ironic that (most of) the Imations continue to play in all above players without a hitch. That’s why I’m suspecting the burner in my new PC.


#7

Something to rule out at once: the burning software has no impact whatsoever on the burning quality or reading compatibility.

Knowing the exact burners and burning speeds would be far more useful than knowing the burning softwares… :wink:

I’m not suprised that some CDR discs burnt at the slowest speeds don’t play well. Modern CDR don’t like very slow burning speeds, contrary to what many misinformed users like to think and post around the net. @8X is a minimum for decent quality, and 12X~24X is most of the time optimal with most burners from the last 2 years and recent CDR media (48X~52X rated).

The discs you use are not of the best quality, but you should get usable discs outof them nonetheless. So your burner is indeed probably the culprit. Use CDSpeed to retrieve the burner info and post it here. :slight_smile: Best CDR burners in my experience are NEC DVDR burners, Plextor CDR or DVDR burners, and recent Samsung DVDR burners.

I’d also recommend Taiyo Yuden CDRs. No need to buy “special for audio” ones though, which are far too expensive. Just try and find some Verbatim “pastels”, they will be Taiyo Yuden CDRs. :slight_smile:


#8

[QUOTE=Francksoy;2114915]

The discs you use are not of the best quality, but you should get usable discs outof them nonetheless. So your burner is indeed probably the culprit. Use CDSpeed to retrieve the burner info and post it here. :slight_smile: Best CDR burners in my experience are NEC DVDR burners, Plextor CDR or DVDR burners, and recent Samsung DVDR burners.

I’d also recommend Taiyo Yuden CDRs. No need to buy “special for audio” ones though, which are far too expensive. Just try and find some Verbatim “pastels”, they will be Taiyo Yuden CDRs. :)[/QUOTE]

What is CDSpeed and how can I use it to analyze the CD/DVD burner on my HP PC? Thanks in advance for your guidance.

I also heard that Sony packages T-Ys - can you tell me what to look for in the Sony section so I know I’m getting genuine T-Ys?

-Cap


#9

[QUOTE=DJCapricorn;2115118]What is CDSpeed and how can I use it to analyze the CD/DVD burner on my HP PC? Thanks in advance for your guidance.

I also heard that Sony packages T-Ys - can you tell me what to look for in the Sony section so I know I’m getting genuine T-Ys?

-Cap[/QUOTE]

You can find CDSpeed here - it’s free. :slight_smile:

Where are you located? If you’re in the US, you’ll find Sony branded TY discs as in SeanW’s post - I had some of these sent to me (I’m in the UK) and they are indeed TY. Also, Fujifilm CDR can be TY, as long as they’re Made in Japan.

If you’re in the UK/Europe, you can find TY discs as Verbatim Pastel or Verbatim Extra Protection CDR (make sure the extra protection ones say Made in Japan though, as they can be made by other manufacturers too).

In fact, just look for any CDRs labelled “Made in Japan” on the packaging.

Just a sidenote: my step-dad is a DJ, and he uses TY discs for all his needs (and the discs do get some abuse, LOL)…they do the job fine, burned at 16x on a Samsung DVD burner. :slight_smile:


#10

Arachne - please see image showing test results, in CDspeed, of one of my Imations from work last year.

Let me know how to interepret the data - specifically severity of “C1” and “C2” type errors.

Thanks.

[QUOTE=Arachne;2115140]You can find CDSpeed here - it’s free. :slight_smile:

Where are you located? If you’re in the US, you’ll find Sony branded TY discs as in SeanW’s post - I had some of these sent to me (I’m in the UK) and they are indeed TY. Also, Fujifilm CDR can be TY, as long as they’re Made in Japan.

cs do get some abuse, LOL)…they do the job fine, burned at 16x on a Samsung DVD burner. :)[/QUOTE]



#11

Those results look quite normal to me, you can also save the graph on here, which would make it easier for us, BTW Memorex usually uses infodisc for CD-RW LOW quality media for sure! the CMC CD-R’s are decent for me, just be careful with the memorex CD-RW


#12

And here is same test run with Memorex CD-R burned on my HP Pavillion Vista PC CD/DVD burner:



#13

Could just be the older players having trouble reading the CD-R’s


#14

Again, refer to my original chart: The older players had no problem with the supposedly(according to Best Buy) “crappy” Imations. It’s just the Memorex CD-RWs(the middle column should read Memorex NOT Sony!! My bad) that they struggle with. and the Memorex CD-Rs that they won’t play at all - regardless of burn speed selected.


#15

[QUOTE=DJCapricorn;2115428]Again, refer to my original chart: The older players had no problem with the supposedly(according to Best Buy) “crappy” Imations. It’s just the Memorex CD-RWs(the middle column should read Memorex NOT Sony!! My bad) that they struggle with. and the Memorex CD-Rs that they won’t play at all - regardless of burn speed selected.[/QUOTE]

Try scanning a CD-RW after erasing it once!


#16

[QUOTE=RCM;2115429]Try scanning a CD-RW after erasing it once![/QUOTE]

First, RCM, here are results of Memorex CD-RW - burned on Vista HP machine - that I will later erase and post here:



#17

Now, RCM: Results of that same CD-RW - erased:

CAN’T ERASE THE DAMN DISC!!

Followed directions to locate “Erase Disc” command but doesn’t exist.


#18

But anyways here is the “benchmark” test of a Memorex CD-RW:



#19

CMC Magnetics CD-Rs are usually good, at least as Verbatim. But maybe your particular batch of Memorex-branded CMC CD-Rs are poor, or your LiteOn drive just doesn’t write them well. In general, don’t trust this brand for use as audio CDs.

Memorex usually uses the cheapest manufacturer for CD-RW. If your CD-RW media is capable of being written faster than 4x, you have cruddy CD-RW and should avoid using it. Actually, even the 4x stuff might not be so good.

LiteOn drives don’t have the best CD writing quality. The A3 series [which is what you have] is seen by some as being only OK at writing, with some people having issues with playback due to high jitter and other factors. The only way to remedy this would be to get an additional drive to write CD-Rs. Other[s] above have recommended good CD writing drives.


#20

:iagree:…following on from what Albert said, I would recommend picking up an NEC/Optiarc for CDR/RW burning duties (newest ones are the 72xx series) - my older NEC/Optiarc 5170S (and even older NEC 4551A) both do a sterling job in that respect. :slight_smile: