Burning advice for Sony DRU-710A?

On my brother’s machine with an NEC +R burner, I used DVDShrink and just did “backup”, then burned those files in Nero 6 on Maxell media and it played on his Panasonic progressive player and my 5+ year old JVC player (surprised me!).

Now, I got this Sony DRU-710A and I figured it’d be a breeze since I’ve done it on his machine. I did the same thing with DVDShrink and Nero on Fuji 8X +R media, and so far I’ve made 3 DVDs that only play in PC DVD drives. I’ve tried 8x and 4x speeds (can’t do 2.4x for some reason, it isn’t listed as a speed in Nero), and I’ve tried encoding the movie with deep analysis in DVDShrink, and just doing “re-author” so the main movie would be burned without any new compression. On the last burn I also tried setting the booktype to DVD-ROM in Nero, still wouldn’t play in 2 tested DVD players.

Can anyone help me out here? I’m really sick of making useless DVDs on this thing. It’s got stock firmware BY02. Is it the media (Fuji 8X), the speed (can’t go below 4X), or does this drive just suck??? And yes, I am burning them as DVD video as shown on various online guides, and they play fine as DVD movies in PC drives.

I had the same problem.
Sony has removed booktype option on the DRU-710A burners firmware.
I load the Lite On SOHW-1633 BS0S Firmware on the sony and now booktype
options now work and are remembered.
Now I have a Lite On SOHW-1633 with BS0S firmware and a Sony face plate.

I got the firmware form http://codeguys.rpc1.org/firmwares.html
I am using the stock firmware for now.

remember the golden rule flashing firmware to another brand and you have no


Thanks Apples, but I just checked the booktype of the first DVD I burned and it shows DVD+R (default), then I checked the last DVD I burned, which I had set the booktype to DVD-ROM in Nero) and indeed it shows up as DVD-ROM. So the booktype hasn’t been removed, works fine.

But, the booktype isn’t the problem because on my brother’s NEC the discs were DVD+R and the booktype was the default DVD+R, and they still played in both his and my players perfectly.

@ JoeyShabadoo
Welcome:). You may want to post a few Kprobe 2.4.2 BLER scans of a good disc and an offending disc scanned at 4x scan speed(the forum standard for comparison). After the scan(about 14 minutes) select the diskette icon on the toolbar before ejecting disc, and save as a .png file. Attach to a post using the ‘manage attachments’ button in the ‘go advanced’ reply window. You can read Interpreting PI/PO error scans to find out what these graphs mean.

@ Apples
Welcome:). Good try on your first post…that is what I would have first guessed with the info given

Thanks for the tip, I ran Kprobe and the results are fairly confusing. Also I didn’t see anywhere to change the speed to 4x or even see which speed it was testing at. Also I read that PI/PO thread and I have no idea what they’re talking about, the only thing I understood was a lot of errors is bad :).

Bad Disk:

Date : 1/5/2005 11:54:29 AM
Model : 1-0-0-0 SONY DVD RW DRU-710A BY02
Disc : DVD+R , YUDEN000T02 [Taiyo Yuden Company Limited]
Speed : Max
ECC blocks sum (PI/PIF) : 8/1
Scanned range : 0 - 2251093
Sampling count : 119832
Errors : 141
PI Max : 237
PI Average : 76.76
PI Total : 1303265
PIF Max : 7
PIF Average : 0.74
PIF Total : 12573

Good Disk:

Date : 1/5/2005 12:24:14 PM
Model : 1-0-0-0 SONY DVD RW DRU-710A BY02
Disc : DVD+R , RICOHJPNR01 [Ricoh Company Limited]
Speed : Max
ECC blocks sum (PI/PIF) : 8/1
Scanned range : 0 - 2286455
Sampling count : 110264
Errors : 2489
PI Max : 1456
PI Average : 433.90
PI Total : 7113772
PIF Max : 209
PIF Average : 160.90
PIF Total : 2636403

The strange thing about those results, is the “good disk” got a lot more errors, but there were no errors until around halfway through the test. The “bad disk” was showing errors throughout but has many less.

Thanks for the help!

@ JoeyShabadoo
You did everything right with the scan and attach/post…good job…but you seem to have your display dpi set too high… right-click on your desktop and go display properties>settings>advanced and set your display to 96dpi. You then should be able to see the speed settings in kprobe. You will have to rescan both discs at 4x scan speed. Sorry for the hassle…looks like both discs are good quality media.

OK, I use 120 dpi since I run in 1600x1200 vid mode. Went back to 96 and it did show up. Now then, at 4X KProbe doesn’t show any errors on either disc, but the graph is much different.

BAD DISK (booktype DVD-ROM):
Date : 1/5/2005 2:50:02 PM
Model : 1-0-0-0 SONY DVD RW DRU-710A BY02
Disc : DVD+R , YUDEN000T02 [Taiyo Yuden Company Limited]
Speed : 4x
ECC blocks sum (PI/PIF) : 8/1
Scanned range : 0 - 2251094
Sampling count : 127167
Errors : 0
PI Max : 153
PI Average : 51.21
PI Total : 850112
PIF Max : 3
PIF Average : 0.22
PIF Total : 3634

GOOD DISK (booktype DVD+R):
Date : 1/5/2005 2:31:03 PM
Model : 1-0-0-0 SONY DVD RW DRU-710A BY02
Disc : DVD+R , RICOHJPNR01 [Ricoh Company Limited]
Speed : 4x
ECC blocks sum (PI/PIF) : 8/1
Scanned range : 0 - 2286428
Sampling count : 129328
Errors : 0
PI Max : 1440
PI Average : 215.70
PI Total : 3635515
PIF Max : 160
PIF Average : 16.02
PIF Total : 269776

Now I"m even more confused about what the problem could be because neither disc came up with errors. Do you guys have any tips on how I can make a successful burn on this drive? My goal is to make a DVD that my player can actually use, and my first and second attempts on my brother’s NEC drive on DVD+R worked great, so I know it’s possible…just maybe not with this drive. My neighbor has a 1 year old Sony burner and all his +R discs play on his Sony player (big surprise!) but not on mine. This is really frustrating, I appreciate all the help!

Again, bad disk picture is first, then good disk:

but the first looks better than the second…

@ JoeyShabadoo
OK now thats better. By the way, you don’t have to post the text version of the kprobe result as all that info is included in the .png graph version.

I would have guessed that the first was playable(with all PIF’s under 4)and the second was a coaster(with the end mountain PIF’s over 4)

I was hoping for better results from this media as you should too. The 710A/1633 is a good burner. I think the best thing to do would be to upgrade your firmware. If you want to stay ‘stock’ and NOT void your warranty, you can try BYX2, which is the latest firmware for your drive. I get my information from the BS0x vs. BS4x vs. CS0x … which is better? thread…you can read it and make your own judgement. Try a few burns and post your results.

OK, I just put that in for people who might not display attachments.

Well all the burns can be read fine in my DVD-ROM and Sony burner, and on my neighbor’s Sony set top player, just not in any other set top player I’ve tried :).

I wanted to update the firmware but I’m still trying to figure out what all this scrambled and unscrambled means and the features of each one (I really would like to use the booktype feature, but on codeguy’s firmware page it doesn’t mention what any of the firmwares have). I’ll check out that thread and see if it sheds some light on my questions.

Thanks for the help, I hope it is just a firmware problem because buying blanks locally to experiment isn’t as cheap as cdrs.

Not sure if this helps you but I am running the BYX2 F/W on my DRU-710 and getting good results with SONY08D1 media. Here is my latest -R burn at 8X.

Thanks for the info, I just updated the firmware on mine to BS41 because some people said it was the best firmware for +R media, and again I got a disc that won’t play in my set top. I didn’t realize Sony drives were actually relabeled inferior drives from another company, so it looks like my only option is to attempt returning it. I don’t really like the idea of having to update firmware all the time depending on what I want to burn.

I appreciate all the help though, appears to be a great forum with some nice people.