I tryed making a copy of a DVD today and It worked flawlessly for the first 15 Min of the movie and then it started pausing and skipping… I dont know what caused this or how to cure it? I used DVDShrink and Nero to make the copy or “backup” of the disk. Any body know what the problem could be?
Bad burn, caused by either the media being bad, or the burner being to blame. Could be as simple as changing burn speeds, could be a firmware issue, or it could just be a crappy burner.
Download Nero CD-DVD Speed and tell us what your burner is, what the media code of the discs are (using CD-DVD Speed), what burn speed you used.
I agree with scoobiedoobie on probable causes.
If you tried multiple burns and it was always in the same spot in the movie then I might suspect too high a bitrate in a high action scene that your player has problems handling. Since this is a copy of a DVD transcoded using dvdshrink and which you didn’t author it is not likely that.
For me, the only time I had it happen was with poor media, a cheap 50 pack 8x rated but every copy burned at that speed paused and skipped at some point in the video which varied with every burn. I lowered the burn to 4x and that solved the problem. I was ready to dump the discs and just tried it after reading this on another forum.
Well the original dvd is brand new not a scratch on it so thats not it, My computer is a Gateway and its 6mo old so I dont think I have a crapy burner and the Disc I used are Office Depot brand 8X DVD-R I dont understand how it can play perfectly for 15-20min and then start scrwing up and skipping… It seems like if it were screwed up it just wouldnt play at all or it would be screwd up the whole time…
I bet that the Office Depot cheapo 8X DVD’s are the problem… I will try the 4X speed and see what happens.
8x Office Depot -R media is Ritek G05, brand of media is completely irrelevant to who actually manufactured the media. It’s made by Ritek, not Office Depot. It’s of varying quality, to make a long story short Ritek has been highly regarded media in the past, but their current media is of questionable quality, Ritek G05 included. Playing fine initially only to have skipping further into the disc is an exact description of a poor burn, whether it be from the media, burner, firmware, burn speed, etc. Ritek media, G05 included, often burns fine, but there have been a number of issues with it as well.
Physical condition of the disc has ZERO to do with its quality, scratches or no scratches. Your computer is a Gateway with the original burner and original firmware that came with it, once again the fact that it’s a Gateway has zero to do with your burner. Chances are it IS a crappy burner, although I can’t tell you unless you tell us what the burner is by using Nero CD-DVD Speed as I suggested earlier. After you tell us what your burner is, we can inform you of the quality of your burner, and what a good firmware version would be to update the burner to.
Mine are unbranded DVD-R 8x rated plain shiny grey/silver tops.
What’s the media code of the discs? What burner do you have?
Ok, I downloaded Nero CD-DVD Speed. now what do I do? what am i looking 4?
What is your drive model, listed on the top? Next to 0:0, 1:0, etc.
[1:0] TSSTcorp CD/DVDW TS-H552B GA02
A Samsung burner, a crappy burner indeed. Many descriptions of ‘piece of crap’ are used to describe the burner .http://www.videohelp.com/dvdwriters.php?DVDnameid=684&Search=Search&list=2#comments
I suggest you ask around or research in the Samsung Forum here for what firmware to upgrade your burner to in order to get the most out of it. Otherwise consider getting a decent burner such as a NEC or Benq for about $40 online. Your discs may be some cause for blame, but you’re burner may give you fits with most media, not just Ritek. A firmware update will certainly help matters, though.
P.S. - HERE is the latest in a long thread on your burner, sounds like the latest FW may be TS10, that would probably be your best choice for a firmware upgrade. Looks like there are alot of people that are not pleased with this burner though, so you may want to do some research on the +'s and -'s of each particular FW, or ask them of their opinion there.
What’s the media code of the discs? What burner do you have?
Media id TYG02
2 Burners… LG4163B Nec ND1300a
I doubt Moonlightman has the same gear or that his discs have the same media code but you never know:)
Like I said those cheap discs work fine but only when burned at the slower 4x when I burn at 8x they pause and skip in my dvp-642 and my 2 Apex players. Hope this works for Moonlightman also with his discs.
DVDInfo Pro reports:
Region information N/A not a DVD-VIDEO
Media code/Manufacturer ID TYG02
Format Capacity Blank Disc
Free Blocks 412352512
Free Capacity 4.38GB(4.71GB)
Book Type DVD-R
Media Type DVD-R
Manufacturer Rated Speed 8.0x 11080KBps
Available Write Descriptor CLV 8.0x 11080KBps
Available Write Descriptor CLV 4.0x 5540KBps
Write Strategy Speed 4.0x 5540KBps
2x Speed OPC beta 08
2x Speed OPC power 0E
2x Write Strategy field 1 11 87 78 80
2x Write Strategy field 2 88 80 00 00 00 00
4x Speed OPC beta 06
4x Speed OPC power 13
4x Write Strategy field 1 0D 10 0E 07
4x Write Strategy field 2 97 07 0D 0B
4x Write Strategy field 3 80 00 00 00
4x Speed OPC beta multi-pulse 06
4x Speed OPC power multi-pulse 18
4x Write Strategy field 4 17 85 78 75
4x Write Strategy field 5 D6 89 A8 92 01 20
4x Write Strategy field 6 10 00 D0 00 00
Data area starting sector 30000h
Linear Density 0.267um/bit
Track Density 0.74um/track
Number of Layers 1
Complete Media Code
00000000 00 6A 00 00 01 40 C1 FD 9E D8 52 00 02 87 0D 10 .j…@…R…
00000010 66 78 80 00 03 54 59 47 30 32 00 00 04 00 00 00 fx…TYG02…
00000020 00 00 00 00 05 AA A2 22 22 20 02 00 06 08 0E 11 …"" …
I didn’t expect you’d also have Ritek G05 (what he has), I just figured I’d try to offer any advice if I could, depending on what media you had. Sounds like your discs are a faked media code of TY media (high quality media), which is very common with generic discs - TY media codes are very commonly faked. I’ve got a NEC 1300 and it’s a good burner, and I’ve heard good things about the LG you have as well. But considering the fact that they are cheapo generics with a fake TY media code, they are obviously not the greatest discs. Burning those at 4x is likely your best course of action, considering the discs.
For your NEC 1300, I would suggest updating to ‘Herrie’s’ last FW for this drive, ‘1.0C Bitsetting Final Test 2’ http://www.herrie.org/. That firmware also allows bitsetting of +R media to -ROM for highest compatibility with standalone DVD players. It’s a very good drive and you should probably be able to get decent results at 4x on it with that firmware. Since you can’t do PI/PIF tests with your drives, I’d suggest doing Transfer Rate tests of your burns using Nero CD-DVD Speed to check for overall burn quality/disc readability. A relatively smooth test with only minor/occasional dips in the read speed indicates a decent burn that will likely play back fine in most standalones. A test with multiple severe dips in read speed or a premature ending to the test indicates a poor quality burn that will likely skip/stutter on playback. You can do a few test burns on both the LG and NEC and run Transfer Rate tests to see what is creating better burns with these discs based on the tests. Updating to the latest and/or best FW for your LG applies as it does with the NEC, it may improve your burning results with the discs if you have not already done an update of the firmware for that drive.
If you’re already aware of this info, ignore .
My apologies Moonlightman if I indulge in some personal comments with scoobiedoobie in your thread your problem seems somehow related to my experience also.
Thanks for those comments. I have herries v1.08 Holiday edition with bitsetting but I didn’t know he had put out a new version. I have had no problems with any of my +R or +RW media and I usually don’t update my firmware unless I need to. So far they all burn to rated speed. I do use the bitsetting with my NEC especially for DVD+RW because one of my Apex players will only play those discs if they are bitset to ROM. With +R I usually do it out of habit rather than necessity since those discs play fine on my DVD players. MY LG4163B is 16x dl although I haven’t yet burned any dl discs $$$ but soon. It bitsets +R automatically but does not do +RW that is why I kept the nec on my system for now. The NEC burns DVD+RW rated at 4x only at 2.4x but I can format them with bitsetting as ROM using DVDInfo pro and then write them on the LG at 4x and they will retain the rom bitsetting.
However obviously bitsetting would be of little value here since we are talking about DVD-R media.
At least I came across a solution that solved the problem for me. Someone posted in another thread on this site recently that slowing down the burn never helps. My own experience and those of others speak differently.
This does relate somewhat to the thread so I don’t think that it’s an issue to comment. As far as varying burn speeds is concerned, there’s a nearly infinite amount of variables on what is the ‘best’ burn speed to use. What burns best at 8x with one burner/firmware/media combination may be completely different with any change in those three combinations. His Ritek G05 may burn better at 8x on your LG but better at 4x on his Samsung. Change his firmware and it may burn better at 8x than at 4x. It will vary depending on burner/firmware/media used. You’ll just have to run tests at different speeds with different media and burners to find out what the best combinations are.
Some people believe that burning any 8x rated media at 4x, for example, will always give you a better burn vs. burning at 8x. VERY often, this is not true. Burners, their firmware, and the media is optimized for burning at its rated speed first and foremost, but this will vary. For example, a hacked firmware might actually be optomized to burn a particular 2.4x rated media better at 8x than 2.4x, in order to increase burn speed and still get decent burn quality. On the other hand, a firmware that has poor or no support for a particular 8x media might burn them horribly at 8x but decently at 2x or 4x, if only because the firmware or burner is crap, or the media itself (as would be the likely case with your generic, fake TY media).