Burned Audio Cd-r's have scratchy lead in

vbimport

#1

Ok, I’ve seen similar problems on here but not this exact one. Recently, when I burn an audio cd on my Mac G5, to a tsstcorp sh -s223L burner using toast, the first 4 minutes or so of the audio is really scratchy and unlistenable and oftentimes my cd player can’t read the first track and I have to skip it. I recently ran out out of the cd-r’s I was using which were Sony’s and had no problem with. I thought I’d cut corners and got some Staple’s cd-r’s and that’s when the problem started. So I got a spindle of Philips cd-r’s and those worked great for the first 10 or so, then today when I went to burn some cd’s I started getting the same problem. Any advice or insight? am I just having bad luck with my cd-r choices? Is my burner dying?


#2

Welcome to the forum :slight_smile:

From your post, I’d agree that maybe you’ve been a bit unlucky - what speed are you burning the discs at? Could be that these other discs need a burn speed change in order to get a decent burn.

Not sure what disc ID programs exist for the Mac, or I’d say can you find out the MID (Manufacturer or Media ID) of the Staples and Philips ones. Maybe somewhere in Toast it’ll tell you?

If not, perhaps someone else can help out with that :slight_smile:


#3

I was using the “best” option, but I adjusted it to 8x, 16x, and 40x all with the same results.


#4

Ah OK, thanks.

Might be an idea to go back to the Sony discs, unless another member has any advice. Or even better, discs manufactured by Taiyo Yuden (look for “Made in Japan” on packaging), although your Sony discs are probably easier to get hold of.

If you still have these issues with another batch of the Sonys, then we can investigate further :slight_smile:


#5

^ Agreed.

And while you still have the other discs, I know of at least two ways I could identify DVD media. Not sure if one or both will work for you, but using Snow Leopard and Toast version 10:

Option 1: Insert one of the troublesome discs. Open “System Profiler” (Applications > Utilities > …). Select the Disc Burning tab. In this tab, it should identify who made the disc, etc.

Alternate way to do option 1: Insert one of the troublesome discs. Open “Disk Utility” (Applications > Utilities > …). Select the optical drive. Select Capabilities: Click for more information. You will end up in the same place as above.

Option 2: While in Toast’s main window, insert one of the troublesome discs. In the menu bar, click Recorder > Disc Information. In there, you should also see some sort of disc ID.

Option 2 may require you instead to go to Recorder > Recorder Settings > [select the tab with the name of the recorder] > Features > Current Profile. This may show the same information; I’m not entirely sure, or it may not be present.

The directions likely change due to differing versions having different layouts, but it should provide you with either an estimated manufacturer, an ATIP (a code typically unique to one particular disc model, presented as 97m:27s:00f or similar), or some similar type of ID. If you need to take a screenshot or post a log of the burns, feel free; the disc ID is likely contained in the logs, too, likely visible within Console (Applications > Utilities > …).

Sorry for the long list of directions that may not work to provide information, but it’s worth a shot. :slight_smile: I only wish I had some media with me for testing, but I have none right now. :doh:


#6

Is this kind of problem commonly due to bad disks? I did the steps above that you illustrated. It didn’t give me any information about the disks. Just a greyed out option to fix it. I’ll see if I can find some sony cd-r’s. any other suggestions?


#7

I don’t have a Mac so I can’t get into that aspect but the easiest way to test is to use some quality discs. If you can’t buy them locally then order some online .
Taiyo Yuden as Arachne posted.
If those turn out scratchy then it is probably your drive .
I doubt if it’s the drive since the problem started when you got the discs you are having the problem with.


#8

Haha, I forgot you had a Mac, Albert - nice one :wink:

Only time I’ve personally experienced the issues in the OP, was when I had audio CDRs with paper labels on (:eek: ) that had begun to deteriorate.

But the telling thing here is that the issues started after the Sony discs ran out. Only way, as mentioned, to rule media in or out would be to get hold of a few more Sonys or other good quality discs.

Thing is with Staples, Philips, and several other brands, is that they can be made by a different manufacturer from batch to batch, some good, some bad. There fore quality can vary even within the same spindle. :wink:

Does anyone know if CD-DVDSpeed (if it can be found via Google somewhere) or Opti Drive Control will work on a Mac? Those will give the required MID info.


#9

I wonder what the chances are that the current batch of Sony CD-R’s out there are from the same manufacturer as the last batch I got about a year and a half ago.


#10

[QUOTE=shrams23;2651030]Is this kind of problem commonly due to bad disks?[/QUOTE]
Too bad yes :frowning:

Most of times, playback issues are due to a bad burn and most of times the cause of the bad burn is a low quality disc.

[QUOTE=shrams23;2651140]I wonder what the chances are that the current batch of Sony CD-R’s out there are from the same manufacturer as the last batch I got about a year and a half ago.[/QUOTE]

Too bad, all recently produced media have not the same quality of discs produced in the “golden age” of optical devices. The best discs ever manufactured were the mythical TYG02: these 8x certified discs was excellent quality (some was also written at 20x without problems), but they are not more available by a long time :doh:

The ones produced recently (if you can still find them), even if still good media, they are anyway inferior compared to 2-3 years ago.

So, if you find a good batch of media, and if you burn many discs, I suggest to grab these ASAP before they are out of stock.

The very best CD available at the moment are Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden (currently sold under the brand JVC [B]made in Japan[/B]).

Regarding audio CD, however, I solved the problem in a very simple way: I replaced CDs with USB pendrives :bigsmile:

Finally prices went down enough to let me purchase also a car stereo with an USB port, so I can put a ton of music in a 8 GB pendrive and listen for my music even in the car :iagree:


#11

@ geno888 , For an even smaller size to USB in the car , I use a USB adabter that holds a micro SD 2GB . It holds a lot of .mp3’s.


#12

If you mean one of these I have it too (it was provided with the micro SDHC card I bought in a store) :bigsmile:


#13

[I’m tenacious, I know. Feel free to ignore me if you desire. :bigsmile:]

There’s still one more way you might be able to find out the ATIP of the other media. Credit goes to a web search for telling me this exists.

Run Terminal (Applications > Utilities …). Once it opens up, type “drutil” (without quotation marks) and hit enter/return. It will display a list of commands you can choose from (or it might display an error about you not telling the program what you want it to do). It should look something like this:


Usage: drutil -drive [drive-arguments] command [command-options-and-arguments]
 drutil commands are:
   atip           Displays ATIP information about inserted CD-R/RW media.
   bulkerase      Bulk erases -RW media in either quick or full mode.
                   drutil bulkerase (quick | full)
   burn           Burns a given file or directory to disc. 
                   drutil burn (burn-options) <path>
   cdtext         Displays CD-Text present on an audio CD.
   discinfo       Displays disc related info when media is present.
   dumpiso        Parses ISO-9660 directory structures. 
                   drutil dumpiso <devnode> <block> [format]
   dumpudf        Parses UDF directory structures. 
                   drutil dumpudf <devnode> <block> [format]
   eject          Ejects media from the drive (if any).
   erase          Erases -RW media in either quick or full mode.
                   drutil erase (quick | full)
   filename       Translates filenames for different filesystems.
                   drutil filename <name>
   getconfig      Displays current and supported device features and profiles.
                   drutil getconfig (current | supported)
   info           Displays detailed information about connected drives.
   list           Lists all connected burning devices.
   poll           Constantly polls and displays device notifications.
   size           Estimates size of a given file or directory.
   status         Displays detailed information about inserted media.
   subchannel     Displays subchannel (MCN, ISRC) info when CD media is present.
   toc            Displays TOC information about inserted CD media.
   trackinfo      Displays track related info when media is present.
   tray           Opens and closes drive tray, and ejects media.
                   drutil tray (open | close | eject)
   version        Display the OS and DiscRecording version numbers.
 (specify drutil help <command> for command specific help)
 (specify drutil help driveselect for drive selection help)

Now that you know drutil exists, type “drutil atip”. Ideally, this will automatically choose the (only?) optical drive with media in it and print out the ATIP information. In my case, with no disc inserted:



 Vendor   Product           Rev 
 MATSHITA DVD-R   UJ-868    KB19

    No media, please insert a CD to read its TOC/ATIP.

And with a pressed CD-ROM (contains audio files for one of my classes):



 Vendor   Product           Rev 
 MATSHITA DVD-R   UJ-868    KB19

    ATIP information can only be read from CD-R/RW media.

…So, if I had a CD-R/RW, I could give you a specific example, but I know that should work. To copy and paste the output, just use your mouse to select the relevant information, and copy (either via right-click or the Command-C keyboard shortcut) and paste it in with your post. :slight_smile:

Using this, you could even guestimate if your Sony CD-R were made with the same materials, though it can’t conclusively say that the same manufacturer did them (Sony has had a number of manufacturers use its technology for its own media, and all the media will display as being made by Sony).

There’s another way to identify who made the media: using codes printed on the CD-R themselves. However, I won’t even go down that road, as the codes are generally hard to read and I have no way of comparing them to known manufacturers at the moment.


#14

[QUOTE=Arachne;2651096]Haha, I forgot you had a Mac, Albert - nice one :wink:

[snip, because Arachne is spot on, so no need to repeat all that]

Does anyone know if CD-DVDSpeed (if it can be found via Google somewhere) or Opti Drive Control will work on a Mac? Those will give the required MID info.[/QUOTE]

It requires some way or another to run Windows, which cannot easily happen on an IBM PPC processor (such as the G5) & the other Apple hardware of that generation.


#15

[QUOTE=Albert;2651164]It requires some way or another to run Windows, which cannot easily happen on an IBM PPC processor (such as the G5) & the other Apple hardware of that generation.[/QUOTE]

Doh! Cheers for the info :flower: (you’ve earned yourself yet another nickname: “Mac-Man” :bigsmile: ).

Regarding the Sony discs, aren’t they made by Lead Data these days? So chances are a new batch would be by the same manufacturer, unless it’s really old stock. :slight_smile:

@shrams23 - if you still have any of the old Sony discs (burned or blank, doesn’t matter), any chance you could post any codes you find around the hub of the disc? Maybe someone like pepst could then identify the manufacturer. Or it might just be easier to just pick some up anyway, hehe.


#16

[QUOTE=Arachne;2651196]Or it might just be easier to just pick some up anyway, hehe.[/QUOTE]At this point, I agree. :iagree:


#17

@ geno888 ,
I’ve had different ones but I like this one
here


#18

Finally got a chance to exchange the Philips cd-r’s for Verbatim, 1st one works great. So, hopefully, problem solved.