Break-in methods for a new 1655 burner?

For a new drive, should i be doing anythign special in order for the drive to burn optimally? Such as limiting the number of burns in the first week, or only burn at 8x etc in the first week?

None of my drives has ever had a break-in time and they all still burn very well.
Thinking more about it, what parts of the drive should need a break-in time in your opinion.
I (and I’m sure many other members here) would be interested to know, why you think DW1655 is different… :slight_smile:

Come on, it’s not a sports car that needs some care in the first 1000 miles.

The closest thing to an engine part is the greased rails on which the OPU moves. You could run a seek test with CD-DVD Speed to make sure the grease is distributed evenly, but in all likelihood it already is.

More importantly, don’t overheat the motor by spinning at full RPMs for hours, and your drive will be fine.

At what time should the grease be replaced? :wink:

And is it lithium grease or the cheapy stuff??

Some guy on this forum was thanking another member for showing him how to work in the drive a while ago, so Ifigured I would ask you guys :slight_smile:

Since a few of you are regulars here, I’ll believe that no break-in time is required!

Well, to tell you the truth, some people have reported in the past that greasing the rails has helped some year+ old LG drives get back in shape, burn quality wise. So, if you have an old drive and feel adventurous, do a few burns, save the quality scans, open it up, grease the rails with Radio Shack’s Precision Oiler, do more burns with the same media, compare the quality scans. You never know, it might work.

Not sure. I looked once, and it was a coating of thick white oil that seemed okay to me. Didn’t look like it was drying up after 1.5 years.

On the serious side, I do take vaseline to the rails every few months. Doesnt make a performance difference but it does make it not so clanky on ejects.

All newer BenQ’s use the “sort-loader” type load mechanism… :wink:
Can’t see what good greasing the rails will do. Besides the PUH slides with plastic on iron, why basically no grease is needed.

We are not talking about greasing the moving plastic tray parts that make noise when the tray opens, but the two metal rods on which the OPU (the lens assembly) moves.

Oh, they are greased very well in all drives, and it does make a difference when you are trying to position things to within a fraction of a micron. The servo mechanism doesn’t like any variation in friction along the rods. In extreme cases, this leads to problems that can interrupt a burn.

Can’t argue about that because I haven’t opend “all drives”… :bigsmile:

I had the access of grease (more then enough) in mind. To rephrase in more correct english; no additional grease needed. :wink:

So it’s probably a bad idea to hold the tray open and spray Wd40 in there huh. :smiley:

LOL! :bigsmile:

I don’t know. It might be fun. Depends on whose drive it is.