I just have a simple question, WHAT IS THE BEST CD-R MEDIA for music, thanks.
It seems to vary so often, but lately I’m having good luck with SONY CD-R’s.
I think it’s still Taiyo Yuden. As long as it doesn’t have a blank surface.
I would recommend printable or branded TY CD-R.
(But on the other hand I don’t trust ANY blank surface CD-R from ANY company, and that such trouble can happen with TY media was not a surprise, as Prodisc and CMC also had similar issues some years ago. TY isn’t godlike either, and can make bad batches from time to time too.
Blank surface DVD are fine though, as DVDs have a sandwich structure.)
SONY is made in several plants and may suffer from consistency issues.
MCC Azo media is now made in India and seems to be not the best choice for stability.
Ritek also suffers from consistency issues, and I don’t like them anyway.
Mitsui/MAM-A is getting worse and worse, as the Dolphin said before.
The next best thing would be CMC, but only really premium quality CMC (hard to find).
Maybe Daxon CD-R could also be a choice, but I haven’t used much of those so I can’t dare to say much about them
Well I’m having doubts incase of printable TY. Seeing the spots on my sony TAIYO YUDEN disc’s.
Now some folks will argue you put that disc in a binder. SO that’s what screwed it up.
Well it’s the only disc in the binder that shows these signs and it’s not even the oldest media !!. Even the unbranded silver TY media is still fine or the Parrot TY media where the top is very sensitive for scratches and stuff.
Disc scans fine so far. But the printing surface looks to be going down fast.
So far I only have a scan if people are interested in the spots on the printing side and I have to some free time on my hands then I will fix some pictures because the scans might give folks wrong idea’s when it comes to decouliring and so.
Ohh and KG evilboy we european folks still can use FUJI media.(made in Germanny)
So far hadn’t had problems with a single disc.Infact error levels are most times better as TY ! (specially the ones burned on higher speeds !)
We can still use the Fuji Made in Germany, but is it also possible to get them these days?
For me the Fuji 52x CD-R Made in Germany have been good but not as good as Plextor branded Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim Super Azo Crystal Made in China.
Here’s a scan:
I wonder why Verbatim is so clearly near or right at the top for DVD media but is not noted for its CD media?
I too dont use or trust those plain silver tops, i have seen discs like that. I would Sugguest TY for CD-rs. My Plextor seems to love burning them.
I can get black and normal version easilly.
BUt watch out spindled media is most times ritek.
Unless you buy the stuff aimed at the profesional market.
How do I tell the Fuji MIGs from the Riteks?
Anything like cakebox color, spacer…?? to tell them from other media?
(Some of the Fujis are MIC and MIHK Prodisc too!)
All european Profesional cd-r’s are supposed to be made in Germany.
THe jewelcased ones will state made in Germany
So no COO means Ritek. Or does some spindled media which is MIG still exist?
If yes, which characteristics do the cakeboxes have?
I tend to use TY, but in the past Ritek-made Maxell CDRs and Prodisc-made Verbies have been good too
Guaranteed MIG spindled media has very easy characteristics.
(FUJI cd-r spindle 100pcs profesional market MIG. I’ve never seen FUJI MIG in consumer spindles. For non po-market only jewelcased and a few slimcased packages that I’ve seen were MIG.)
Verbatim is good but TY is slightly better. With current pricing there’s no reason to go any cheaper. I haven’t had any reports of problems with a TY printable … yet but i served a lot and i wonder what the first problem may be Also i use a cd promo service who use TY printables and has been using them all the time i got their music and i never saw reports of bad/degrading discs.
I consider the Panasonic TYG02 printables i used lower quality than Verbatim & TY TYG02 (esp printable TYG02).
Seeing the spots on my sony TAIYO YUDEN disc’s.
Could be Sony cdr have suffered from a sort of “bad handling” as well?
Those are DVD-R media - not CD-R media.
It’s the only disc in the binder that has these problems !!!
No problems with unbranded TY
No problems with any branded TY including Parrot.
No problems with any other disc’s from any manufacturer including printables !!
No I will be fair let’s say the binder sucks. Then it’s still questions me why only my TY disc’s are showing these signs. Because TY prinable layer sucks and is only good for if you keep it nice in a jewelcase and nothing touches the layer ?.
No problems with bad degrading disc’s.
Check the link to cdrlabs.
So now you seen them.
Offcourse we should put it in the right perspective.
The sony disc is in perfect readable condition. It’s only the printing layer which seems to go down. Which is not a real problem to me as long as the disc works fine.
It’s the only TY printable disc that has these problems problably a bad batch/disc.
However I decided to move some of the other printable TY disc’s in the binder which originally carried the disc with decaying top layer and put the SONY TY printable in the other binder. Just to see what will happen.
For now I’m willing to think it’s a single incident. But who knows. Let’s see what will happen over the next months I’ll keep you folks posted if I encounter new problems.
Still so far none of my TY cd-r’s have become problematice when it comes to playback.
I’m familiar with dolphinius_rex’ and other users from cdrlabs’ problems with TY media. I even see problem reports here from time to time
Personally i put a lot of money in TY media and i take all those reports seriously. However i have no problems with original TY media but i like to be on the forefront and perhaps know what problems may occur and be able to adjust in time. The cdr pics that are linked here http://www.cdrlabs.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=22453 are rediculous. That’s not a real product in any way but damaged discs and it’s not even easy to make them look like this. When i ditch discs i use a scissor and they look like that before i cut them in half. I never even saw any old noname look like that. They’d rot but not flake like that…
Those are DVD-R media - not CD-R media.
Oh well, yeah
Still I wonder whether the CD-Rs really degraded so much or whether they were stored improperly. Unless such flaking happens a lot with TY CD-R, I think this is an isolated incident. Anyway, I’m not really a huge fanboy of shiny silver CD-R.
If you are in the US, I recommend using Fujifilm 48x CD-R which is TY made but Fuji branded. Since it is branded with Fuji logo on light gold color on the label side(kind of metallic surface), you do not have to worry about readability problems rising from silver shiny unbranded oem one.
I have been using Fuji branded MIJ CD-Rs for about a decade and haven’t had any problems yet, but had some problems with Maxell, Memorex, and some other MIT discs.
I assure that Fuji MIJ Cd-R currently and widely sold in the US are good…and its not really expensive…I got mine for $7.99/50pk spindle recently and not hard to find as those MIJ DVD±Rs.
TY CD-Rs are the best you can buy.
But I’d personally go for the coloured discs. Sony, Maxell and Verbatim all offer TY CD-Rs in a range of different colours.
I have to agree with kg_evilboy though. You’d better avoid the silver topped discs as they can easily get scratches and finger prints all over them which will inevitably lead to readability problems.