hi all! first post, so figured it should go in this section
i just bought and installed my very first writter (either CD or DVD writter… LOL… i’m embarrased, yeah…), it’s a BenQ DW1640 unit. since it came with “free” blank DVDs, i strated off burning. i know the media has to be perhaps the cheapest media there is, maybe it was even hand-made by the store who sold me he drive, so i think it’s very likely it’s the crappy media that’s actually giving me the headache. i got 5 of these, have burnt 3 with roxios media thin 8, and the three of them were bad, accorindg to the media thing 8 and as i try to read/copy it’s content. read errors, CRC errors.
the drive itself still has a CD/DVD to NOT read perfectly fine and fast, but AFAIK, the reading system is not the same as the writting system. is there any chance the drive is bad?
i’m gonna buy better quality media tomorow, since there’s a little store right around the corner where i live, i’ll get them there. they have Maxell DVDs, DVD-R to be exact.
i was told this drive likes verbatim blank media. any more suggestions, or would the maxell DVD-R mos likely work PERFECTLY with this drive?
thanx a lot!
hi all! first post, so figured it should go in this section
Hard to say. Assuming that you are in the US, verbatium will always be mcc which it very good. With maxell it kind of depends on what kind you are getting. With the -r, you are more liklly to get maxell media codes (mxl) but there is still a good chance you might get ritek. If it is slower speed rated stuff, it might be older ritek which was ok (not near as good as mxl or mcc) but more recent production ritek has gotten really crappy. Maxell +r is a little safer as you will most liklly get ricohjpnr01 for 4x, maxell002 for 8x (not sure about 16x though). Both ricohjpnr01 and maxell002 are very good medias. Look here
use dvd identifier to read the media code off the disks when you get them to see what you actually got. The media code identifies the true manufacture.
Opps, forgot to mention, most of the maxell media code stuff is made in japan, ritek is made in tiawan so you can tell them apart (maxell has mislabeled this in the past but not too often). The 4x+r are almost always ricohjpnr01 and are made in tiawan.
lol. i am a newbie when it comes to DVDs and DVD writters. i pretty much didn’t understand a thing you said. said in plain english, is maxel good?
BTW, i’m ot in the US, i’m in guatemala, two countries south from the US should i still consider verbatim?
thanx, and sorry, but i really don’t know a thing of DVDs!
after re-reading your post several times, i managed to understand that you state that by getting maxel DVD-R media, i’m likely to get mxl, wich is very good. am i understanding correctly?
if so, i’m on my way on getting that maxel stuff. BTW, i’m pretty certain the DVDs i’m talking about are rated at 8x. judging by your post, that’s looking good, right?
If you can get Verbatim go with those. You’ll have less chance of getting junk. Also check out the BenQ forum at this site. You’ll find plenty of info on your 1640 there. And your 1640 is an EXCELLENT choice for a drive. Feed it good media and you’ll be a happy camper.
thanx, that actually makes me feel better
i ran dvd identifier, and this came up (with th crap-media):
but now, DL Qsuite (some utility of benq), tested the crap media, and it said it was fine to burn to. re burned, and yet another coaster. i’m gonna go get a single blank DVD of a known brand (either verbatim or maxel, whatever i find), and if i get a coaster out of that too, i’m RMAing the drive.
BTW, been thinking, is there anything that might conflict with the burn process? for example, i’m using kaspersky AV and have my system mildly overclocked. COULD this influance?
Your media is for sure JUNK. Get yourself the Verbatims and you should be fine. I to am running Kaspersky and I have a BQ 1620. No trouble with it at all and overclocking shouldn’t bother it either. I’d hold off on doing any RMAing at this time. Make sure you have the latest Firmware for it which can be found over on the BenQ forum. Flash to the latest and see if this helps. Also what type of system are you running? Check your power supply and see what wattage it is. The only fault I’ve seen with the BenQ’s is that they can be a little power hungry. If you have a small P/S, this could cause a bad burn. I personally haven’t heard of many 1640 being RMA’d. There was a rash of 1620’s but not yours. This is why I’m hesitant to say it’s the drive at this time. Let us know what your system is and what your P/S is. On the label of the P/S it should tell you what your wattage is. 300 watts and up, you should be safe. Anything below 300 and it could be questionable. If this doesn’t help, go to the BenQ forum and look up a member by the name of crossg. He has lots of experience with the 1640 and could better guide you with the P/S situation. I’m sure he wouldn’t mind if you PM’d him. He’s a very helpfull guy. But for that matter there are a bunch of people over there that can help too. Let us know and good luck. BTW, if you don’t have it, download the trial of Nero 6 or 7. Which ever their offering now. You hten can do a scan of your disc and see just hoew it’s behaving. If you need further info on this, feel free to PM me.
I forgot about this. Q-Suite is a fine program to use but it can only give you a guesstamit on whether or not the media will burn good for you. It has no clue as to what type of Dye is being used. It’s just a tool to give you an idea of what speeds certain media SHOULD be able to handle but don’t swear by it. It tells me that my Yuden T02 media shouldn’t burn at 16X but many of us have proven that to be wrong. If you look over in the BenQ forum, take a look at the 16 or 12X Dare thread or even the Hall of Fame thread. You’ll see many almost PERFECT 12 and 16X burns with this media.
I agree with Sportfish, get verbatium if possible. If you cannot though, and maxell is what is avalable to you, look for maxell packs that are made in Japan (look on the package for it to be albeled made in japan).
these are the good ones
maxell 4x-r made in japan should be mxlrg02
maxell 8x-r made in japan should be mxlrg03
maxell 8x+r made in japan should be maxell002
These three are good, just make sure they are made in japan
the one exception to the made in japan rule with maxells are the 4x+r
4x+r made in tiawan are most liklly to be ricohjpnr01 which is very good. There is a very small chance it could be ritek but it is almost always ricoh. On videohelp, 65 people have reported getting ricoh, 3 reported getting ritek. I have bought a few dozen packs of various sizes and they have always been ricoh.
Fyi Sportfish, you are more farmiliar with the benq than I am. Do they prefer -r or +r (or both)?
my system was just remodeled, and if i know about something, it’s about general hardware
AMD A64 3000+ @ 2.25GHz
512MB Geil Ultra-X PC4400
Samsung 80GB IDE drive
the PS is an Antec truepower 480W
i’ve been reasearching, and yeah, the media i got ripped off with is the crap of all crap. lots of sites take as a fact that the media ID of these (LONGTEN) is the worst of the worst.
what a coincidence i just came in from getting a new DVD. this time, it’s a maxell DVD+R 8x, made in japan. incredible how expensive these things are here. i wanted to get a DVD-RW in case it WAS the drive, so i could reuse it after RMA. but the cheapest one i found was US$7 PER UNIT of DVD+RW. insane.
i’ll retry in a while, so i’ll post back in a few minutes. i might flip out if it does’t work… that would equate to around $15 of wasted media. but i’m confident it will work now.
BTW, Verbatim isn’t very popular around here, so i couldn’t even find some of them. hope this works well.
EDIT: burning right now. but, WHY IN THE WORLD IS IT BURNING AT 4.8x if both the media and writter support 8x??
sorry bout double post but: IT WORKED!
ah, thank God!
but still, why did it never go beyond 4.8x? why isn’t the drive burning at what it should? media is 8x, drive is 16x, roxio media creator detects max speed for the project at 8x… why did it enver go beyond 4.8x? am i forgetting to set something up?
thanx a lot! you’ve been so so helpful!
BTW, the drive i got was ridata R02 or something…
Good deal, we’re making progress. First off this is what I think of Roxio. :Z Ya :Z IMO it’s a total piece of $hit. Get yourself Nero’s trial version of 6 or 7. Much better software by far. Or even get DVD Shrink and DVD Decrypter which both are freeware. I like free, hows about you? There are tons of tutorials on each in this site that explain in plane human talk on how to use. 2nd which I may have already mentioned is to update your firmware to the latest and greatest. This in itself could correct the problem. Give that a whirl and let us know how it goes. Also if you insist on using Roxio, set your drive speed to 8X not Max. This should help also if this option is available to you. But with updated firmware you should have know problem burning your 8X media at 12X or maybe even 16X.
i have the latest firmware lol. unless it changed since yesterday…
the drive came with nero 6, so i’ll give it a try. will that take care of the problem?
Where exactlly did you see it reporting 4.8x? One possibility is you saw the speed that it reproted during the middle of the burn. 8x burns do not burn at 8x for the entire burn. I think they start at 3.6x or something like that and only reach 8x towards the end of the burn. Next time, time the burn with a watch or clock. If an 8x burn is taking about 8 minutes give or take, then you are properlly burning at 8x. A 16x burn takes about 6 minutes (not twice the speed because it is only 16x towards the end of the burn). If I am not mistaken, that is the fastest dvd will ever be capable of. To go faster you would have to spin the disk faster, and disks can actually explode at higher speeds. When the drive is writing the inner area of the disk near the hub, it is imposible to spin the disk fast enough to burn at 8x. Not even a 16x disk burns at 8x starting out. towards the outer areas of the disk, more linear area of the disk is passing by at the same rpm, so it can be written faster.
fyi I second the recomendation of nero.
If your going to use Nero 6 (which both ripit and I highly recommend) make sure you go to Nero’s site and get ALL of the latest updates. And not that I don’t believe you, what is the number of your firmware???
number? i have the latest one, BSMB…
i have used nero for quite some time, i even have nero 7 lying around somewhere. i got a copy of roxio media creator 8 cause it looked pretty cool and quit usefull. i like it, but i also like nero.
is there a reason of why nero is better than the roxio? it’s just that i like to know as much as i can
I have a few reasons but the most important one is that it kept crashing on me. When you install Nero, I suggest you uninstall Roxio as there has been reports that the two conflict with eachother. Seems to me that InCD and Roxio collide but I’m not positive if that was it. Just kinda rings a bell. Someone else may have some insight on it though.
Not only is nero less buggy, it also produces beter output (quite a while back there was even a test, I think by cd freaks and nero was among the best for dvd compression quality).
One other thing about nero. If you try it, it should have a window open during the process that tells you exactlly what time the burn actually starts and stops. The window stays up after the burn finishes so you know exactly how long the burn process took.