I overlooked that fact poor PSU’s can cause many problems. Write errors, OPC errors etc try in another computer that has a good power supply. If it works well on another computer then you could try disconnecting any extra drives or devices in your computer and try burning if it does work you can leave those devices disconncted until you can get a new PSU if it is the PSU.
Heres the List of good PSU’s and a few bad ones i found on the net via various forums, that had them listed i did not create this list its just a guide though some people may have the bad PSU’s and they may work great but this a pretty good list do as you please. Credit goes to various people who compiled this list.
PC Power & Cooling
Heres another list of good PSU’s. Number 5 is the crap territory keep away.
(some TTGI - Super-Flower, OCZ, EPower/Tagan, RaidMax, Vantec, ACI)
FSP - Fortron Source Power
(Fortron, Sparkle, Cooler Master*, Zalman, Aopen)
CWT - Channel Well Technology
(Antec, Lead Power, Enermax, Xclio, Turbolink)
While these top three encompass more than the re-badges I’ve named, you can usually bet on a solid performer if you pick one of them. It’s highly debatable which are better than others, of course. But all in all, everyone has had pretty good experiences. Not suprisingly, they are priced accordingly. None of them in the 400W range are going to be under $50. If your power supply is one of the above, chances are you can trust both the unit itself and it’s claims on wattage per line.
(Stateside, just the Cooler Master True Power)
Same with these, a bit more esoteric. If you can afford a Sea Sonic these have the best efficiency of any consumer switching PSU for computers. You’ll pay for it up front, but your electric bill will be less in the long run.
(Chieftec, Enlight, ThermalTake, High Power)
HEC - HeroIchi Electronic Co.
AMS - American Media Systems
Here you start finding dissention in the owners. Some claim it’s the best in the world, some wouldn’t let their dog run Windows 3.11 on one. Some of them have great reputations (TT & HEC) but the problem is a “squeaky wheel” one - it’s hard to know just how good/bad things are when only people with problems post.
(Aspire, Logisys, MGE, Ultra X-Connect, Rosewill)
(Coolink, CoolMax, Rosewill, StarTech)
Now we’re into budget territory. Maybe it’s just a quality control issue; some people love them but most hate them, and from bad personal experiences. I personally wouldn’t touch them. They should work, but no one will be suprised if it smokes itself and takes your motherboard with it. They rarely come close to what their ratings state, very poorly constructed. (but usually colors or chrome and UV sleeved and colored Molex’s and LED fans!) These for the most part are toys, although you might get lucky. Not all of them are, but it does take more effort in sifting through them than it’s worth.
(L&C, Deer, Allied, Eagle, CodeGen/Foxconn, EverPower, Maxpower, Q-Tec)
If you believe one of these things will power your computer, I have a 7-band underdash amplifier/equalizer that’s 250W+250W that I’ll sell you for $5. You’ll love it. Really, if you have one of these supplies, don’t mention it to us. Just silently toss it out and buy one in the #1 category.