I have a BenQ 1620 with firmware B7V9. When making a backup with Genie Backup Manager, every disk I inserted received an “unable to write to disk” error (The message may not be exact)
I tried: DataWrite (+), Taiho Yuden (-), Hyundai (+) and Philips (+) and received an error message each time.
By contrast I did the same backup using my Nec1100a which worked perfectly using the Hyundai (not my favourite but…)
Is the BenQ particularly fussy?
Sounds like there is something wrong with your drive as benq writes well to Taiyo Yuden media as well as Philips.
It could be your Power Supply. BenQs are very sensitive about that.
I overlooked that fact poor PSU’s can cause many problems. Write errors, OPC errors etc try in another computer that has a good power supply. If it works well on another computer then you could try disconnecting any extra drives or devices in your computer and try burning if it does work you can leave those devices disconncted until you can get a new PSU if it is the PSU.
Heres the List of good PSU’s and a few bad ones i found on the net via various forums, that had them listed i did not create this list its just a guide though some people may have the bad PSU’s and they may work great but this a pretty good list do as you please. Credit goes to various people who compiled this list.
AMS (Mercury)
Antec
Astec
AOpen
Channel Well
Cooler Master
E-Power
Enermax
Enlight
Fortron Source
HEC
Hi-Power
HiperPower
Jeantech
Mad Dog
NSpire
OCZ
PCMCIS
PC Power & Cooling
PowerMan
Seasonic
SilenX
Sparklepower
Tagan
Thermaltake
TTGI/SuperFlower
Ultra
Verax
Zalman
Xclio
Achieve
Allied
Aspire
Codegen
CoolMax
Cyberzone
DEER
Dragon
Eagle Tech
EYE-T
Greenline
HIPRO
JSP-tech
KingStar
Kingwin
L&C
Linkworld
Okia
Orion
PowerMagic
PowerUp
Powmax
Q-Tec
Raidmax
Rosewill
Silverstone
Skyhawk
Startech
Turbolink
Vantec
Win
Heres another list of good PSU’s. Number 5 is the crap territory keep away.
#1a
Topower
(some TTGI - Super-Flower, OCZ, EPower/Tagan, RaidMax, Vantec, ACI)
#1b
FSP - Fortron Source Power
(Fortron, Sparkle, Cooler Master*, Zalman, Aopen)
#1c
CWT - Channel Well Technology
(Antec, Lead Power, Enermax, Xclio, Turbolink)
While these top three encompass more than the re-badges I’ve named, you can usually bet on a solid performer if you pick one of them. It’s highly debatable which are better than others, of course. But all in all, everyone has had pretty good experiences. Not suprisingly, they are priced accordingly. None of them in the 400W range are going to be under $50. If your power supply is one of the above, chances are you can trust both the unit itself and it’s claims on wattage per line.
#2a
Sea Sonic
#2b
Wintech
(Ultra X-finity)
#2c
Acbel Polytech
(Stateside, just the Cooler Master True Power)
Same with these, a bit more esoteric. If you can afford a Sea Sonic these have the best efficiency of any consumer switching PSU for computers. You’ll pay for it up front, but your electric bill will be less in the long run.
#3a
Sirtec
(Chieftec, Enlight, ThermalTake, High Power)
#3b
HEC - HeroIchi Electronic Co.
(HEC, CompuCase)
#3c
AMS - American Media Systems
(Mercury)
Here you start finding dissention in the owners. Some claim it’s the best in the world, some wouldn’t let their dog run Windows 3.11 on one. Some of them have great reputations (TT & HEC) but the problem is a “squeaky wheel” one - it’s hard to know just how good/bad things are when only people with problems post.
#4a
Youngyear
(Aspire, Logisys, MGE, Ultra X-Connect, Rosewill)
#4b
ATNG
(Coolink, CoolMax, Rosewill, StarTech)
Now we’re into budget territory. Maybe it’s just a quality control issue; some people love them but most hate them, and from bad personal experiences. I personally wouldn’t touch them. They should work, but no one will be suprised if it smokes itself and takes your motherboard with it. They rarely come close to what their ratings state, very poorly constructed. (but usually colors or chrome and UV sleeved and colored Molex’s and LED fans!) These for the most part are toys, although you might get lucky. Not all of them are, but it does take more effort in sifting through them than it’s worth.
#5
UTTER CRAP!
(L&C, Deer, Allied, Eagle, CodeGen/Foxconn, EverPower, Maxpower, Q-Tec)
If you believe one of these things will power your computer, I have a 7-band underdash amplifier/equalizer that’s 250W+250W that I’ll sell you for $5. You’ll love it. Really, if you have one of these supplies, don’t mention it to us. Just silently toss it out and buy one in the #1 category.
Thanks for the very quick and detailed replies.
My PSU is an ENERMAX EG365AX-VE 353W.
My system is:
Win XP Pro with SP2 and all updates
FX5200 graphics
AMD 2500+
80g HD
BenQ 1620
Ricoh MP7120A CD-R/RW
Philips 150V3 Flat screen
1g Crucial Memory
If I thought it was the PSU I would purchase another, but I don’t want to go that route unless I’m pretty sure - I’ve never had a problem so far (fingers crossed).
NVIDIA chipset on the MB? If so, switch back to the MS IDE drivers (if you installed the NVIDIA ones)
Forgive me Qyngali - not sure how to do that. I do know I have NVidia drivers for the graphics card, but not sure how to go about changing.
Forgot to mention the MB is ASUS A7N8X-X
Go into the device manager and right click on the IDE controllers, select properties then go to the driver tab and click on roll back driver than should bring you back to the MS drivers.
Or their shoud be an entry in the add/remove program control panel for the Nvidia chipset drivers uninstall them and that goes back to the MS ones I think (don’t have a NV chipset on hand at the moment to verify).
Now download the latest chipset driver package and when installing untick the boxes for Nvidia IDE driver and that should install the chipset drivers but leave the MS IDE ones in place.
Thanks 8T8 will do as you suggested and post results after re-testing.
add/remove programs -> nvidia drivers -> click on remove only the following, then select the IDE driver below in the list. Click remove.
I had problem with nvidia drivers initially, but it has been fixed since B7T9. I suggest removing the cd drive to conserve power, also, remove 1 stick of ram. If it works, it will confirm you have psu problem.
Thanks again lads
I don’t think the BenQ 1620, in general, is power sensitive. For over 6 months I put the BenQ 1620 retail in my abused PC with only 250W PSU powering 2 ODD, 6 HDD, 2 FDD/ZDD, all 5 PCI/AGP slots, 4 memory slots and many USB pheripherals. And the PC is on 24/7.
I would isolate the problem to the BenQ drive, software/driver and media since they interact each other.
froggie, let us know how does it goes after you remove the NVIDIA driver as suggested by Qyngali and 8T8. If that doesnt help then you can test one of your media (prefer Taiyo Yuden) with Nero CDSpeed “create data disk” and please post the pic here. From the graph (or error message) we can analyze something and go further.<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
HOLY CR@P!!! I don’t even think my power supply would have enough connectors to hookup all those components. And, I suppose you don’t need to invest in exercise equipment. Just lug that thing around a few times, and you’re looking like the Hulk. 
Btw … I’m diggin that supercharger air scoop you got goin there … haha.
ninbang, yes you’re right, this one is very very heavy compare to my other 4 PCs.
That must have been one quality power supply to handle all that, who made it?
Looks like a Dell computer ?
I dont think their is anything special about zevias PSU from the specs nothing stands out as a huge power guzzler e.g no high end graphics cards or high end CPU’s so it can handle the load of the many devices.
@Quakester, Sorry I cannot see the brand. I will look closer if I have a chance.
@8T8, Yes, it’s a Dell Dimension 8100 series, P4 2Ghz. According to JS PSU calculator (http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/), I should get at least 410W. I can only select 4 HDD while I got 6 (need additional 50 watts). Don’t know if the calculator is reliable…
Hey zevia. looks like you could use a couple more case fans as well. Can’t believe that machine doesn’t get hot.
