Barton 2500+ oveclocking capabilities

The norce2 board will smoke the KT6 in speed.I believe Toms hardware has a review showing this.nForce2 boards are about the fastest you can get.Regarding the 5% memory increase.It is more than that I believe.I have run with 512 mg single stick and 512 dual channel and the dual channel is noticeably faster.Price wise it shouldnt be much more for dual sticks versus one stick.I have 1 gig dual channel Crucial memory in mine.nForce2 boards also have some very nice onboard features availible such as dual LAN,firewire,6 USB 2.0,Soundstorm 6 channel audio,Geforce4 video card(must be disabled at 400mhz bus speeds though),on board RAID,Serial ATA(some).They also overclock very well.Newegg has a remanufactured DFI Lanparty Ultra for 75 (new its around 153) I have one of these currently.It is an awesome motherboard.As I have stated before my barton 2500 is at 2520 on this board.I had a MSI k7N2G-ILSR and it overclocked well too but not as well as this one.Newegg also has the MSI refurbished for cheap.

The perfomance increase when using dual-channel is not really that big (although it depends on what application you are running), but the difference between the KT6 and the NF2 in single channel mode is still quite big. In some appliances, differences over 25% have been reported…

If you want to know exactly what the differences are (what applications and ways of measurement), you’d better read some reviews…

If there is noticable difference NForce2 and KT6, then I go for NForce2. The problem is, features packed NForce2 mobos costs almost twice compared to a plain NForce2 mobo. All I wanted is a built-in SATA controller. I don’t need Soundstorm audio, FireWire and etc. I have a RAID controller card with my current PC and plan to transfer it to the new PC.

The plain KT6 mobo has a built in SATA controller. I like MSI because of the red color, realiability and good performance. Is Kingston memory good ? It is quite common in my place.

There’s nothing wrong with Kingston memory. Back when I bought my K7N2G-ILSR board, Kingston memory was the only memory recommended by MSI (stubborn as I am, I bought some cheap PQI mem, still working great).

What you can do, is buy a plain NF2 board and get a loose controller with it. If you go for the Promise FastTrak TX2 plus, you have a very nice card for now and in the future…

If you want to overclock get an Abit nf7-s or the epox 8rda+. For overclocking don’t buy any of the kingston value ram, get the hyperx with BH-5 in them

If you want to overclock get an Abit nf7-s or the epox 8rda+. For overclocking don’t buy any of the kingston value ram, get the hyperx with BH-5 in them

Abit and Epox mobos doesn’t have a lot of features compared to MSI, DFI and Gigabyte mobos.

My friend recommend me to use Kingmax memory. Good performance and cheap. But it is hard to find. Is Kingmax memory good ?

If you want features get an MSI,DFI or Gigabyte but for overclocking the nf7 and 8rda are the best. The features on the NF7 aren’t actually that bad though.
If you aren’t overclocking get whatevers cheapest, but if you are, i would go for some Buffalo pc3200 or Kingston Hyper-X PC3200. Look out to see if they have winbond BH-5 in them because it isn’t guaranteed. If they don’t say if its BH-5 check to see if they list the ram timings. 2-2-2 means BH-5 , 2-3-2 means CH-5

Ive got a barton 2500+, asus A7N8X deluxe, 512 megs of OCZ 2700 dual channel optimized ram. Using a vantec aeroflow cooler i ocd my chip to (11*200) at 1.775 voltage. My idle temp is 43 and load is 51. I hope this helps. I like the A7N8X mobo cause of all the features, but if you want a cheaper one i hear that the Soltek 75FRN2-L is good, it has less features but looks cool (gold), and OCs like a biatch, and has some nice included software. it retails for about 100 cdn. I think it would be the board your looking for.

What you see below is the spec of the machine i will have built by the end of the week. I am looking to OC my processor to at least the equivalent of the 3200+. Can anyone tell me what the board bios settings should be to achieve this. I am told that the Cooler Master 7+ should suffice until i get my water cooling in place.

I used to OC during the P1 days but left that behind after fusing a few chips but my brain now frys when i try to do the math

So if anyone is running a stable 3200+ config from a 2500+ chip then can you let me know


I got my barton 2500+ to 3200+ with a stock heatsink and stock voltage.The settings are 11200 and voltage 1.775V(I think thats what it was).I am now doing an actual 2520 mhz with watercooling and thats 21012 and voltage of 2.000V. With watercooling it runs at 30 degrees idle and about 40-43 when ran full bore for a long time.I have a 5 gallon water resevoir and multiple heater cores.

What board r u running? and what water rig do you have? and finally do you have to change any other settings other than the FSB and voltage?


I am running a DFI Lanparty motherboard(nforce 2 chipset)You have to change the multiplier.Some boards allow this without unlocking the CPU.I unlocked mine with the wire trick where you jumper 2 pins on the cpu to unlock it.My watercooling rig is one I built myself. It consists of a Danger Den Maze 4 waterblock,2 1978 Cadillac Calais heater cores,2 120 mm fans,a via aqua 1300 water pump and a 5 gallon bucket for the resevoir. You can build them much smaller than this but I wanted it to look cool with UV light reactive dye and water lines running outside of the case and also to cool it unbelievably well due to the fact my processor spends most of its time with a 100% CPU load.I wanted to run a peltier unit but I dont see any point in it now.I am running at 2520 like I said it will smoke any CPU out there and even with the water cooling rig of mine was still cheaper. The heater cores were like 15 bux at autozone,around 50 for the waterblock,fans around 10,the via aqua pump for 15.Hope this helps.

all newer bartons are locked

you wont be able to change multiplier

watch out before u buy


Originally posted by helpmehelpu
[B]all newer bartons are locked

you wont be able to change multiplier

watch out before u buy

:frowning: [/B]

You can unlock them all easily. My barton was locked. I used the wire trick to unlock it as its easy and undetectable for warranty as it doesnt physically alter the chip. You just wrap a VERY VERY fine wire around two pins on the chip before you insert it in the socket.Works like a charm

wicked1 you have the recent locked barton ?

can u give me link for that procedure ?

Original Posting:

For those of you that haven’t heard, new Bartons are factory locked, (not even wire tricks work with them.)

We have yet to see visible physical difference in locked chips which not one person has noticed thus far despite posting pics of L1 bridges, etc.

if the new ones are different than sorry as the one I have is about 7-8 months old. The wire trick worked great for me.

Originally posted by Dee-ehn
[B] The downclocked CPU’s are those who are from a lower quality; those CPUs could give troubles when running at higher clockspeeds.


sorry, but this is utterly false. anything that is “downclocked” is purely done so to fill demand for lower speed grades. this has been done as far back as the slot A athlons, the outer cartridge may have been marked as a 700, yet the core itself be a 950. since the pcb that held the core of the slot A’s used SMD resistors to set the multi, and core voltage, it was easy for AMD to clock’em at any lower speed they wished and simply mark the outside with a given speed.

if a core verifies at a given rating and is “downclocked”, its not going to have any problems at all running that verified speed.

guess what…now even the tbreds are super locked

I have bought the above Mobo and some 400MHz memory - I have installed it and it runs at 333 not 400. I have moved to slot 3 as recommended in the manual and checked that it is actually 400 and not 333 but it still runs at 333

Does anyone know where the setting is to move it up to 400