Originally posted by jy88888888
All my coasters were burned at 4x - Is it worth burning at higher speeds or should I just try 1x and 2x?
Im stuck with using my MSI writer and TEAC player so I guess trying other CDs is the only option.
Apart from that, the only other option is trying other burning speeds.
Low speeds are not always better. Maybe MSI didn’t care to tune that drive for low speeds…
8x, 12x, 16x are usually good speeds.
Try other CDRs and players (a discman…) to understand if it’s a problem with the Teac or poor writing quality of the MSI.
- Does the software used play any part in how well the CDs play? Which one do you use minix?
The software shouldn’t make a difference. See the posts by BoSkin in this thread to understand how burning works:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=66814 (search for OPC in the 7th post)
I think that calibration depends only on drive, not software.
I use Feurio: it’s the finest audio burning program and great to detect problems… but your only problem is between writer and CDRs, not software or O.S. (don’t forget to install ASPI 4.60 anyway).
You may try this crazy trick in Feurio CD-Writer -> Info -> Settings -> “Adjust power-calibration manually”:
“Carry out manual power calibration
If this switch is set a â€Power calibrationâ€ command will be sent to the writer before the start of a write process.
The â€Power calibrationâ€ command introduces the CD-Writer to adjust the laser power to the inserted CD-R.
Some CD-Writers automatically carry out a â€Power calibrationâ€ command at the start of a write process, in this case the switch will be deactivated.
Should this switch be activated / deactivated?
Normally this switch should be left alone.
If burned CDs donÂ´t run properly, you can try to change this switch.”
This should produce worse CDRs because calibration may not be done, but…
- When I’m buying CDRs, is it just a case of randomly picking one off the shelf or should I be looking for specialised ones such as ones with high reflectivity.
The problem is that you can’t know what CDRs will have better reflectivity… but that’s the idea: you have try more CDRs. Taiyo Yuden, Verbatim Azo are good CDRs.
If possible, I will be very grateful if you, whoever it may be, provide me with detailed instructions on how you create your audio CDs - I will follow it using CDRs of different brands until it works perfectly. (Instructions for NERO, Roxio, Musicmatch preferable)
Forget about configuration. There’s nothing in the software to change the writing quality (except burning speeds and that crazy option in Feurio).
As I’ve said, you can read the CDRs in the MSI, so the data is there… now you have to burn the “pits” and “lands” in a way that the Teac player is able to read them correctly…