Asus CD writers
How do Asus Cd writers fair when it comes to the latest versions of Safedisc? Specifically the 40 and 48 speed Asus CDRWs. Specific games of interest:FIFA 2003 and MOHAA Spearhead.
Asus CD writers
Yeah CloneCDv4.1 works well with my Asus CDRW 2410A 24x10x40. I have no trouble so far.
ASUS + CloneCD 4016 or 4019 = SD2.8x (no other burner)
ASUS + DiscJuggler = SD2.8x (not limited to ASUS but Lite-On copy starts unusually)
Alcohol or BW = SD2.8x
Does this mean you do not recommend the 4816A?
I have a chance to get one of these. Are there any differences (other than speed) between the older drives you mentioned & this one?
I prefer the 40x over the 48x but love my 5224A. I got a copy of SD2.80.010 with DiscJuggler where CDRInfo couldn’t
What’s wrong with the 4816A, that you seem to prefer the 2 models ‘around’ it? Just looking for specific reasons. Thanks!
quieter, smoother and faster than the 48x at SD2 and LaserLock. Better audio ripping as well
Hrmmmmm… I’m not much for ‘faster’. As long as it CAN do the job the other drives can do, that’s fine by me. I’ll nab this drive. Thanks for your input, FP. Keep up the fantastic work!
ASUS CRW5224 CD-RW review
- Supports 52X (CAV) CD-R and 24X (P-CAV) US-RW writing speeds
- Supports “FlextraLink”, “FlextraSpeed” and DDSSII technologies
- Supports Mt. Rainier format
- Very good US-RW writing performance
- Good writing quality
- Drive is less noisy than others 52X recorders
- Can return C2 error information with very high accuracy!
- Fastest DAE ripping speeds ever measured with pressed discs
- Can rip CDS200 protected Audio discs
- Very good CloneCD reading performance
- Supports DAO-RAW writing and can backup SafeDisc v2.80.010 builds
- Supports reading/writing of SubChannel Data
- Supports CD-Text (reading/writing)
- Supports Overburning (up to 99mins)
- Supports UDMA33 connection interface
- Retail package contains Nero, 52X CD-R, 24X US-RW media at the price of <$120
- Takes too much time during the lead-in area resulting higher burning time
- Average CD error correction capabilities
- Mt. Rainier performance with HS-RW needs improvement
- Drive doesn’t pass EasyWrite test suite tests
- Cannot rip Key2Audio protected Audio discs
- Cannot rip our BAD DAE test disc
The new Asus 52x can be purchased for 125.00 bucks
I’m getting the 4816A for $60. I plan on putting it inside my 3rd PC.
A nice mix of burners, you will have (as Yoda would say it). Try to source a Toshi SD-M1402 (often rebadged as a Guileemot) as it does EC a little better then the 1502 and is not media-picky. I must get myself an LG GCE. Have you had any problems with the 32x? Can it read a .bwa? Can it kill SD2.8x in CloneCD 4016 or 4019?
And since I going way OT, I’ll move this to the Hardware Forum
If your into DVD ripping, encoding (SVCD, VCD, DivX), then definatly go with the LiteON LTD 163/165 models. Toshiba’s are TOO SLOW ripping vobs to the hd. The LiteON LTD 163/165 are excellent dvd-roms for cd protection
Personally, I do not rip DVDs. I only make backups of my PC games. I have not really had any complaints about the LG GCE-8320B drive I have in my wife’s PC. It does it’s job.
I USED TO have the 1402 Toshys in both PCs. I got rid of them as soon as the 1502 hit the scene. I really can’t complain about them. They’ve also done the tasks that I have thrown at them. Now if Olli can just get this Secu-crap spanked, I’ll be back in heaven…
As for bwa files, I have not messed with any. I use Clone & strictly Clone. Since I stumbled upon this software long ago, I have used nothing but. I feel, if I can’t do it with Clone, It’s just not going to happen. I also happen to be one of those lazy b*stards mentioned in one of the other posts. I do NOT like 2, 3 & 4 step solutions. I just want to click, copy, THE END.
I don’t want to use any ‘emulation’ crap. No ‘HIDE-CDR MEDIA’. None of it. I don’t care HOW it works, I just want to be able to pop one of my backups into any old CD-ROM/DVD drive & watch it work just as if I had the original in there. Is that too much to ask?
Happy burning to u all!
Originally posted by Copy Lord
[B]I do NOT like 2, 3 & 4 step solutions. I just want to click, copy, THE END.
I don’t want to use any ‘emulation’ crap. No ‘HIDE-CDR MEDIA’. None of it. I don’t care HOW it works, I just want to be able to pop one of my backups into any old CD-ROM/DVD drive & watch it work just as if I had the original in there. Is that too much to ask? ;)[/B]
Unfortunately, right now, with the latest versions of securom, it is too much to ask as the only available solutions ARE 2, 3 & 4 step solutions and are far from perfect anyway.
You should, however, be grateful that there is even a partial solution since less than a few weeks ago, there was no solution at all.
It may be that a simple one-step no-brainer solution will be found but-
[li]This may never occur.
[/li][li]You’ll have to be patient and use whatever interim solutions may be available in the meantime.
[/li][li]If a simple one-step solution is found, sony, macrovision & co will undoubtedly release a more developed copy protection so that the simple one-step solution doesn’t work on the newest releases anyway.
Whilst I expect some further development of both safedisc and securom to occur in the short to medium term to strengthen the protection, I don’t anticipate any significant changes to securom in particular unless and until someone develops a way of copying it easily so that the copy can itself be copied.
So long as a copy cannot itself be copied, the game manufacturers/distributors couldn’t really give a stuff about first generation copying (whether legally for personal back-up purposes or even the odd pirate copy) since an original is required. For the same reason, they aren’t all that concerned about cracks.
However, what they seek to eliminate (or at least control) is the rampant piracy that can result from second, third and subsequent generation copying and so long as they can prevent that they’re relatively happy.
Indeed, one of the major complaints about blindwrite and twinpeak copies of securom cds is that it usually isn’t possible to copy a copy. However, this is the very thing that the protection is primarily intended to prevent and, given that if you have a working copy you can always put your original away for safekeeping, one might ask rhetorically why there is ever a need (other than in exceptional circumstances) to copy a copy.
After all, if your backup copy is lost, damaged or destroyed, you can always get out your original and make a new back-up (that is assuming you ever actually owned an original ).
Anyway, enough philosophical ranting from me as it’s drifting way off-topic.
LOL! Your “philosophical ranting” was well received. I still plan on sitting here & being patient, while Olli (preferably) gets a simple solution to this Secu-crap problem.
P.S. Now that I have aquired the Asus 4816A, (Will be installing hopefully this evening) I plan on READING the SD2.8 image with my Toshy 1502 onto the harddrive, and burning with the new Asus. Of all the current equipment in my possession, is this the ‘best’ combo?
** I SEEM to already be able to burn SD2.8 with my Tosh & Lite-On combo, (I’ve done Sims: Unleashed & it was readable in the Toshy)**
Originally posted by Copy Lord
Of all the current equipment in my possession, is this the ‘best’ combo?
Best combo for cd protection is the LiteON LTD 163/165& Toshiba SD-M1402 DVD-Rom and a Litey or Asus.
I just bought an Polaroid 48x for a very cheap price and will be testing later this week (Safedisc 2.51). Hopefully after Christmas I can test Safedisc 2.8.x. This burner is a 2 sheep writer and I’m still wondering if the Polaroid 48x is a rebagged Litey?