Are these genuine Taiyo Yuden?

Just received my box of 100 CDR, with all this talk of fake Taiyo Yuden’s I want to be sure I’ve got the genuine article! there are 2 different codes printed on opposite sides of the disc.
80 pg7408

I’ll just refer you to kg_evilboy’s Taiyo Yuden FAQ thread in this forum . The first post should have everything you need to decipher your disks.

Yes, those are legit.
8C669A0001680 should be in the frosted translucent part of the hub, and 80 PG7408 somewhat out of the translucent part.

EDIT: Icy Mt. beat me by a minute!

That’s because I’m following you around the Blank Media Forum and, as you can see from my signature, I push buttons too fast. BTW, you are the TY genius! :bow:

Redirected from here.
Thanks for your info kg, but quit using confuzing and esoteric terms :slight_smile: Yes, I am talking about these codes, my discs have completely ‘frosted’, or translucent hubs; they have a quite different hub code which starts with WH57… and is 13 chrs long, while the mirror band code matches that mentioned by you. The 50 pcs spindle in which they came mentiones ‘Made in Japan’, they have a white rather simple top (might post a picture later). Also they have the Taiyo Yuden MID, and are rated at 52X.
However, I have some doubts about them being genuine, or at least of ‘top quality’. This is because I’ve written one (:)) and got a nasty cluster of C2 errors in the middle, which had about 100 and a max of 15 (this in a good reading…; scan unfortunately unavailable). My writer is an LG 4163 with the VA102 firmware, which could be rather old for them.
What do you think ? I’ll post some more info if there is interest.

Could these be fake TY (or botched batch of real TY) ?

#s on CD
80 PD13387

Nero CD-DVD Speed: Disc Info
Basic Information
Disc type: : CD-R
Manufacturer: : Taiyo Yuden
MID : 97m24s01f
Write speeds: : 4 X - 8 X - 16 X - 24 X - 32 X - 40 X - 48 X
Capacity: : 79:59.73
: 703 MB
Extended Information
Usage : Audio
Disc Status : Empty
Raw Data
0000 - C0 40 98 00 61 18 01 00 4F 3B 49 00 00 00 80 00 - .@…a…O;I…
0010 - 00 80 00 00 00 80 80 00 - …

After reading about TY media as the best media to use
I bought 100 CD pack of these ( being sold as “CD-R TAIYO YUDEN Blank 700MB 48x 100Spindle” by Emgeton )
and their quality seems to be very low.

NERO CD-DVD Speed CD [B]Disc Quality [/B] test pics

NERO CD-DVD Speed [B]Scandisk[/B] pic

There are visible defects in the material:1-3 (sometimes even 15) small holes or bubbles(?) in almost every CD.
If viewed from angle small rainbow circles can be found around the defects and sometimes rainbow spikes stretching towards the outer side of the CD.
And yellow graph areas seem to correspond to the location of bigger defects in media.

Media from other manufacturers burned on the same day are OK, so it should not be a burner problem (LG GCC 4521B fw 1.07, Nero 6 with latest updates)

A short hub code means value line media.
Try getting some A-grade stuff like Verbatim Pastel Disc or Plextor CD-R.
TY CD-Rs are hardly ever faked anymore nowadays, but usually you should get better quality with those discs. If you do scanning try scanning the CD in a LiteOn CD (not LiteOn DVD) burner or a BenQ DVD burner, LGs aren’t good scanners… :wink:


After hearing “TY are best, TY are best” from a lot of ppl I did not expect to get the worst media I’ve ever seen in 7 years…
I will definitely try to get my hands on those A-grades next time.

Well that good old LG might not be the best scanner, but it can read some of my really old and really scratched media without a problem, so I think I will keep it a bit longer :wink:
Good enough for comparing the above linked crap with "standard quality" Prodisc(a bit scratched) or 6+ years old Samsung(Ritek)

It is impossible for a disc to have no C1 errors.
Your drive is incapable of detecting C1 errors correctly. Use a LiteOn or BenQ for scanning.

Is something like WH572E0867360 (13 chars) a long code ? If so, does it attest a Premium line TY CD ?
Are there any other ways to differentiate between the two types ?

Apparently yes.
Value line can be everything: no code, short code, two codes, overstamped code, or even plain one code.


I bought a cakebox (looks like a ty cakebox) of 50 supposed YUDEN000 T02 discs, (dvd+r 8x) from There is no sign, however, of which country it was made in and it has 2 different stickers (basic white print labels you can buy and print with a jetink printer) that advertise it as being Taiyo Yuden.

This over-eagerness to sell itself as a TY disc and the fact that there are bubbly ridges along the sides of the disc, (which neither my fuji ty discs nor verbatim discs had) make me a bit suspicious.

Along the inner ring, it does have an appropriate TG code, but I’m not sure what a “frosted” hub is.

Does anyone know if the media from Newegg is legit? Also, does anyone have a picture showing what a frosted hub is? Thank you!

The DVD-/+Rs do not have the frosted hub. These are only seen whith the CD-Rs.
For further information please read kg_evilboy’s Taiyo Yuden FAQ thread in this forum at
As far as I know there has not been a faking of the codes in the hub.

Thank you. I thought I read things pretty carefully but I guess I missed some things.

Found a nice little program to check CD-R information on blank discs.
You can get it from my blog here.

[quote=RDMS;2116501]Found a nice little program to check CD-R information on blank discs.
You can get it from my blog here.[/quote] That’s a nice little tool - I use it too.

The tool (or any other tool) cannot tell you whether a CD-R uses a [I]faked[/I] ATIP (media code), however, since it can only look at the ATIP and trust the information there.

To determine if a CD-R uses a fake ATIP, you need to physically inspect the disc for serial numbers, hub codes, or whatever properties are known to determine whether a disc is genuinely manufactured by a certain company.

Welcome to CDFreaks! :slight_smile: