Another (I hope the last) question about DWU18A to LDW-812S

vbimport

#1

Hello.

I just bought a Sony DWU18A DVDRW, I wanted to directly buy a Lite-On LDW-812S, but I just couldnt find it here in Argentina (Lite-On DVDRWs dont exist here).

Well now, the first I wanna do to have more media support and burn quality is to ugprade the firmware to the last US0N version.

Questions are:

  1. Will my drive become a REAL Lite-On after the “patch”? (which means… will I be able to use all the lite-on utilities on it (like the OmniPatcher)? will I be able to “patch” it to burn DL discs? etc.

  2. Have anyone done this without any problems at all?

  3. Which firmware should I use? since the one in codeguys.rpc1.org site says (for use with the OmniPatcher). Shoould I use the original from liteonit site? (I know I have to use the flashfix thingie

  4. Last question: Should I just forget patching the shit and use it like it is?

Thanks a lot, and sorry to bother with this thing which I believe you have already answered before…

Thanks a lot.
Epexy.


#2

Hi there! :slight_smile:

1/ Yes. It will become a true LiteOn.

2/ Yes, many people have.

3/ Either method is fine. If you use the official one from the LiteOn website, you’ll have to FlashFix it. In the end, the firmware on our site and the firmware on the LiteOn site are two identical firmwares–the only difference is the flasher that they’re enclosed in–ours is not encrypted, and LiteOn’s is. But it doesn’t matter, as once it’s flashed into your drive, it all becomes the same anyway. If you want to use the optional OmniPatcher (for things like media speed adjustments, autobitsetting, etc.), you’ll have to use the version from my site.

4/ Frankly the firmware that came with your drive, UYS1, sucks. A few people have had good results with it, but for the most part, most people get better results with US0N. I’d recommend US0N. Of course, if UYS1 is working just fine, then I guess there’s not much of a reason to change it…


#3

Qué bien, che! Yo tengo la misma Sony. Ningún problema corriéndola como 832S por dos semanas y hoy voy a probar DL. Hay que felicitar as code65536 y C0deKing por lo que han hecho! (ahora, excusa la bromita que sigue)

Translation:
Another Argentinian is lost! I have the same Sony. No way to make it run as an 832S after two weeks trying and DL is just a dream. I wonder what was in the minds of code65536 y C0deKing! (and this English text is a joke, of course) :bigsmile:


#4

Jejeje… muy buena.

I just wated to tell and thank the codeguys because I just updated the firmware… I got a better kprobe2 result with the crappy Longten disc now.

Will try to burn some DL sh*t when disc are affordable over here.

Thanks a lot for all the hard work.

Epexy


#5

I just finished burning my first DL disk. Came out perfect! I couldn’t believe the Kprobe scan, so I repeated it. I’ll be posting it elsewhere in the forum later this evening.

And, yes, the media is expensive and not worth it for now. I just had to try it, so I had this one disc; and we turned lucky. Meaning, that you have further confirmation that your drive can do great things whenever you are ready.

So, code65536 and C0deKing, kudos, once more.


#6

ektalog, Where did you buy the DL disc, brand, model, code, etc…? and how much?
And also… since you seem to have more experience burning DVDs, which media that you can actually get here in Argentina at a reasonably price are you using ?
I’m about to buy some DVD+R HP 4x Discs that are made by MCM (I think)… are those any good?

Thanks again, epx.


#7

I am relatively new to this…and living in South Florida. I have not tried HP discs yet. However, just in case this helps:

– The +R-DL disk that I burned yesterday is from Verbatim. It came in a package that also included 8 +R and 1 +RW discs. Ten in total. It cost me $30, largely on account of that single DL disc. (It wouldn’t surprise me if this pack showed up in Argentina soon…maybe in broken-up fashion.)

– More importantly, both the +R DL and a +R that I tried from this Verbatim pack are of MCC (Mitsubishi) manufacture. The +R is MCC003, the DL is MKM001 and both worked GREAT. In fact, the +R reflected the best KP scans I’ve seen.

– Another winner, for me, are some Memorex +R x4 that came in packs of 50. They burn VERY cleanly at 8x. These report as “ritekr02” in KP. It would not surprise me if some of these start poping up in SA soon, or are there already. I bought a pack for $40 on sale and, since they are “only” 4x, there may be some more selling off of inventories coming soon.