Alternatives ways to label your discs

vbimport

#1

There are many issues with print-out stickers and lightscribe methods of labeling a disc - impropperly appended stickers (lopsided) can damage the motor of a drive, and I’ve heard that heat from some lasers can actually start to melt a sticker.

And I’ve read of numerous issues with lightscribe discs and their being unreliable media prone to disintegration (if this has been proven otherwise please let me know).

With that said, are there other ways to label a disk? Perhaps some kind of direct ink-to-DVDR method? Maybe some kind of iron-on decal type (not literal iron on mind you)?

Thanks for any advice.


#2

Yes get either the EPSON R200\R300 and print direct to disc…


#3


I normally use these. :iagree:


#4

The Sharpie is “Old Faithful.” The Epson R200 is amazing for quality and price!!! The aftermarket ink is cheap, and, if you are a BIG user, there is CIS…


#5

Thermal ribbon printers are also popular, though expensive to operate.

CLICK


#6

“The Epson R200 is amazing for quality and price”

:iagree: Yes, but the Canon Pixma IP3000/4000/5000 do the same job MUCH faster!
The Epson is king of quality, but I couldn’t stand the snail-like (and VERY noisy) functioning. The Pixmas are better all-around printers IMO.


#7

In canon printer you can remove print head to clean them, but with epson printers you can’t. The official ink from canon is cheaper than epson too.


#8

Are there any others ways? creative ones, possible?


#9

I just bought a 4 color pen pack from Memorex designed to write on DVD/CD media and use those. I’ve tried the full CD/DVD surface labels, and they seem to cause balance issues on DVD’s or the adhesive bubbles or whatever when they get warm, etc. Not only that, they freakin’ smear! OH NO3S!

I even got those Memorex 3-in-1 labels that let you use just that inner-ring thing, and while those worked the best of everything I have tried, there just wasn’t enough room for them to be very useful.

I had high hopes for LightScribe but people don’t seem to happy with that, which is a bummer.

So, after messing with sloppy ink-jet stuff then finally getting smart and using a color laser printer only to realize the adhesive problems and the balance issues put the Kibosh on that, I’m back to simple Permanent Markers.

Yes, being able to write in Black, Blue, Green and Red helps.

My tale of woe.


#10

These work…
And although they probably throw off disc balance slightly, there are a few guys at my office that use this exclusively to label and apply software serial numbers to discs, etc. All discs seem to still be readable…


#11

IMO Labels on CD’s are acceptable. Lables on DVD’s are riskier. However, I have put labels on DVD’s because it’s more kid friendly. What I have found is that if you use one of the applicators that come with the Label kit I have a lot less problems. QS scores before and after I have applied the label decrease. That said, the decrease in QS is not enought to make the disk unreadable (QS orig 95, after 80). Another big consideration with labels is the quality of the label. Cheap labels deteriate more quickly, and ink smears. High Quality Glossy labels last a lot longer, don’t have problems with smearing and effect my QS score a lot less.

So in summary cheap media >>> bad burns, short shelf life
good media >>> great burns, long shelf life
cheap labels >>> lots of problems
good quality labels >>> less problems

IMO, the best choice is sharpie, otherwise if you need a better marking, inkjet printable media is the best option, however, good quality labels with a good applicator are acceptable if the data on it is not critical.


#12

I found labels on CD’s a bad idea. I literally had the adhesive ‘rot’ through the upper surface. Some to the pint of the shiny bit coming off entirely leaving a transparent plastic disc like those used on the bottom of spindles.


#13

“I found labels on CD’s a bad idea. I literally had the adhesive ‘rot’ through the upper surface. Some to the pint of the shiny bit coming off entirely leaving a transparent plastic disc like those used on the bottom of spindles.”

I don’t doubt your experience, as I’ve myself had similar issues with some low-quality CD labels (not always the cheapest ones, BTW :a )

But on the other hand, I still have CDs burnt and labeled in 1997 that still are top-notch… so I think it depends a lot on the quality of the labels.

Heres an actual scan of a SONY 4X CDR (Taiyo Yuden) burnt @4X in a Plextor (don’t remember the model), labeled with a Avery CD-label in 1997…



#14

I wholeheartedly agree. Adds personality to 'em as well, IMHO.


#15

I use an Epson R380 and it works quite well. I also use Lightscribe and an inexpensive thermal printer occasionally.


#16

I have been using mostly JVC/Taiyo Yuden Watershield CDR’s in gloss white and silver.
But I have heard the Falcon Media discs are good. Does anyone here have any experience with printing on them? Are they similar to the TY’s in quality and water resistance?


#17

RWW, I like the Falcon Pearly Silvers as my easy favorite among six other Silver HubPrintables because the reflectivity (satiny sheen?) is the most even. Philips has a nice surface but that inner ring area appears “brushed in the opposite direction” - it’s very nice but the distinction is clear.

On the Pearly’s, not so much because the inner-ring isn’t ‘brushed opposite’. It does yield a faint Rings Of Saturn effect, but I can run small text across it and it’s still perfectly readable from the same angle as all other text. And there’s no Color-Shade difference either.

The Whites are nothing special compared to any other White Hub Printables, but we use Falcons first for the disc quality and projected longevity, and the second for the surface quality.


#18

Thanks Christine. I’ll give them a try.

Robt.


#19

Holy blast from the past in my email box man!


#20

Yes, it’s tough for new users to locate ‘best threads’ for attaching their first messages to…

For RWW, I’d also avoided the Water-Resistant issues because I find this fairly impossible to judge, or to convey.

Some threads on this forum make me spit-laugh, so would a mouthful of orange-juice splatters be a good test of a water-resistant surface’s abilities? After all, it’s citrus with acids in it. That doesn’t seem to be a fair test - I don’t often spit-laugh orange juice onto discs that are laying about - I’ve learned.

Or is water-resistance a measure of dishwasher cycles and low-heat vs hi-heat? Is it simply a holding the disc under a faucet and seeing my white porcelain show bloodied stains as the ink drips off? And how long, and what temps?

Or is it “Water droplet left to dry” versus “Water droplet padded off by laying a towel over it, but not wiping?”

Water resistant surfaces, I think, are less than half-the-story. The ink itself is the one that’s reactionary to the water - not the surface. The surface’s porousness has a lot to do with it, I realize, but 50% 25% 75%?

So, I avoided that. I seldom shower with any of my DVDs, although there have been times I’ve wanted to fling something at Hubby, like one of those ninja-stars. But instead, I’ve learned to double-check those locks on his shackles, and by barring the doors and windows from the outside, I can trap him in the dungeon well enough. I don’t really need water-resistant discs to reign him. That’s why God invented bridles.

And the Dabney Coleman-signature garage-door opening S&M outfit.

Nice slippers, eh, Dab?