832S write fails at 72%

I just recently flashed my liteon sohw 822s burner to 832s because of its dvd-rw capibilities. After i flashed it the burner gave a red light, not blinking, while burning. I assume that is normal, if its not please let me know.

My problem is that my burn doesn’t completing finish while using nero 6.6, the burning problem fails after about 72 percent of burn when using dvd-r. Before i flashed to 832s cg5g my dvd+r where burning good with no error.

MY computer is windows xp sp 2
Hp pavilion a720n
lite-on 822s to lite-on 832 CG5G

THis a cd-dvd speed result even though it didnt finish because of an error

why does it say it was burned with a sony burner instead of a lit-on 832s burner, like listed on system manager.

Welcome to cdfreaks :slight_smile:

Thanks for the PM. Firstly it’s against the forum rules to start a new thread if you haven’t received a reply to an older thread. This is called cross posting. If you want to bump your thread because you have not received a reply then add another post with something like “Any ideas?”, but you would normally not do this until it went of the first index page or was over a day old. If you want to add more information then do so in another post and if you want to change the title, then contact a moderator of the forum and ask him/her to do it for you. Also capitalised text in posts and titles mean you are shouting and should seldom be used, unless you feel you need to shout at us, which I’m sure you don’t at the moment ;).

Okay, now let’s see what we can do about your problem :slight_smile:

The red led while burning is normal. Red for burning, green for reading and yellow/orange for underrun.

The Sony ID placed on -R media is normal and nothing to worry about. There are several posts about this in this forum.

The burning problem could be a number of things. Has your drive ever burned this DVD-R media well before? 2S drives are not the best -R writers. You should stick to +R and use bitsetting if you are backing up movies.

I can see little wrong with that scan, up to the point where it stopped.

Also you could try a reset learn using the [thread=112103]EEPROM Utility v3[/thread]. Backup you EEPROM first and then use the reset learn function. See if this improves your burning of this media. If not I would suggest you find some better quality media and see how that goes…

Thread title edited

“Also you could try a reset learn using the EEPROM Utility v3. Backup you EEPROM first and then use the reset learn function. See if this improves your burning of this media. If not I would suggest you find some better quality media and see how that goes”

Either you or the other moderator says that reseting the learnt media is not recommended and should be used as a last option.

Also with the sacn it says the the quality was at 70% and u said that was good.

THanks i’ll try your other suggestion untill you replie

thank u

I don’t know who would say that. I do it all the time and so does code65536. We always advise after a crossflash, to do a reset learn. As long as you have a backup you can always go back if it doesn’t help.

There is one single red spike that has cause the quality score to drop to 70% which can be ignore. Hopefully someday we will see a better algorythm for the quality score in NS that handles these spikes better ;).

I just reset my learnt media and i will try to burn a dvd-r as soon as i can prolly . Do u think it takes a while for the burner to adjust to its new setting before i get a good burn. Somebody said it , but it was for another drive.

i just burned a dvd+r with dvd decrypter and it was completed succesfully, so i am guessing it is just dvd-r that is having problem.

If i was to be a back-up a ps2 game do u think this would be a good result.

This is the result of the DVD+r, it seems good from the little i know on how to read the result.


THis is the picture of the result
The above is the text one
i made a mistake on the attachment


you should scan @4x with liteons, this is the forum standard and your scan mite not have that spike.

Good catch ako :slight_smile: - I missed that… likekeeny4, the scan will take a bit longer at 4x but the result should be better, however, putting it politely, CMC MAG F01 is not the best media either.

hehe its not very often you miss something COdeKing.

also lifeKenny4 if you do a transfer rate test with cdspeed, preferebly on a drive that is riplocked ie: can read to 16x. a nice read curve will help to dertimin the quality of you (as codeking pointed out) medioka media.

ok i just tried burning the dvd-r with dvd decrypter and like before it didnt burn, but the dvd-r burns well on my friends sony burner.

THis time it stoped at 21% completion

THis is the error

i couldnt find a way to attach the picture in other way because they were too big do i had to use Microsoft word to it.

CODE ANYOTHER OTHER SUGGESTION OR SHOULD I JUST BUY A NEW MEDIA AND TRY THAT OUT

I’d say it has to be the media. Stick with +R for the 832S. I just got some excellent Cyqve discs that weren’t expensive but are very good. Check out this thread:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=144241

so there is really no need for be to have crossed flashed to 832s because of the dvd-rw capibility.

I that dvd-rw were more compatibly with most dvd players

do u think changing the write stragedy would help.

if so can you provide a good write strategy for me to change to.

i have no way of getting a media code for any good dvd-rw disc

thnx for all the responses

Some quality -R media burns okay in the 832S and no, +R with bitsetting set to -ROM is more compatible than -R. I think you would be wasting your time looking for a strategy swap for AE1 but if you have lots of them you could try, but I wouldn’t know which strategy to recommend for that media. You could check the startegy switching sticky thread at the top of this forum. :wink:

btw, don’t confuse -R with -RW. The -RW is the rewritable media and -R in the write once media. Check out the thread I mentioned above and also cdfreaks’ media forum. :wink:

ok, i didnt want want my disc to waste since they came in 25 packs but it seems like i will give it to my friend and by another one. i will the the threads.

A suggestion i have is that maybe i should reflash my drive, sice when i flashed it i was still very new to the bussiness. I didnt click on the recommended twisks and i just patch it with the firmware without changing anything in omnipatcher.

If u say yes, please tell me to without me messing it up and screwing up my drive like i previously did, before i had it fixed.

CG5G doesn’t need any OmniPatcher tweaks, so you did everything correctly :).

One other suggestion. Try CY58 on our site. This is the Sony version for the 832S and is said to work better with -R and +R. I preferred it over CG5G with some of the media I had. :wink:

BTW, CY58 doesn’t need any Omnipatcher patches either. Just flash it straight to the drive…

Edit: Use the Liteon LEDFix version in the packed file.

ok, so what are the difference, is it newer

all i do is flash it without do ang thing, because i already flashed from 822s.

So, Just download and run the .exe

why are there 4 different firmwares, which one should i use