451S-851S-812S@U18A Sony (It works)

vbimport

#1

I have created a patched flasher to allow 451S/851S/812S to change to the Sony DW-U18A. Results have been very good, better than the US05 firmware in my 451S drive.

Appears to be more like a 851S GS0F then a 812S except the ±R/W read speed is now 8x (was 6x). This is great for ripping. I don’t know if DVD-R writes at 8x as it does in the 812S.

There is one down side, but I think the read speed is worth it, the led does not turn red when writing. It’s solid green when writing to RW and flashes green writing to R.

NOTE: Bit setting does not work.

You can download a speedhacked bin file from this site here:
http://codeguys.rpc1.org/firmwares.html


#2

Originally posted by C0deKing
[B]I have created a patched flasher to allow 451S/851S/812S to change to the Sony DW-U18A. Results have been very good, better than the US05 firmware in my 451S drive. Also supports bit setting (have only tried DVD+RW) which why I said 812S can change.

Appears to be more like a 851S GS0F then a 812S except the ±R/W read speed is now 8x (was 6x). This is great for ripping. I don’t know if DVD-R writes at 8x as it does in the 812S.

There is one down side, but I think the read speed is worth it, the led no longer flashes red when writing. It’s solid green when writing to RW and flashes green writing to R.

Is there is somebody who wants to publish this flasher, then let me know where to send it? [/B]

Whoa. This is… interesting. Because attempts to patch stuff like this have failed in the past (work only for very few people and not work for most). Could you upload it to a free host like GeoCities or AngelFire or FortuneCity or whatever floats your boat?

Now, some questions…

  1. Did you patch this? Or did someone else?
  2. If you patched it, tell us more. What did you do, exactly?
  3. If it is someone else, where did you get this? Did they document what they did?

#3

Originally posted by C0deKing
better than the US05 firmware in my 451S drive

Also, most people w/ 451/851 that have trued US05 (and other 812 FWs) can’t get it to work properly at all.

I’m sorry if I sound like that I’m shooting you down. It’s not my intent. It’s just that people have gotten their hopes high up before only to be disappointed, so I’m trying to make sure that they approach this with caution. Nothing personal. :slight_smile:


#4

Originally posted by code65536
Now, some questions…

  1. Did you patch this? Or did someone else?
  2. If you patched it, tell us more. What did you do, exactly?
  3. If it is someone else, where did you get this? Did they document what they did? [/B]
  1. Yes and no. Patched UYS1 with patcher and wrapped it with Polish flasher.
  2. Just has eeprom check removed and some 8x DVD+R added.

As I said before, in this case I think the Sony hardware is LDW-851S and not 812S even though 812S is stated in the firmware. But only the 812S firmware has the ±R/W 8x read.

Most people have had problems with 812S because they have used US0A which does not work and US05 which has strange problems with DVD-R leadin. Also it is import to power of the drive after it has been flash and again after the first write. I also recommend reverting to your original eeprom, if you have it, before flashing with the U18A (UYS1).

At this stage I am only prepared to email it to someone who wants to host it (750KB).

Time and experimentation will tell whether this one works. I have not found any problem myself yet but I will post as soon as I do. I have tried DVD+R, DVD+RW and DVD-R with pretty normal Liteon write results (compared to GSOF).


#5

hello,

please send senden@onlinhome.de

thanks

hagncola


#6

Originally posted by C0deKing
[B]1) Yes and no. Patched UYS1 with patcher and wrapped it with Polish flasher.
2) Just has eeprom check removed and some 8x DVD+R added.

As I said before, in this case I think the Sony hardware is LDW-851S and not 812S even though 812S is stated in the firmware. But only the 812S firmware has the ±R/W 8x read.

Most people have had problems with 812S because they have used US0A which does not work and US05 which has strange problems with DVD-R leadin. Also it is import to power of the drive after it has been flash and again after the first write. I also recommend reverting to your original eeprom, if you have it, before flashing with the U18A (UYS1).

At this stage I am only prepared to email it to someone who wants to host it (750KB).

Time and experimentation will tell whether this one works. I have not found any problem myself yet but I will post as soon as I do. I have tried DVD+R, DVD+RW and DVD-R with pretty normal Liteon write results (compared to GSOF). [/B]

Check you PM.

Interesting. So, if all you did was patch the UYS1 firmware and enclosed it in a flasher, would it be possible for me to just load the .BIN using LtnFW (rebooting afterwards, of course) and skip using the flasher all together?


#7

Originally posted by code65536
[B]Check you PM.

Interesting. So, if all you did was patch the UYS1 firmware and enclosed it in a flasher, would it be possible for me to just load the .BIN using LtnFW (rebooting afterwards, of course) and skip using the flasher all together? [/B]

I don’t think the Polish flasher does anything special so I would say yes, as long as the bin file has been patched.

You can get the unpatched bin file from here:
http://dhc014.rpc1.org/indexOEM.htm

I also recommend a full power off, not just a reboot; and also after the first write.


#8

Originally posted by C0deKing
[B]I don’t think the Polish flasher does anything special so I would say yes, as long as the bin file has been patched.

You can get the unpatched bin file from here:
http://dhc014.rpc1.org/indexOEM.htm

I also recommend a full power off, not just a reboot; and also after the first write. [/B]

And am I correct in guessing that the only patching that’s done to the UYS1 firmware itself is the removal of the EEPROM check? Or have other modifications been made? (I haven’t gotten a copy of the patched FW yet, so I can’t do a comparison)


#9

Originally posted by code65536
And am I correct in guessing that the only patching that’s done to the UYS1 firmware itself is the removal of the EEPROM check? Or have other modifications been made? (I haven’t gotten a copy of the patched FW yet, so I can’t do a comparison)

Yes and two media patches (but you know all about that). The LDW851FP utility works.


#10

Originally posted by C0deKing
Yes and two media patches (but you know all about that). The LDW851FP utility works.

You anticipated what I was going to say next. I was about to ask if this was essentially applying the LDW851FP patch to a UYS1 encapsulated in a XFlash flasher.

I did the exact same thing some time ago w/ the 812S firmwares–just disabled the EEPROM check using LDW851FP and loaded it. Made a nice reader, but couldn’t write anything. :slight_smile: So I’m a little skeptical of this. But you said that doing this with the OEM FW would work better, so I guess I’ll give it a try.


#11

Originally posted by code65536
I did the exact same thing some time ago w/ the 812S firmwares–just disabled the EEPROM check using LDW851FP and loaded it. Made a nice reader, but couldn’t write anything. :slight_smile: So I’m a little skeptical of this. But you said that doing this with the OEM FW would work better, so I guess I’ll give it a try.

The first time I went to 812S using US0A I had the same problem. I had to restore eeprom to fix. Second time I went to US05 and did the de-power trick and it worked but first write would not read until a second de-power and them it was fine from there, except for the delayed DVD-R leadin write. Luckily I have the drive in a USB housing so it is easy for me to depower without a reboot. I use Verbatim 4x DVD+RW for the first write.

US0A will not acknowledge blank DVD-R media but writes fine to DVD+R and DVD+RW media after following the same above procedure.


#12

If people want to try this out…

  1. Download the BIN from here…

*Edit: link removed… reason? Because the resources are around for you to do this yourself… 1) download UYS1 from dhc014.rpc1.org 2) Remove the EEPROM check using the EEPROM Check Remover tool found on my website 3) bitsetting-hack it using my automated tool 4) speedhack it using my automatd tool 5) auto-BS hack it using my automated tool

*Edit2: For people wanting to use 451S@U18A or 851S@U18A (not for those wanting 812S@U18A), go here… (the 51S@U18A version there posted has bitsetting fixed, so it works) (look for the GSU1 firmware, which is the UYS1, but specially modified for 451S/851S)
http://codeguys.rpc1.org/firmwares.html

  1. Load the BIN with LtnFW. Check Update Bootcode.
  2. Reboot.
  3. C0deKing also suggests that you do a full power down and restart after the first burn.

Although there is no direct EEPROM modification involved in the process, it may still be worthwhile to back it up, just in case.

Edit: New stuff added below…
The UYS1 FW has been reported to solve some write quality issues with the 451/851. So if you have write quality issues, you may want to consider trying out this FW. This FW will give you 8x +R regardless of which burner you have (451/851/812), but it will give you 8x -R only if your burner was originally an 812S. 8x -R on the 451/851 with this firmware does not work; you’ll have to use 4x for your -R.

Edit: Ignore the stuff below…
I tried to do something similar to this with 812S firmware a while back. It was not successful. But C0deKing believes that because this is UYS1, the results will be different… I haven’t had a chance yet to test this out, but if you’re curious, you could read about my little experiment with this on the 812 firmware in this thread:
http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90810

code65536 crosses his fingers and hopes that this experiment with UYS1 will turn out better than his experiment with US0A


#13

Originally posted by code65536
[B]If people want to try this out…

  1. Download the BIN from here…
    http://members.fortunecity.com/code65536/uys1.html
  2. Load the BIN with LtnFW. Check Update Bootcode.
  3. Reboot.
  4. C0deKing also suggests that you do a full power down and restart after the first burn.

[/B]

I also recommend a full power off before the first write. So 3) should be shut down the computer and then power on. And definitely take a copy of the eeprom and reload it if you cannot get the write to work.


#14

Hi could you sent it to me
overloade@internode.on.net

Thanks in advance!!


#15

Originally posted by leisure
[B]Hi could you sent it to me
overloade@internode.on.net

Thanks in advance!! [/B]

Loading the .BIN using LtnFW with Boot Code enabled will have the same effect as running the patched XFlash version, except you won’t have to download as much data, and you can just download it off a website instead of waiting for e-mail. :slight_smile: Well, if you’re impatient like me… :slight_smile:


#16

Test results…

Test #1: Read & write CD-RW.
Status: Passed. CD-RW disc was readable on my other drive.

(reboot)

Test #2: Read & write DVD+RW (packet-writing w/ InCD).
Status: Passed. Copied some data over, and the data copied over read fine on my other computer. Considering that when I tried this w/ 812S’s US0A, it wouldn’t even begin to write to DVD media (much less write it in a way that my laptop could read it), this is encouraging…

(reboot)

Test #3: Write a RITEKG04 at 8x, first with simulation and then the real thing.
Status: Partial Pass. Simulation, burn, verification, complete. However, the burn was done at only 4x instead of the hoped-for 8x.

(reboot)

Test #4: Retry test #3 without the simulation to see if 8x works on -R.
Status: Stuck at 1% (lead-in) (disc did not coaster, though… turns out it never even started the lead-in, so the disc was still good afterwards… whew!)
Test #4a: Retry #4, with 4x -R
Status: Passed.

Test #5: Write a RICOHJPNR01 at 8x, with bitsetting.
Status: Partial Pass… write quality was worse than 451@851 GS0F (similar to 451@851 GS0C), and like the other 812S firmwares, bitsetting FAILED… BookType said that it worked, but the burnd disc was not properly bitset

Conclusions: If you do lot of +R writing, I’d stick with 451@851 GS0F. If you do lots of -R writing UYS1 does seem to have better write quality (at least in this VERY limited test scenario) than the other 451 or 851 FWs


#17

Originally posted by code65536
[B]Test results…

Test #3: Write a RITEKG04 at 8x, first with simulation and then the real thing.
Status: Partial Pass. Simulation, burn, verification, complete. However, the burn was done at only 4x. During simulation, it tried to spin up to 8x, but failed. During the actual burn that immediately followed, it did not even try the spinup.

The DW-U18A is advertised as a 8x4x4x2x drive. So I doubt that 8x DVD-r is possible but knowing Sony this may come in a later update. The gain is the faster read speed and better quality writes.


#18

451@U18A, UYS1, 4x burn on RITEKG04 (purchased from Newegg’s California warehouse in January) (only 2.53 GB burned)



#19

Originally posted by C0deKing
The DW-U18A is advertised as a 8x4x4x2x drive. So I doubt that 8x DVD-r is possible but knowing Sony this may come in a later update. The gain is the faster read speed and better quality writes.

But both Smart-Burn and Nero say that this can burn at 8x. So I’m gonna try to squeeze that out of it, if it’s at all possible. :slight_smile:


#20

Originally posted by code65536
451@U18A, UYS1, 4x burn on RITEKG04 (purchased from Newegg’s California warehouse in January) (only 2.53 GB burned)

If you don’t mind me asking; Newegg’s; what did they charge you for freight. Also can you provide a link to their site for the DVDs. Thanks…