4 down, none to go... 100% failure



:a :a :a :a :a
or should that be:
:sad: :sad: :sad: :sad: :sad:

The last of my BenQ 1620s is dead. It started a few days ago when it refused to read a certain CD. And today it failed in burning a DVD half way through. The next attempt stalled at the end during the lead out phase, and the next stalled before the burning has even begun.

The only DVD it successfully burned was full of errors. PO erros left, right, and centre. PI errors us in the 800s, jitter up in the 100s.

OK, so it was cheap media (Datawrite DVD-R Titanium CMC MAG AE1, and Datawrite printable DVD+R MCC003) but neither my NEC3540 or LG4163 have problems with these, and cheap media is not reason enough to completely die!

Anyway, this brings to 100% the filure rate I have experience with the BenQ 1620. It’s a shame as it was a good burner, producing excellent quality burns. So what should I do… replace it with a 1640, try a Pioneer, Lite On, or other make?

I’m going to be doing oodles of burning in the run up to Christmas, so I do need a reliable, fast burner, and one that can cope with the cheaper media. I’m not talking Tuffdisc, Bulkpaq, Hyundai cheapness, or fake MIDs, but the stuff that retails for around £5-£6 from SVP, UKDVDR etc.

1640 owners - how much better is the 164o than the 1620?



Sorry to hear that Legs2sag.

A little better. But as you probably know that a working 1620 is already an excellent drive so…


I need convincing (I don’t think I need much)…

I read through the forum regularly and don’t recall seeing any reports of dead 1640s, and dead 1620s are scarce these days. So maybe BenQ is getting better at QA…


Right, I had settled on a Philips 1628 as a replacement, having toyed with the idea of LiteOn (is there ANY ife in the LiteOn forum, or is everybody there a zombie?). But UI’ve just tweaked mysystem a little, removing a 160GB SATA and replacing with a 120GB PATA drive (long story, don’t ask)…

Anyway, I thought I’d give the 1620 a final shot… The moment the Lead In started to write, the drive died completely. No life… no lights, no power, nothing. Windows wouldn’t shut down, BIOS didn’t detect it.

So, I checked the IDE and power cables. Everything was fine. Out of interest, I swapped around the power cables (with 3 DVDs and 2 HDDs, I needed a power splitter). Well, suddenly the BenQ started to work again. I flashed with the latest firmware and it it completed the burn with no problems and produced one of the best scans I’ve ever seen!

WOW. I am feeling happy again. My BenQ is, for the time being, alive again. but I’ll get one of those Philips drive for a back up. At £24 + delivery + VAT I’m sorely tempted.



If you already havent you might want to invest in a good quality PSU like one of Zalmans or OCZ as there have known to be some similar issues that some folks have solved with a better quality PSU.


A new PSU is certainly someting that has been on my mind recently. I have a 400W PSU at the moment which I believe should be enough. But the problem is that there aren’t enough connectors for all my devices, hence the need for a y-splitters.

I’m not really happy using splitters. My understanding of rudimentary electrics is pathetic, but doesn’t a splitter result in a paralled circuit? The connectors directly from the PSU in serial, yes? And isn’t serial better than parallel? Serial gets the whole voltage, whereas parallel is split proportinally according to the resistance of whatever device is being supplied with power?

Anyway, if the BenQ wasn’t being given enough power, that could account for the problems, couldn’t it?

I’ll definitely have a look at those supplies.



All devices, no matter if you have several connectors on one single cable or several cables are connected in parallel. The longer the cable and the more connectors used on one cable, the larger the voltage loss.
The problem with splitters is that you have a small voltage loss because of the connection resistance of the cheap molex connectors. So you should not cascade these splitters.
An outpowered supply might cause power spikes because it might not be able to supply the drawn current fast enough.


Maybe you should consider a better power supply. There is a lot of false advertising when it comes to actual power output. With power supplies, usually you get what you pay for, meaning, less expensive equals poorer performing power supply.

If you are looking for the “Cadillac” of power supplies, consider PC Power & Cooling. It may cost more but the quality and warranty are outstanding. I’ve got their Turbo Cool 510 ATX-PFC Deluxe. It has tweakable voltage pots, all cabling sleeved and it is rock steady. Absolutely no problems powering AMD 64 3200, MSI Neo2 Platinum, 2X512 OCZ PC3200 EL Dual Ch. Platinum Rev. 2, 2 PATA harddrives (PS has connectors for SATA), 2 DVD burners, 4 120mm case fans connected to a Thermaltake Hardcano 13, floppy drive, and a BFG GeForce 6800 Ultra AGP that requires TWO different PS cables (ie Not same cable that has uses splitter). And I’m going to add a SATA drive soon.

Here is a selection of links I used (therefore a little older) when making my decision on power supplies:



Keep looking, the problems with 1640s are different.