Replacing the drive in an LVW-5007 - with photos

I replaced the failing drive in my LVW-5007 with a Sony DRU-V204A (a Sony-branded version of the Sony-Optiarc AD-7200A). This technique should also work on the LVW-5005XS and the LVW-5104, which use the same chassis, though I have not seen those models in person.

My goal was to avoid making changes to the chassis, so I cut away part of the drive's case so that it would slide in place. I think that's unavoidable anyway with these units, as the slim height makes the space around the front panel very tight.

1) Remove the front bezel from the old drive while it's still hooked up - you'll need to open the tray. You don't need to touch the screws on the bezel extension - just slide it off right at the drive tray. Also, remove the front panel from the chassis, so you can see what you're doing when you install the new drive.

2) Take the new drive over to your computer and play a region-encoded DVD, so that the region is set in the drive's firmware. (You can still make it region-free in the player's firmware.) I used the drive firmware that came with it, 1.60, but you could also go here for modified firmware that adds bitsetting capabilities for DVD+R media.

3) Then take the new drive and remove the covers, so you can work on it without getting any metal chips inside the drive. (If you haven't done this before, first you remove the bezel, then the front panel, which clips in, and then the four screws on the bottom cover.)

4) Trim away about 1/2" on the top and sides of the drive case, and 3/4" on the bottom. Check the following photos for a guide on where to cut. I used a "nibbler" tool, which was a bit time-consuming; a Dremel tool or other cutter might be faster.

5) Clip the leads that stick out on the bottom board, from the tray-open switch (S411 on this board), so that they won't contact the chassis. (See the third photo.) Also trim the plastic post that's sticking out right behind the switch. I didn't bother to cover any of this with an insulating sheet, because there's plenty of clearance around this board once the drive is installed.

6) Widen the little slots in the front of the drive tray so that the original 5007 bezel will snap on. (See the first photo below.) Just line up the bezel with the drive tray and you'll see where to cut.

7) Trim the plastic on the right front of the drive structure, so that the front panel snap will be able to go through. (See the second photo below, in the area just to the right of the drive tray.)

8) Reassemble the drive case, but do not install its front cover or bezel. I took the little spring clip from the old drive and used it over one screw on the bottom to ensure that the drive is grounded.

9) I had to use some tape to hold down the wires in the chassis that run underneath the front of the drive. This drive doesn't have a lot of clearance there, even with the covers trimmed down.

10) Slide the new drive into the chassis. It must go all the way in and touch the front of the case, or the drawer won't close all the way with the bezel on. Notice how the drive fits in -- see the second photo above and the photos below.

11) I used filament strapping tape to secure the drive to the chassis and keep it from moving around. You could probably cobble up something to strap it down with the mounting holes that the old drive used, but I didn't bother.

12) I added a couple of washers to space the drive a little lower (see the second photo below). Otherwise the drawer bezel didn't close flat. (It's still not quite right, and I think I'll try some additional washers when I have a chance.) I glued the washers in to be sure they wouldn't move around.

13) It's a good idea to try out the drive before you put the bezel, front panel, and cover back on. Just remember to unplug the unit before you work on it -- the power supply is always live when it's plugged in!!

Good luck!